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Best Sheffield Wall for Training? (Read 8533 times)

clgladiator

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Best Sheffield Wall for Training?
September 14, 2009, 11:55:42 pm
Im about to start at sheffield uni and want to take this opportunity to get strong! I was wondering which is the better wall for training both bouldering and routes, the works or the foundry.

I know the foundry has their 40 degree training board and lead walls, but the works has the systems board. Im leaning towards the works due to the systems board after reading the moon training articles.

Just wondered what the more knowledgeable people on here thought!

slackline

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#1 Re: Best Sheffield Wall for Training?
September 15, 2009, 12:20:42 am
Well The Works has circuits for working endurance but no roped climbing at all so you won't be able to get big swooping falls when you miss a clip.

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#2 Re: Best Sheffield Wall for Training?
September 15, 2009, 06:39:56 am

Tommy

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#3 Re: Best Sheffield Wall for Training?
September 15, 2009, 08:17:38 am
Broomgrove rd, all the way!!

Brick edges, cool as ice, sheltered from rain, doesn't cost a penny and way, way better than Edge, Works, Foundry, Matrix etc.  ;)

I would have said Crewe Flats if they still existed. What's good enough for Steve Mac is good enough for me.

tomtom

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#4 Re: Best Sheffield Wall for Training?
September 15, 2009, 09:00:09 am
You have plenty of choice and at least 3 years there - so just try them all and see which one you like the most!!

shark

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#5 Re: Best Sheffield Wall for Training?
September 15, 2009, 11:50:10 pm
Im about to start at sheffield uni and want to take this opportunity to get strong! I was wondering which is the better wall for training both bouldering and routes, the works or the foundry.


As a student you may discover that cost becomes a bigger priority in which case the Matrix will be the venue of choice. You can use what is available at most venues to meet your training needs with a bit of imagination.

Krank

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#6 Re: Best Sheffield Wall for Training?
September 16, 2009, 12:18:28 am
Shirley, any self respecting student needs one of these  ::)

Monolith

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#7 Re: Best Sheffield Wall for Training?
September 16, 2009, 12:58:38 am
Krank is on the money I reckon. If you go to the Works there will be a man called a Dense Loner who will prevent you from getting inside any of the mono's at any hour of any given day and hence you'll remain a punter forever. Best make your own ;)

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#8 Re: Best Sheffield Wall for Training?
September 16, 2009, 02:41:21 pm
foundry is only £4.50 for students. and unlike the matrix you won't get weaker climbing there

slackline

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#9 Re: Best Sheffield Wall for Training?
September 16, 2009, 02:58:14 pm
How about this for a novel idea?

You take advantage of Sheffield's close proximity to tons and tons of real rock and go outdoors for the cost of getting to the crag  :shrug:

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#10 Re: Best Sheffield Wall for Training?
September 16, 2009, 07:57:42 pm
How about this for a novel idea?

You take advantage of Sheffield's close proximity to tons and tons of real rock and go outdoors for the cost of getting to the crag  :shrug:

What is this 'outside' you speak of? I think students should get down to some of the best walls in the country

lagerstarfish

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#11 Re: Best Sheffield Wall for Training?
September 16, 2009, 10:55:04 pm
go outdoors

FFS Slackers! He said he wanted to get strong, not enjoy himself  :rtfm:

clgladiator

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#12 Re: Best Sheffield Wall for Training?
September 16, 2009, 11:13:22 pm
go outdoors

FFS Slackers! He said he wanted to get strong, not enjoy himself  :rtfm:

I'd love to be able to train outdoors, looks like a bit of a trek though? What with the only stuff that stays dry being the limestone (is this right?)

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#13 Re: Best Sheffield Wall for Training?
September 16, 2009, 11:24:31 pm
I'd love to be able to train outdoors, looks like a bit of a trek though? What with the only stuff that stays dry being the limestone (is this right?)

Yes that's right. The grit takes about a week to dry out, which is a shame cos it's the best stuff for getting strong. Limestone is for foot-faggots with technique. Strength is a waste of time on Limestone, but at least it's totally dry over the Winter, as it's not prone to seepage at all. Not like the Grit.

Now swap everything I said, for the opposite, and you'll be close to the mark.

lagerstarfish

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#14 Re: Best Sheffield Wall for Training?
September 16, 2009, 11:26:06 pm
You are right. Although there are plenty of hours of good bouldering weather most months; if you want to keep to a strict schedule, you will have to either crawl around under small bits of lime or go indoors.


clgladiator

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#15 Re: Best Sheffield Wall for Training?
September 16, 2009, 11:59:05 pm
guess im gonna have to hop on my bike  :o then and go try out the walls from a training point of view though my sad training tendancies are leaning me towards the works and that lovely looking systems board. Im sure my elbows and fingers wont thank me though, thats if i make it through freshers without becoming morbidly obese  :pissed:

lagerstarfish

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#16 Re: Best Sheffield Wall for Training?
September 17, 2009, 12:09:27 am
leaning me towards the works .... morbidly obese 

They still let me in The Works when I was* obese, so even fresher's week shouldn't stop you.


*Jasper thinks I still am

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#17 Re: Best Sheffield Wall for Training?
September 25, 2009, 01:44:53 am
If you have a bike, it takes 45min to get to stanage from hunter's bar. That's what I used to do when I was a student (head torch comes in handy for winter). I now live 10mins ride from Bell Hagg, but find the 20 min ride to the works more inspiring. Sorry if this post reeks of smug self righteousness. :-[

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#18 Re: Best Sheffield Wall for Training?
September 25, 2009, 06:44:18 am
Make sure you set off early in the morning to get to Stanage

dobbin

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#19 Re: Best Sheffield Wall for Training?
September 25, 2009, 09:23:53 am
And you only need to take a karrimat with you (so as to avoid wind resistance)

butters

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#20 Re: Best Sheffield Wall for Training?
September 25, 2009, 10:01:02 am
Make sure you set off early in the morning to get to Stanage

Any particular time you have in mind there Dylan or is it proportional to the grade of the problem that you are trying?  ;)

dobbin

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#21 Re: Best Sheffield Wall for Training?
September 25, 2009, 12:46:14 pm
The earlier the better afaik, just as long as you get there well before theres enough light for you to be visible to the naked eye

SA Chris

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#22 Re: Best Sheffield Wall for Training?
September 25, 2009, 01:21:04 pm
And make sure you have a passing Spaniard to spot you, or was it a Spaniel?

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#23 Re: Best Sheffield Wall for Training?
September 25, 2009, 01:22:07 pm
I've heard that Spaniards have good night vision.

dobbin

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#24 Re: Best Sheffield Wall for Training?
September 28, 2009, 08:23:09 am
Yes, but they cannot use a computer to back you up, so what point them even being there?

 

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