[Lund]

Yo experts,

Forgive me if this is answered somewhere else - I've checked out the web, checked out the pulley injury section etc. - and I don't think it's been mentioned somewhere else.  Feel free to point me at a dupe question and demand that I chip off with extreme prejudice if I'm just incompetent at searching. 

I have another yet another finger question.  Yes, I'm afraid so.

Location: Left hand, PIP (the first knuckle on the actual finger) joint.  Symptoms: mild swelling, soreness and slightly restricted flexion - takes real effort to bend it so that the tip touches the palm as near as the base of the finger as it will go, with slight pain (but I'm tough so I can take it).  No noticeable pain when climbing.  Swelling and pain reduces over a couple of days of rest, or avoiding the system board.

I'm currently training two days on, one off - doing crimp training but open hand on the system board on day one, then lock off training on the campus board on the phat rungs so as to not train the fingers on day 2.  Warming up relatively thoroughly, but avoiding doing anything too hard (< V6) as part of a warm up pyramid.  The swelling and flexion improves after day 2 - the fat rungs don't hurt it - and over the rest day, but then recurs when I hit the board again the next day.

In a couple of weeks, need to switch phases and go back to the campus board in earnest - none of this fat rung malarky - before taper and rest and then a font trip.

Key questions for you legends then are:
- Do you think the swelling is just caused by minor irritation of the PIP joint?  Or is it more likely to be a partial tear of the A3 (is that the current part?) pulley?  What about a sprain of said ligaments?
- If so, should I just man up?  Or is there something else I should do - embarq on a programme of icing it perhaps?
- What are the chances that in a couple of weeks when I begin campussing again that I'm going to hear a pop and then have to put my feet up until Christmas?  Should I back off the training and accept that 7c is not going to happen?

Any help and advice much appreciated.  If it were possible to supply beer tokens through the forums, than I would.  As it's not, I guess just my undying admiration will have to suffice. 

Cheers guys

[Fultonius]

Ram that hand in a bucket of ice for 30 mins a day. It might do nothing, but it won't do any harm!

I don't think it'll be the A3. (it could be) but the fact it has limited ROM and pain sounds more like a joint.

I think you maybe just need more rest. (2 on 1 off, 2 on 2 off perhaps?)

Or just take a solid week out. It probably won't affect your success on your font projects but you're fingers may feel better.

Alternatively MTFU and wait for the impending injuries....

[GCW]

Could be a few things- collaterals, volar plate, extensor hood, joint itself.  I would agree A3 is unlikely.

My advice?  I bet you can guess.....

[Lund]

Thought I'd post an update, as it might help if others find this and want to know a "solution".

A bit more research indicated that it was probably a ligament sprain or a joint issue.  I'm pretty sure it's due to a ramp-up in the amount of training, and is an over-use type symptom of that rather than anything more severe.

Buddy taped the middle and ring fingers together for every training session for a fortnight, but didn't change the exercise in any other way.  It still swelled up, but went back down more quickly post session.  I'm now taping the finger on it's own (rather than buddy taping) as a just in case option.  The symptoms have disappeared.

Hurrah!  Perhaps careful management has won out - maybe it's just luck or maybe it would have sorted itself out on it's own, who knows.

[pppat]

I agree with fultonius.

It can be very difficult to diagnose finger injuries but most will repond to cold water treatment.

Also sounds like you need a week off to recover but what do I know.

Good luck.