[Johnny Brown]

the stand-up is in the new stanage guide - E3 6c or summat. Billiard buttress area.

what did he get you this year

a new problem, via the need to burn his sorry ass :twisted: Git some!

[Bubba]

Don't buy route guides - what's it in as? Help the Young?

[Percy B]

I was trying the sit down without the break, standing on a little spike on the arete with a bad toe hook high on the left wall. This way felt fully like 8a to me and the other guys trying it! I haven't tried using the break but it shouldn't make it that much easier, if at all. So, maybe Stanage has a new quality 8a at last - the Peak needs a few new eights! About time something go the correct grade for a change..................nice one Johnny

[Johnny Brown]

yeah right foot on the little spike as soon as your ass is off the ground - the break is just used to get your right hand on. i agree that ain't the hard bit anyway

[a dense loner]

strange turn of events, u normally put your ass on a little spike, n with the bransby present???? :wink:

[Bubba]

So, Monsieur Brown - shall I put it in as an 8a, or as a 7c+ - your choice....

[Johnny Brown]

bollox to it, 8a it is then.

should generate some interest - "it's there to be downgraded" :wink:

[Bubba]

Ok, it's in the database at a mighty V11.

[Stu Littlefair]

Hurray! A new 8a to play on. I'll see if I can track down Rupert and we'll soon have it down to 7b+...

[Percy B]

The only thing coming down will be your pants, Stu! I doubt even you will be able to give this one such a fierce down grading!

[c.j.d.]

hello ladies, how' the rash?  Came up to play from wales on monday, bloody cold.  I got my arse kicked, but young pretender Dave Noden nearly did the arete from a sitter very quickly.  Messrs Harris, Welford, Katz (who also got a whoopin'),and Dave all thought about V8+ish from a stander with a slightly tricky move to get etablished on your foot (*in the pocket) from a sitter, and then your off.  Stiff 7c+?  On the whole, very very tasty seems to be the consensus

[Johnny Brown]

Good effort y'all. The bransby has bagged the 2nd ascent, but on his 2nd day, so the big tick to go for is clearly 'in a single visit'

As for a grade, borderline 7c+/8a seems to be where its at. clamping ability is defo more important than strong fingers. I reckon its a full grade harder than the terrace, for example, which only took me half an hour.
(ooh look at me, must be technical :wink: )

[Stu Littlefair]

Mr Brown -

Your arete is now my new favourite problem in the peak. More quality hugging than is strictly allowed on a single problem.

Thank you for your efforts  

[mark]

Went out to have a look at Help The Young on Tuesday. Did it from standing and thought it was brilliant. Attempts were made at the sitter but not much progress.

Then went a bit further right and did Nightsalt. The start is great fun, a slightly highball arete but fine with a spotter to prevent you hurtling off down the hillside if you pitch off sideways. Similar quality and difficulty to Help The Young.

Had a look at Brass Monkeys on the way back to the car and it looks great. Be out to try it soon.

[Pantontino]

Mark, what happened to your N Wales trip - Rob said you didn't come in to collect the guide proof copy? Mind you, he was up in Scotland for a few days.

What is Nightsalt? - getting vaguely back on thread.

Also, what's the consensus for the stand up to Help the Young (or whatever it is called)?

[dave]

int nightsalt that E4 6c arete of the chimney left of calvary?

[mark]

Simon,

Managed to get to Lllanberis on the 27th. Nipped into the shop to say hello. Rob was up in Scotland but Al made me a cup of tea and I had a look at the guidebook proof. Looks great.  

Was across with  Robin Barker and we decided that the weather wasn't good enough to warrant a trip to the Lleyn. We headed up to the Cromlech boulders and had a play there and on Jerry's Roof until it began to rain. Had a brew in Pete's then to Pac-Man Boulders for a little while until it started snowing. Pretty bad weather but at least we got out. Hope to get across again before long.

Dave's right, Nightsalt is the right arete of the chimney left of Calvary. Very good problem.

About the grade of the standing start to Help the Young (I say standing though we were hopping up to the edge)... I'm no good at grading but earlier in the thread 7b and 7a+ were mentioned and that sounds about right. Felt more 7a+ but conditions were fantastic. Bit of a classic.