[tallsop]

Hi, has anyone done 'Nefertiti' at burbage? i was tryin to come in from the nose on the left like the original line but i think the holds (pebbles) for your hands under the overhanging bit hav be knocked off? defo feels harder than 6c now. were there pebbles ther before or was i just havin a crap day??? cheers, tom

[T_B]

Have spotted someone on it. Slightly committing undercut with your right on that nose to reach over for a pocket with your left, then shouldery rock rightwards into the break? Don't remember any pebbles.

[grimer]

Had a probe at this one time a few years ago. I think I might remember vaugely undercurring the nose then swinging right into the scoop where there are poorish crimps in the break, then trying to rock up to the next break above and more poor crimps. As Tiberius Brickstocking said, no recollection of crimps. It wasn't living end style stuff, so it's probably just a matter of getting the sequence.

[priscilla wimbush]

There's a tickmark below the break on this that I could see from the valley path, is that necessary?

[ferret]

pulled through the crux on this years ago to find the break covered in sand resulting in imediate lob. good job its safe! if theres a tick mark on it hopefully somebody cleaned it

there was nothing involving pulling on pebbles

[tallsop]

cool, wasnt sure how high up to start! yeah i cleaned the top break, it was absolutely filthy, green an wet!

[Johnny Brown]

Tried this yesterday with El Mocho. He did it, I didn't. Crux for anyone under six foot seems to be the first move - from the gully Ben did a nasty match on the break where the arete meets the roof, then a nastier reach right to the pocket/ good bit of the break.

undercut with your right on that nose to reach over for a pocket with your left

Please tell me you didn't manage that whilst stood on the ledge?

[T_B]

spotted brown on it who did the start a few times b4 committing to the upper lock betwixt breaks. he didn't seem to find the bottom particularly tricky tho tbh i can't remember the precise sequence.

[Johnny Brown]

Bizarre, we must have missed something. Ben breezed up the top once he got through the start. I reserve the right to fail to do the same though...

[dr crimp]

Tried this yesterday with El Mocho. He did it, I didn't. Crux for anyone under six foot seems to be the first move - from the gully Ben did a nasty match on the break where the arete meets the roof, then a nastier reach right to the pocket/ good bit of the break.

undercut with your right on that nose to reach over for a pocket with your left

Please tell me you didn't manage that whilst stood on the ledge?

was up there with tallsop on the day.the first sections desperot if ure four foot fuck all.a pebble has deffinatley broke which would not nessacitate the initial reach off the undercut to the break as you could slink right through the scoop at no change in grade.said pebble would have been an obvious choice off foothold for the upper wall.havin said that it does go without.

[Idol eyes]

Is this not a solo!!! thought it pretty straight forward..

[dave]

Bizarre, we must have missed something. Ben breezed up the top once he got through the start. I reserve the right to fail to do the same though...

on the start don't you pull on from that rock embedded in the floor?

[Johnny Brown]

You can do, pulling on from the floor is straightforward though. Its the next move that's the problem, whether you go direct or come in from the left.

[tallsop]

Is this not a solo!!! thought it pretty straight forward..

yeah, course its a solo - wind ur neck in mate

[dr crimp]

idol eyes! if u gona solo this let us all know CAUSE THAT WOULD BE MIGHTY FUCKIN IMPPRESSIVE TO WATCH.Do you value your legs,knees.ankles,life?

[Johnny Brown]

Err, I think everyone so far has been talking about soloing/ highballing. What are you on about?

[nik at work]

I think there may be a Nosferatu/Nefertiti confusion situation.

[Johnny Brown]

I'd consider that a solo as well.

[tallsop]

so its a solo?? despite the mention of pre-placed gear in all the guidebooks its in? Can we please just leave the bravado bullshit out of this???  I just wanted to know how the bloody thing starts!

[davetherud]

.

[Johnny Brown]

Pre-placed gear on a 20ft 'E6'? Its 2009 not 1992. Next you'll be telling me you've done it on a toprope and are considering a headpoint. Stick a couple of pads underneath and get on with it.

[grimer]

I think it was done originally with side-runners, i suspect baby-bouncers, at E5 6c. It is possible to place small gear around where happy Ever After is, but it's all a bit fiddly and not massively inspiring even on HEA where it is very close for the crux. on Nefertiti it would be a lot further away. The burbage guide gives it E6 6c, but also says that it was 'originally climbed with side-runners, it now makes a fine, scary highball'.

To be honest it might be safer as a highball. I really don't know of anyone doing it as a lead since JA. Having said that I bet it's still quite high. I know I bottled it.

[jonjon]

I know Welford did it, told me it was easy so i went for a go, fell off before getting to above my mat, twatted my ankle, haven't been back, cant remember any pebbles.

[dr crimp]

e6!its got a bit of meat.solo or not this is a good effort.pads or not,font or e?92 or2009?whatever.if u have done it did u enjoy it?think thats the main thing .personanally found it nails at four foot fuck all.but enjoyed tryinging.i soloed angles share at black rocks(above a fuck load of pads)but found nerfertiti desperate.jb can u explain this?

[tallsop]

personally mr long, (JB) i think ur elitist attidude stinks and u should be more suportive and more accepting of other peoples abilities and enjoyment of climbing. routes are lead/soloed/top roped by choice, with regards to the persons personal goals, motivations and aspirations. who are you too say how i should climb a route? people have different stimuli/ motivations and everybody should respect that. as long as climbers are having fun, surely thats all that matters??