[i.munro]

Can't climb or do much of anything at the moment due to tendonitis in one elbow so boredom has driven me to one hand training.
I've discovered that one (ring finger?? the one next to the little finger) of the middle three fingers is much weaker than the other two, about 75% of the strength.
Has anyone else noticed this?The beastmaker site suggests that the front two are made strong by crimping so it might be this.

[Dr T]

Has anyone else noticed this?

yes - both my ring fingers are significantly weaker and I tend to pull the ligaments in the middle fingers due to overcompensation

The beastmaker site suggests that the front two are made strong by crimping so it might be this.

sounds about right to me

hmm this might be in the running for least helpful reply ever

[slackline]

If its an issue address it by training on your ring and middle fingers, no? 

How much benefit it would actually have given that you'll likely revert to using your index and middle finger when climbing on pockets/monos and that these two would dominate when using all your fingers crimping I've no idea, but there may be some benefit.

[i.munro]

If its an issue address it by training on your ring and middle fingers, no? 

well that's what I'm trying to do, I was just a bit suprised at the big difference as the middle two always felt like the strong pair to me ( oh & did I mention that I'm bored!! so I thought I'd spread it around a bit)

[dave]

I wouldn't worry about it really unless you find yourself with 8 weak fingers.

[a dense loner]

or you'd want to use a hold with middle two, back two, or ring finger on its own. indeed just generally have better hand/finger strength

[i.munro]

indeed just generally have better hand/finger strength

This could be the most boring thread of all time! Sorry about that
dunno what I expected? an in depth analysis of tendon biomechanics??

I'm kind of hoping that it's easier to make gains by training this & the back two in isolation as I suspect it's been hiding as slack...line suggests while the front two have been doing all th ework

[Dr T]

until I had copius numbers of injuries this summer I was working on the ring fingers by working dead hangs/repeaters on the middle three so as to get some ring finger action but not over do it... worked to an extent will see properly when the tape finally comes off (if ever...)

[a dense loner]

my post was aimed at dave really. how can having a weak finger and then training it to be stronger be a bad thing? the answer is it can't

training fingers in isolation day on day off for a month is where i've seen most rewards, and they look fuckin good

that last bit was only very slightly tongue in cheek

[slackline]

training fingers in isolation day on day off for a month is where i've seen most rewards, and they look fuckin good

In complete anticipation of what it might elicit.....

Show us you're finger(s) Lee 

[a dense loner]

 

[Drew]

Bizarrely,  I find that the strongest pair of fingers for me,is the middle, plus the ring finger. Not that my index finger is excessively weak, but when I use the middle two (ignoring the thumb), they are both supported/stabilised by the finger outside of them.

I have worked on those two a little, but not sufficient for them to be the strongest pairing due to training. It's a natural thing, which I've tried to enhance.

[duncan]

Chop your index finger off and it will force you to use your ring finger.  Problem solved.

[dave]

my post was aimed at dave really. how can having a weak finger and then training it to be stronger be a bad thing? the answer is it can't

doesn anyone actually know that all fingers are supposed to be the same strength? having a ring finger thats only 75% as strong as the other 2 could be perfectly normal. Hence my comment about not worrying about it.

[a dense loner]

i think you'd be a bizarre individual to have all fingers the same strength, or called dai

[Falling Down]

until I had copius numbers of injuries this summer I was working on the ring fingers by working dead hangs/repeaters on the middle three

 

Has anyone had any forearm/elbow problems from working the middle two/back two? I seem to have developed a wierd niggle on the outside upper forearm where the insertion point (bear with me here as I haven't got a clue what I'm on about) of the back two tendons enter the Extensor near the elbow...

It doesn't hurt when climbing but aches/twinges when I pinch to pick anything up like a bottle of milk or my computer bag etc.

I've laid off fingerboarding the back three as it definately twinges when I load the back two on the beastmaker..

Just curious to see whether anyone has had anything similar. It's totally different from the usual elbow fatigue I've had in the past...

[rodma]

until I had copius numbers of injuries this summer I was working on the ring fingers by working dead hangs/repeaters on the middle three

 

Has anyone had any forearm/elbow problems from working the middle two/back two? I seem to have developed a wierd niggle on the outside upper forearm where the insertion point (bear with me here as I haven't got a clue what I'm on about) of the back two tendons enter the Extensor near the elbow...

It doesn't hurt when climbing but aches/twinges when I pinch to pick anything up like a bottle of milk or my computer bag etc.

I've laid off fingerboarding the back three as it definately twinges when I load the back two on the beastmaker..

Just curious to see whether anyone has had anything similar. It's totally different from the usual elbow fatigue I've had in the past...

 

My forearms have gone really tight around my elbow, since training the back two.

It feels like nice pain, but a little risky, have had to be careful not to overdo it down the wall on non-beastmaker nights

[a dense loner]

i find it affects my elbows a little when i do back 2 on a rung but fine on the beast