[TomP]

A friend and I went to St Bees this weekend and were richly rewarded for our efforts. We searched for projects and checked out a new circuit (which local hotshot Greg C is working on)

Here are some shots and descriptions of the new probs:

If you walk North along the coast line from Apiary Wall you quickly see some other boulders.

Lost Buoys maybe as hard as 8a but it felt fine when I did it so 7c+/8a. Superb and hard!!!!!! Start undercutting the block with a right heel on, then do some powerful slaps up the slopey ramp. Then, with toe and heel hooks fire out to a good sidepul intermeidate and then to a small crimp. Do a huge powerful rock over and pull hard on the crimp for the final desperate top move (which is huge!).





Bad Buoyz is a big roof. This is at the Old Buoys circuit. Starting standing up with a good flake for both hands, throw a heel up and begin traversing the big fin along some decent crimps. Then go round the end of the fin and join the top at the otherside and climb all the way to the furthest point. Prob about 7b (or even 7b+). Absolutely brilliant fun!





Bee to a Honey Pot is on the way to the Old Buoys Circuit from Apiary Wall. Can't miss it. Stunning arete. Prob 6a from standing and 7a+/7b from a sitter. The sitter involves a really powerful pull up the arete from the obious flake and into the gentle arete. Classic!



Beano is a dyno just behind Bad Bouyz. Very obvious thing from two slots in the break to the top. About 6c+/7a. First ascent David Gater.


 

[Monolith]

Awesome Tom! Great finds, look forward to getting there again.

[Mike Tyson]

I think we may have chatted briefly Tom, you and your mate were playing on Yellow Desert as me and my mate were heading off. I think your pal was on Headbanger at some point as well. I was the plump, out of shape gentleman!

Good effort by the way.

[TomP]

Ah yes, our paths did cross! Hope you had a good day. It was a spectacular day to be there. Actually, I used to it being really hot when I go there but there was a bit of cloud cover this time. My mate has climbed a hand full of times in the last 6 years. He managed YDS, Clash o t Titans, Headbanger, V7 run dyno thing and a few other V7s. I was dead impressed

[Mike Tyson]

Wowsers! I thought he had the physique of a seasoned boulderer, not that I'm a perv or anything. Good effort by him, that's a good deal of sendage by anyones standards.

[TomP]

Yeah, he's still got it! What brilliant problems to do after such a long time off too

[scooby doo]

sure you dont mean a seasoned drinker! ha ha, loved st Bees first time there def goin back at sum point (between beers) such a nice settin thanks for taking us up tommy

[TomP]

No worries mate. Was quality. Dunno bout you but I'm quite literally in agony after heel hooking and bloody walking uphill!

[SA Chris]

I'm quite literally in agony after ......bloody walking uphill!

Avoid climbing in Scotland then.

[Nike Air]

Hey nice one Tom , glad more stuff has been done. I was running out of things to do there but now with this stuff and neds new prob another trip is on the cards me thinks.

[TomP]

Yeah I know what you mean. There are loads of problems at St Bees but if you climb upto V7/8 you can tick most of them in a session or two. With recent additions from Greg C, Dan V, Ned and myself there's going to be plenty more to go at soon. Greg is updating the topo I think and making a new one for the new "Old Buoys" circuit, which has some real classics (especially his superb 7b arete). I'm sure we'll see them in the near future.

[c.j.d.]

Nice one Tom old buoy.

[tc]

Where is all the new stuff being documented? I searched Lakesbloc but there's nothing there.

[webbo]

when i saw there was a post from you t.c. i thought for a moment it would be."new problems!!! i did these in 1917 whilst on leave from the western front"

[TomP]

I don't think Greg has had the time to update the topo yet so it isn't on Lakesbloc. Not sure when it will be. It's easy to find though. If you just head north from the main Apiary area for about 10 mins then you see some obvious blocks. Some of the stuff on the walls near the cliff isn't so obvious. Be pateint my friend.

Here's a not very good clip of an early attempt at Lost Buoys. My mate had to balance the camera on a rock so the first moves can't really be seen. Worth showing for beta I suppose:

[tc]

when i saw there was a post from you t.c. i thought for a moment it would be."new problems!!! i did these in 1917 whilst on leave from the western front"

You and I both know that everything, on every boulder, everywhere was "done years ago by Bob Smith", Webbo!

[scooby doo]

I'm quite literally in agony after ......bloody walking uphill!

Avoid climbing in Scotland then.

whos the geography teacher? Lakes aint SCOTLAND to my knowledge!

[SA Chris]

1)read
2)think
3)understand
4)reply

I said if he can't cope with walking uphill he should avoid going climbing in SCOTLAND. I didn't say the Lakes were in SCOTLAND.

[chappers]

1)read
2)think
3)understand
4)reply

sounds like you should be a teacher with a response like that though! chapeau!

[SA Chris]

I bucked the family trend.

[webbo]

when i saw there was a post from you t.c. i thought for a moment it would be."new problems!!! i did these in 1917 whilst on leave from the western front"

You and I both know that everything, on every boulder, everywhere was "done years ago by Bob Smith", Webbo!

thats only up your way.round here it was arthur dolphin with dennis grey spotting.

[Dicker]

Nice one Tom/Dave - looks like some good ticks - anything left - maybe an easy 8b traverse?
Had call from Dave - keen to go back on Bank Holiday - you up for that??

[TomP]

Found some easier beta for Lost Buoys making the problem probably 7c/7c+. Still pretty tricky.