[sharkey]

Just had a year and a half off, no climbing at all..nada although i have been mtbing. Without pointing out the obvious  to climb loads, i would like to be a little more scientific and build a good foundation.. something to build on, would it be a good idea to spend a couple of weeks doing easier circuits for instance? i stopped to help a few niggly injuries to clear up, before i climbed around the font 7a/+ with a tailwind but i only ever really climbed, without specific training.

I feel revitalised and ready to face a challenge, font 7b was a grade i aspired to but never quite managed, there seem to be so many good prblems in the 7a+/7b range, maybe it is time to realise this dream, the other thing is i really miss the beauty  of Fontainebleau and can't wait to get back. any tips much appreciated.

[St Hubbins]

Get a beastmaker! When you've mastered it, bukkake the thing, then master it again...

[fatdoc]

though currently in a climbing lull and back into MTB if i may offer my experiences...

it took me 6 weeks to climb a font 7a i hadnt done before after a 6 year break form climbing..

MTB is rather good cross training for bouldering (pumped forearms, shoulders used to pull the bike around... dont get me wrong it wont make you climb 8c.. but it is worthwhile..)

it's your finger dead hand strength that is the specific you now lack.

the thing not to do is to go on a fingerboard.. for at least a month.. bag off all the MTB, and do loads of bouldering, easy, high volume stuff.. please forget all your previous gains / best efforts and just enjoy the sport. All your past niggling injuries will have gone and you'll bounce up to your near best real quick.

I then did a few weeks of easy (compared to previous lives) campusing combined with the above easy bouldering.. then i did some old school both hands on dead hangs at low intensity. I timed this for cold weather (with luck) to be at the middle of winter.

boom!

god, it felt good to be back.

even flashed a 7a shortly after ( OK, not ground breakin shit - but I'd never dome that before)

good luck..

[sharkey]

Top post fatdoc....you are right, it's the fingers that feel really week just now, have had one climbing session and quite suprised at what i can get up as long as it aint mega steep, just using good old technique...as for the beastmaker in my dreams.