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New 8C in Britain (Read 31299 times)

squeek

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New 8C in Britain
November 11, 2003, 01:42:32 pm
By Si O'Conner, see www.8a.nu.

Good going!

Bubba

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#1 New 8C in Britain
November 11, 2003, 01:52:49 pm
Cool - Uk's second 8c, well done to Mr O'Connor !!

Hope there's some piccies somewhere....

It's location should keep repeat attempts to a minimum though!

dave

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#2 New 8C in Britain
November 11, 2003, 02:04:44 pm
to be honest he could grade things hes done whatever he wants cos ain't no fucker going to go and try them - could be graded 7a-9c for all we are going to find out. consider how many top rockstars go all the way up to lakes to try gaskins stuff, then divide that number by about 1000 and you'll have a ballpark figure.

Bubba

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#3 New 8C in Britain
November 11, 2003, 02:15:02 pm
Yes, that's true, but then Si O'Connor is one of those few who *has* done some of Gaskin's Lakes stuff, so I suspect that he knows his grades....

Isn't Malcolm Smith based back in Scotland again now?

Adam Lincoln

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#4 New 8C in Britain
November 11, 2003, 02:17:51 pm
Bubba - You might want to delete my thread on this very same subject.

Must be favouritism, i posted before Squeek  :(

 :lol:

Bubba

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#5 New 8C in Britain
November 11, 2003, 02:28:04 pm
Sorry Adam, I didn't see your post 'til afterwards  :oops:

I'll chop it now anyway....

dave

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#6 New 8C in Britain
November 11, 2003, 02:32:26 pm
Quote from: "Bubba"
Isn't Malcolm Smith based back in Scotland again now?


yeah but edinburgh is still a fuck of a long way from skye or wherever it is - it probably takes longer than getting to the peak!

Bubba

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#7 New 8C in Britain
November 11, 2003, 02:40:05 pm
Yeah, but he's probably done everything in the Peak!

dave

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#8 New 8C in Britain
November 11, 2003, 02:41:39 pm
whats he ever done at roche abbey? god damn punter!

Bubba

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#9 New 8C in Britain
November 11, 2003, 02:42:25 pm
I suppose there is The Ace as well - or am I wrong?

tc

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#10 New 8C in Britain
November 11, 2003, 05:30:03 pm
Quote from: "dave"
to be honest he could grade things hes done whatever he wants cos ain't no fucker going to go and try them

Eeezee now, young man. This fucker has been practically living in boulder fields in Scotland this year!  :twisted:

dave

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#11 New 8C in Britain
November 11, 2003, 09:28:07 pm
Quote from: "tc"
Quote from: "dave"
to be honest he could grade things hes done whatever he wants cos ain't no fucker going to go and try them

Eeezee now, young man. This fucker has been practically living in boulder fields in Scotland this year!  :twisted:


fair doos! hope you get a quick repeat.

Bubba

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#12 New 8C in Britain
November 12, 2003, 08:38:48 am
Its' called "Extradition" by the way...

dobbin

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#13 New 8C in Britain
November 12, 2003, 08:50:57 am
I don't think the Ace has had a repeat yet...

tc

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#14 New 8C in Britain
November 12, 2003, 11:31:16 am
Quote from: "Dave"
fair doos! hope you get a quick repeat.


I wasn't making any inflated claims to super-stardom there - just attempting to point out that there is a lively bouldering scene north of the border, beyond the Socialist Republic of South Yorkshire :wink:

dave

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#15 New 8C in Britain
November 12, 2003, 11:35:08 am
nice one - if i'm ever up that kneck off the woods i'll check it out. acutally it must be proper bo to be somewhere with potential for almost infinite bouldering undescovered all over the place, even if a bit seasonal.

squeek

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#16 New 8C in Britain
November 13, 2003, 09:06:01 am
>I don't think the Ace has had a repeat yet...

Does anyone know anything about this being repeated very recently?

Adam Lincoln

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#17 New 8C in Britain
November 13, 2003, 09:08:45 am
Quote from: "squeek"
>I don't think the Ace has had a repeat yet...

Does anyone know anything about this being repeated very recently?


The only people i heard that where close were Malc and Ry Pasquil

dave

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#18 New 8C in Britain
November 13, 2003, 09:14:13 am
you'd think chris davies would be able to put it to bed ok, since didn't he recon the joker was no more than font7c? :lol: ?

me mate steve says he's trainig for the ace. since he's not planning on doing the joker first i don't know wether to take it seriously!

Bubba

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#19 New 8C in Britain
November 13, 2003, 09:34:18 am
I was there when Chris Davies did it - it didn't take him very long at all, it was pretty warm and he'd just had some ...errrm "herbal assistance" just beforehand  :shock:

The boy is strong!

Greg C

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#20 New 8C in Britain
November 13, 2003, 10:29:54 am
I don`t think you will find Si has actually climbed a Fnt8b+ (so how can he claim 8c) as he in fact gives Little Women Fnt8a on his own topo...
http://climb-guide.com/boulder-guide/little_font.html

Fnt 8c ... I`m not convinced, sorry!
To me the thread of comparrison to Liitle Women (which he must have made) is just another nail in Si`s already well nailed coffin.

Cheers Greg :evil:

Bubba

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#21 New 8C in Britain
November 13, 2003, 10:34:50 am
Strange, I've seen that post somewhere else  :wink:

He has done Aeons (8b) at Fairy Steps and Isla de Encanta (8b) at Trowbarrow - can you give something two grades more than the hardest thing you've done?

The only real way to find out is for somebody capable to go and repeat it.

dave

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#22 New 8C in Britain
November 13, 2003, 10:38:56 am
i gotta say i get where greg is coming from.

check the scorecard, i think when the vast majority of the problems on here are his own first ascents then you've got to take grades with a pinch of salt.

we've all bin in the situation where we've had a project down the wall, been convinced it so-and-so grade, takes you months then someone else pisses it.

when someone (or a small group) is opperating in isolation grades can and will go apeshit. take the peak bouldering in the late 80s early 90s. a relativley small group operating in isolation and you get grades like The Thing at engish 8a going around!

Adam Lincoln

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#23 New 8C in Britain
November 13, 2003, 10:39:27 am
Quote from: "Bubba"
Strange, I've seen that post somewhere else  :wink:

He has done Aeons (8b) at Fairy Steps - can you give something two grades more than the hardest thing you've done?

The only real way to find out is for somebody capable to go and repeat it.


It didnt stop Bernabé Fernández!

Aeons is a funny one too. Its V11 from left to right. V12 Right to left finishing up the crack. And V13, doing the two left to right, right to left in one push

Bubba

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#24 New 8C in Britain
November 13, 2003, 10:44:04 am
Quote from: "dave"
when someone (or a small group) is opperating in isolation grades can and will go apeshit. take the peak bouldering in the late 80s early 90s. a relativley small group operating in isolation and you get grades like The Thing at engish 8a going around!

Don't forget a lot of the Scottish boulderers have very easy access to Font, courtesy of Ryanair, so they're not exactly completely in isolation.

Also, the Peak crew snided John Dunne for years because he operated on his own, and also people like Ken Palmer's hard ascents at Anstey's were instantly dismissed because he was from the south west, so "he must have been overgrading".

 

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