[Fultonius]

Have any of you found a good shoe that isn't noticable "rubbish" but that you can wear on multi-pitch trad routes without feeling like your standing in a slowly closing vice? If I'm pushing the boat out grade wise (E3/E4, I'll just suffer the new Anasazi whites, so this is for routes in the HVS - E2 bracket mainly)


In the past I've had:

Boreal Stingmas - Crappy rubber and soft, but comfy and good for smearing.
Anasazi V2 Velcros - They were ok IIRC for trad, but it was a while back.
Anasazi Verdes - My last 2 pairs. Good shoes, but wore out quick. Seem not too painfull at the start of the day, but slowly descend into pain as the day goes on.
Scarpa Thunder - I brief and very unsuccessful attempt to find comfy shoes. Comfy - yes, good, hell no! Felt dangerous on HVS's
Anasazi V2's - just bought them last night, can't imagine I'm going to enjoy multi-pitch in them too much!


I know fit is them main thing, but any thoughts?

[slackline]

Try some Boreal Jokers for siez (velcro or lace).

In fact anything with velcro can be slipped off relatively easily and clipped on to your belay, thus saving you the hassle of wearing tight shoes for hours at a time 

[Fultonius]

I do quite often take them of at the belays and regularly think "shit, if I drop down this 300m route this it's going to ruin my day".

Hmm, velcros. Might try a slighty less crushingly small Anasazi velcro or the jokers or something, as  per SA Chris's suggestion the Evolve Defy's?

[slackline]

I do quite often take them of at the belays and regularly think "shit, if I drop down this 300m route this it's going to ruin my day".

Same would be true if you dropped a rack of nuts, no?

If you're worried about dropping them, just have a bit of cord lark's footed onto you're harness with a krab on the end and clip you're shoes heel loop before popping them off so even if you drop them they ain't going to tumble down to the base.

[robertostallioni]

Don't you multi-pitch wallah's put a stretchy anke-band through the pull-on loops to keep shoes on the ankle, when off the foot, and not 200 foot down the route?

or that ^

[Adam Lincoln]

Evolv Pontas laceups.

[Richie Crouch]

5.10 5X's are amazing and comfortable 

[Drew]

5.10 Galileo's? Like Anasazi VCS, but more comfy, and stiffer

[chillax]

5.10 5X's are amazing and comfortable 

They look pretty good. Would they be a good replacement for the old blue slippers? Mine are nearly knackered. How does the sizing compare to the anasazis do you know?

[Richie Crouch]

I went half a size down so 8 anasazi to 7.5 5x.

They fit like a Mocassin, as that is what they are based upon (with the additional velco, zip and decent heel)

[Fultonius]

I do quite often take them of at the belays and regularly think "shit, if I drop down this 300m route this it's going to ruin my day".

Same would be true if you dropped a rack of nuts, no?

If you're worried about dropping them, just have a bit of cord lark's footed onto you're harness with a krab on the end and clip you're shoes heel loop before popping them off so even if you drop them they ain't going to tumble down to the base.

I guess it would, I usually have my nuts split up in such a way that dropping them wouldn't be game over.

Cheers for the thoughts guys - plenty to try out now! I can't imagine any stocks 5x's in Glasgow though

[tomtom]

Try some Boreal Jokers for siez (velcro or lace).

  Jokers = good comfy all round shoes (esp for wider feet). AND they're not made from that 5:10 vegan leather alternative shite that doesnt breathe and makes your feet 1. Blister and 2. Smell like Satans ringpiece.

Having said that, my Aanaanastasi velcros are the best shoes I've ever had, but I'd rather eat them than wear them on an all day multi-pitch route...

[SA Chris]

Don't you multi-pitch wallah's put a stretchy anke-band through the pull-on loops to keep shoes on the ankle, when off the foot, and not 200 foot down the route?

Make awful tan lines. Not good.