Qualidy chuffin' pics.... (Read 627887 times)

SA Chris · February 20, 2007, 07:29:58 am

I'm not sure he undertands cam placements (yes I know, he's probably lightening his rack).

Where abouts?

Carnage · February 20, 2007, 07:44:02 am

Its a place called the Zawn- nearest place is Port Stephens which is up past Newcastle, near Nelsons Bay.

ben · February 23, 2007, 02:26:28 pm

Looks remarkably similar to Mount Brown in Tasmania, close to the Totem Pole.

jwi · March 09, 2007, 11:45:00 am

Of course, I'm a bit embarrassed to post this after Justins Jefferson photos. Anyway. A few pic from Mt. Horai, where the (male) Phoenix comes sometime, apparently.

Metaforce, 8c+ Horai, Japan

Well it is 8c+ according to the topo. Some locals told me its down to 8b/b+ now, but I'm not 100% I really understand what they said.

This seemed to be the red-point crux for the fellas working it when I went there this autumn.

Metaforce, 8c+

One guy did send it while I was hanging from the anchor of this route:

That's climbing show, one of the worlds steepest 7b+

The guy boldly skipped two clips, and then he was to pumped to clip the bolt at the lip. In the end he decided to punch to the anchor. If he had pumped out he would have hit the floor for sure. So that was quite exciting to watch hanging 10 feet from him.

If anyone is intrested in Japanese sports climbing, I have a few more pics from Horai here: http://www.flickr.com/search/?q=horai&w=73264594%40N00&s=int

GCW · March 09, 2007, 03:37:26 pm

That looks like a really nice venue with all the trees. Take a long time to dry?

Paul B · March 09, 2007, 07:07:35 pm

I saw those pics over on UKC, the venue looks amazing... look strangely like some of the pics of simpson on action directe $:-\$

jwi · March 10, 2007, 02:10:26 am

Quote from: GCW on March 09, 2007, 03:37:26 pm

That looks like a really nice venue with all the trees. Take a long time to dry?

Don't really know. I've only been there during the dry season (autumn), and most cliffs dried out really quick after light rain. The big roof in the pic stays dry after all but the most heavy rainfalls.

An interesting thing with Mt Horai is that the spirits get pissed off if there's QDs hanging from the routes overnigh, or so the priest at the shrine on the top of the mountain claims. So every day we have to take down the QDs before nightfall.

GCW · March 10, 2007, 03:46:14 pm

Quote from: jwi on March 10, 2007, 02:10:26 am

An interesting thing with Mt Horai is that the spirits get pissed off if there's QDs hanging from the routes overnigh, or so the priest at the shrine on the top of the mountain claims. So every day we have to take down the QDs before nightfall.

A very easy task I expect.

hongkongstuey · March 11, 2007, 02:31:26 pm

A few shots from Tung Lung Island (HK) yesterday:

Kev on It's a Sin (F7a+)

Joyee on Echo of Dog (F6c+)

and this final bugger (crap photo) has been stopping me dead on the next move for the last 5 weeks - damn my ego and first ascent projects...

Teaboy · March 11, 2007, 04:23:20 pm

Quote

stopping me dead on the next move for the last 5 weeks

Why not just drop the lower off 12 inches!

hongkongstuey · March 12, 2007, 05:06:37 am

You don't know how tempting that is - however, the fact that I can pull back on and do the move ok after a shot rest would kinda make it a weak kop out

hongkongstuey · March 16, 2007, 01:29:30 pm

a better shot of the project - praying for good weather tomorrow...

Fiend · March 16, 2007, 09:41:41 pm

Dramatic location, nice looking wall. Good luck with it Stuey. I think it's good having a crux there - looks like you have to reach the top before clipping - proper climbing eh!

hongkongstuey · March 17, 2007, 12:46:04 am

rain stops play (probably tomorrow too)

and by the time i get back from Tassie we'll be entering HK summer conditions - things not looking good for sendage

Dr T · April 10, 2007, 02:35:52 pm

some say I'm a bit slow, true only got round to my first outdoor lead on the weekend
The Accelerator 7a onsight

SA Chris · April 10, 2007, 03:03:36 pm

Quote from: Dr T on April 10, 2007, 02:35:52 pm

some say I'm a bit slow, true only got round to my first outdoor lead on the weekend

First one ever???? Or just this year?

Dr T · April 10, 2007, 03:22:39 pm

Quote from: SA Chris on April 10, 2007, 03:03:36 pm

First one ever???? Or just this year?

first ever

been at this game for about three years (with eight months off last year for spinal surgery - still hurts but it's about as good as it's ever gonna get so... plus exercise, apart from running, helps)
Obviously I've lead indoors a bit but I generally focus on the bouldering outside, anyways took some mates down to the island who don't climb very hard but are into the whole long route thing so I compromised and let them talk me into a 7 meter micro route
Real stoked at doing it and there are some other "boulder problems with clips" type routes that I'm eyeing but I'm not yet sold on the really long stuff (I have the concentration span of roadkill.....

)

r-man · April 19, 2007, 04:01:47 pm

Saw this on a ukc thread.

SA Chris · April 19, 2007, 05:56:55 pm

Great Zawn?

Carnage · April 19, 2007, 11:23:29 pm

Eagle Rock Crack project (so far unsent)

unclesomebody · April 19, 2007, 11:46:57 pm

thread hijack... sorry. But what the FUCK is Bonnie Prince Billy doing climbing trad cracks?

r-man · April 20, 2007, 02:16:46 pm

Quote from: SA Chris on April 19, 2007, 05:56:55 pm

Great Zawn?

Yes. http://www.verticaldaze.com/roadtrip/source/dusk_060722_7485_fullsize_.htm

Quote from: unclesomebody on April 19, 2007, 11:46:57 pm

thread hijack... sorry. But what the FUCK is Bonnie Prince Billy doing climbing trad cracks?

Looks like he's getting into hard rock.

clm · April 20, 2007, 05:13:19 pm

jamming gloves!!! preplaced gear!!!! if those jams were anything like a hand (rather than a finger etc) he should be shot

curly ben · April 20, 2007, 06:18:42 pm

why do all hard crack climbing dudes have beards?

a dense loner · April 20, 2007, 11:18:07 pm

to get to the other side