[GCW]

Right mothersuckers, as much as I hate dynos the Bearded one is forcing me to go to Font next year and try some.  I'm after recommendations for funky dynamism, preferably 7a-7b+.  After searching through the 7+8s and Bleau.info I've come up with this list, opinions very much welcome people:

Bas Cuvier
Pif Paf  7a
Hop Hop Hop 7b+

Cuvier Rempart
Immodium  7a

Cuvier- La reconnaissance
Vision d'Escaflowne  7a
Master Frog  7b+
Flying Fat 97  7c

Apremont Bizons
Scream  7c

Rocher Saint Germain
Affirmatif  7a
Éjection Précoce  7a+
Triste Sir  7a+
Soucis d'Air  8a

Franchard Sablons
Sylphide  7a
Jokari droite  7b
http.bloc  7c

Franchard Hautes Plaines
Les Araignées de Mars  7a+

Franchard Isatis
Vin Rouge  7a/+
Froggy Dick  7b
Là où Finit la Raie des Fesses  7b
Kangaroo City  7b+
Vin Aigre  7c+

Franchard Cuisiniere
Entorse  7a+
Mister Dynamite  7b
La Déferlante  7b
Soirée Brésilienne  7b
Double Entorse  7b+
Super Flux  7b+
Hale Bopp  7c
Chatterton  7a-8a run 'n' jump

Franchard Meyer
l’air de Rien  7c

Franchard Carriers
Mortel Transfert 7b
Voltex  7b+
Rainbow Rocket  7c+

Gorges du Houx
Titanus  7a

Rocher de la Salamandre
Besoin d'Elle  7c

Rocher d'Avon
Basta  7a+
Le Danseur  7b

Rocher de Bouligny
Le Plat Pays  7b+

Rocher du Mauvais Passage
Vol à la Tire  7c+

Maunoury
Instinct  7c+

Petit Bois
Le Poids des Soupirs  7b+

Beauvais Nainville
Tsé Tsé  7a
Les Révoltés du Stonewall  7b+

J.A. Martin
Ariane 5  7c
Vol au Dessus d'un Nid de Coucou  8a

Rocher fin
Naufrage d'une Illusion (L'Envol du Martinet)  7a

Roche aux Sabots
Jet Set  7a
Beaux Travail  7a+
Smash  7b

Roche aux Oiseaux
Morphine  8a

95.2
Jeté Michaud / Jump  7a+
Étrave de droite / 95.C  7a

La Canche aux Merciers
La Puce  8a

Bois Rond
Toubib or not Toubib  7a
Sensation  7b+

[andy_e]

You need a life.

[GCW]

Yeah, but I also need some dynos recommending, Monsieur Psyche.   

[Adam Lincoln]

Has R-man broken into your house? 

[GCW]

TanMan, the list would be numbered, in alphabetical order and multicoloured if that were the case....

Any of you buggers gonna recommend some dynos? 

[Adam Lincoln]

Any of you buggers gonna recommend some dynos? 

I think you covered all the ones i know 

[GCW]

Well, if any you know are shit then please speak up.  That's a lot of dynos to try in a week.

[andy_e]

All dynos are shit 

[lagerstarfish]

Not a brilliant one, but worth a go because Kurt does it in The Real Thing - the double dyno eliminate (ledge to top, both hands) to the left of l'envie des betes at Isatis. It gets 7a in the film, but is more like 6b/c for those of us of reasonable stature.

[dave]

7a=7b is a great grade range for dynos in font, go nuts:

Bas Cuvier
Pif Paf  7a
Hop Hop Hop 7b+

I think these are a bit eliminate and slightly wack. I've tried hop hop hop its more of a jumpy slap problem than a proper dyno. ok to play on if you're there but i wouldn't make a visit for these 2.

Cuvier- La reconnaissance
Vision d'Escaflowne  7a
Master Frog  7b+

master frog is a bit low and awkward, like Pooh only more so. Escaflowne is good though, worth doing.

Franchard Sablons
Jokari droite  7b

seem to remember this has got a gash landing. get yourself on the dyno wall out the back of here, the 7a, 7b and 7b+ are all good - 7b is the easiest.

Franchard Isatis
Vin Rouge  7a/+
Froggy Dick  7b

Kangaroo City  7b+
Vin Aigre  7c+

vin rouge and froggy are both very good. kangaroo city i almost did years ago - bit more awkward, low starting position etc. vin aigre isn't really a dyno.

Franchard Cuisiniere
Entorse  7a+
Mister Dynamite  7b
La Déferlante  7b
Hale Bopp  7c

entorse is good, more an arete jump than a dyno. if you're under about 5'10 forget about it, if you're over 6'2 ditto since it'll be trivial. have not done mister dynamite but if i rmeember right it looks OK although my feet kept hitting the ground - and people tend to go for a shit under it. be aware on hale bop its a dyno of shap broken crimps. deferlante isn't hard but has an awkward landing. chatterton should be fun but its not a dyno really.

entorse - always go for the left hand top hold, its the way.

Rocher d'Avon
Basta  7a+
Le Danseur  7b

basta is a good problem but more a big slap than a dyno. danseur is good too, a potential quick tick.

Petit Bois
Le Poids des Soupirs  7b+

this is good though topout can be sandy/dirty.

Roche aux Sabots
Smash  7b

this is about as good an all-out jug-to-jug dyno as you're likely to find, great.

La Canche aux Merciers
La Puce  8a

Looks awesome, its 8a. top hold looks like it'd potentially remove all the pads from yours fingers at once.

Bois Rond
Toubib or not Toubib  7a

good eliminate but don't make a trip for it.

can't think of any others. there's some eliminate ones on the right side of the mister proper wall at 95.2 i think.

(amazingly kim didn't actualy do either of the problems in those photos.....)

[GCW]

Thanks D, very useful.
I tried Hale Bopp on may last Font visit many moons ago.  I was a good 12" from landing it, and I seem to remember it's not particularly nice.

[tomtom]

Thanks D, very useful.
I tried Hale Bopp on may last Font visit many moons ago.  I was a good 12" from landing it, and I seem to remember it's not particularly nice.

Seen the vid of someone doing it in trainers by taking a running jump up to it?

[dave]

you're thinking of chatterton, to the right of HB.

[GCW]

Seen the vid of someone doing it in trainers by taking a running jump up to it?

Yeah, that's Chatterton.  I've seen a video of some big poof doing it in trainers too.

[dave]

just thought of another Zyno - a dyno off undercuts on the end of the 95.2 ridge, from the main crag head to surplomb de bivouac and keep going, round the other side of the roofy boulder. you need 2 pads for the landing.

[Andy B]

Orgasme Cosmique, at La Mare a Piat is a very good, backwards roof dyno.

[Andy B]

Bas Cuvier
Pif Paf  7a
Hop Hop Hop 7b+

As Dave says, these are both tight lines (eliminates), but Pif Paf is quite a fun double sloper catch, and you'll do it fast, so it's nice to do if you're at Cuvier.

Cuvier- La reconnaissance
Vision d'Escaflowne  7a
Master Frog  7b+
Flying Fat 97  7c

Neither Vision or Flying Fat are proper dynos, and Master Frog is a very low start, and over graded unless it has some eliminate rules.

Franchard Sablons
Sylphide  7a
Jokari droite  7b
http.bloc  7c

Sylphide is good (it's actually at the dyno wall at Franchard Carriers rather than Sablons itself.
Jokari looks good but, as dave says you'll need a few pads.
http bloc is not a dyno.

Franchard Carriers
Mortel Transfert 7b
Voltex  7b+
Rainbow Rocket  7c+

This is the place to go for dynos, and you can warm up on Vin Rouge on the way.

Franchard Cuisiniere
Entorse  7a+
Mister Dynamite  7b
La Déferlante  7b
Soirée Brésilienne  7b
Double Entorse  7b+
Super Flux  7b+
Hale Bopp  7c
Chatterton  7a-8a run 'n' jump

Some good ones here, but in my opinion Chatterton is stretching the definition of climbing almost as much as Malc's One Armer.

Franchard Meyer
l’air de Rien  7c

Good but not really a full dyno. More about crimping.

Maunoury
Instinct  7c+

I haven't tries this but it looks really good. Also here is:
Pigeon Vole http://bleau.info/maunoury/14198.html which looks good in the vid but has a shocking landing in real life.
Movement Activated http://bleau.info/maunoury/12300.html which is a really interesting, subtle and frustrating dyno.

Petit Bois
Le Poids des Soupirs  7b+

I'm sure Dave would be keen to go back and finish this off with you, as unfortunately he couldn't manage the top out when we were there.

Roche aux Sabots
Jet Set  7a
Beaux Travail  7a+
Smash  7b

Roche aux Oiseaux
Morphine  8a

That Sabots stuff is very good, but Beaux Travail is desperate, and not a dyno.

Also there is La Lime A Ongles, http://bleau.info/sabots/766.html which we (Kim and I) did as a sort of dynamic stand up, if you know what I mean, which we really enjoyed. Quite unusual.

Morphine is not a dyno, and is a crap eliminate anyway.

95.2
Étrave de droite / 95.C  7a

The way we did this was as a really good, satisfying dyno, but there seemed a bit of confusion as to some supposed eliminate nature described in the guide.

Zyno is, as dave says, good.

La Canche aux Merciers
La Puce  8a

Looks good.

[adam_NE5]

Smash 7b in Sabots is a brilliant problem!!! It's well worth having a go of, plus there are plenty of brilliant problems literally feet away! I remember doing an arete problem opposite this boulder on the left which was tricky by really nice!
DEFINATELY try this one, I know I will be in Sept when i get my arse back there! 

[Andy B]

A few more that i've reminded myself of:

Cuvier Rempart
Immodium  7a

Decent but certainly no gift for a 7a dyno.

Rocher Saint Germain
Soucis d'Air  8a

I didn't try this, but I thought it looked brilliant.

Dave, we should try this in October.

Franchard Hautes Plaines
Les Araignées de Mars  7a+

This is theoretically piss easy, but I found it impossible not to dab on the boulder to the side. I'm sure you would have to catch the top in a side lever position!

[dave]

Rocher Saint Germain
Soucis d'Air  8a

I didn't try this, but I thought it looked brilliant.

Dave, we should try this in October.

hard to tell what it does from that photo - dyno sideways from the low hold to that chalk dab on the left? you'll have to work on your immune system anyway, lets not run before we can walk here.....

there's also that phobos moon thing at cock-your-bitch. eliminate but looks bonzer.

[Andy B]

hard to tell what it does from that photo - dyno sideways from the low hold to that chalk dab on the left?

In real life it's more up in a big diagonal than it looks in that photo. It's also a good distance, that block is actually quite big. The low hold is not that low, and the top out will be mildly highball, and I think, if I remember rightly, it heads up and left, out of shot.

you'll have to work on your immune system anyway, lets not run before we can walk here.....

Nah, I just have to improve my grade when ill. At February I managed 7c+ between pukes, so I haven't got too far to go.

[nik at work]

I'd be up for a re-match with La Puce, splendidly improbable looking and a good crowd pleaser.

[Jim]

pif paf is excellent, even dense had a smile on his face when he did this one. dave is on drugs.
Orgasme cosmique is also very very good.
vin aigra is just plain dirt crimping - don't bother

[a dense loner]

didn't notice on list explosion de bonheur at isatis 7b, excellent. i had a smile on my face that time as well

[Johnny Brown]

Was it because, at last, you'd done a 7 and could take the Scarpa sticker off?