[dave]

from planetfear:  

On Sunday the 9th of November, James Pearson made the third ascent of the Zone at Curbar, After 6 days working the route, and taking one big fall onto the skyhooks, just missing the ground from the crux, He lead the route today, thinking of a grade of E8 6c rather than the original grade of E9 6c.

for anyone who don't know, the 2nd ascent was chris cubitt.

[Bubba]

I think it's disgraceful that these young whippersnappers are doing E8's about six months after starting to do routes - where's the years spent grovelling up muddy VS, serving an apprenticeship like it should be.....bah!

Well done James  :D  :D

What's next?

[dave]

smiling buttress arete?

[james]

Thanks for the praise but I was trying to keep it quiet.  I dont know who sent in the news to planet fear but i didnt ask them to.  I dont feel experienced enough to downgrade the route.  I have asked shane or adrian to change or take it off the site untill i have made up my mind about what to do.
As for whats next, ill have to see what takes my fancy.
Cheers

James

[Bubba]

I guess news travels fast on the Sheffield grapevine.....John Arran was probably watching you with binoculars from Birchin's or something  :wink:

[dave]

someone obviosuly wanted the £5 from planetfear then!

good effort lad - i for one respect people who don't seek enourmous self publicity - there are some climbers i could mention who wouldn't dream fo doing a hard route without an enterage of cameramen, reporters, sponsors logos draped down adjacent routes etc etc etc on the net within the hour etc.

[james]

Everyone has their own feelings and standards.  I dont bulshit about my climbing and that is how it will stay.  If people want to sell themselves to the corporations and make false claims then that is fine by me.  They are only kidding themselves.  It must be pretty hard to wake up every morning and know that all the things that people respect you for are a load of rubbish.
I did have my ascent filmed, mainly because I will have a permenant, real time, reminder of the day.  The same goes for the photos.
I didnt want this on the web until I had made up my mind over a few things but since it has come to light I can only try my best to put accross what I am feeling now.
Cheers

James

[fatboySlimfast]

More importantly James, wat dah fuk is your avatar about :shock:
I thought the one bwfore was disturbing, this one has topped it me thinks!

[squeek]

Good effort James!

[james]

my old one didnt work all the time so I made it my mission to find a new and even better one :wink: .
Cheers

James

[Bubba]

Might have to shrink it a bit though James coz it's massive! (I can do this later btw)

[T.H.]

F**KIN Hell James,

When did you start doing all that high stuff?

I was pooing my pants on the big roof at Cul de Chien last week, and that was easy!

Good effort.

[a dense loner]

--good effort lad - i for one respect people who don't seek enourmous self publicity - there are some climbers i could mention who wouldn't dream fo doing a hard route without an enterage of cameramen, reporters, sponsors logos draped down adjacent routes etc etc etc on the net within the hour etc.--

call me a cynic, in fact call me what you want but the news of this route being done was on the net within the hour. the fact that ben pritchard, who for those of you that don't know is a producer of climbing films, just happened to be walking along curbar with his video camera on the days when james was on the route would make someone think that although not seeking publicity he will become immortalised in film by coincidence!

when you say you didn't want it on the web until you've made your mind up over a few things, what are you talking about? you've done the third ascent of a route.

good effort on the route. shit line hard climbing.

i too respect people who don't seek enormous self publicity.

[james]

Yeah,
Ben asked me a few weeks ago If I would let him film me if I did anything hard.  I didnt have a problem with it so told him I would ring him if I had anything planned.  I am realy looking forward to seeing it on video, most of the time it is over and you can never get the moment back but this way I have something to look back on.

I could have quite easily have logoed myself up to the eyeballs but I didnt, just some plain black trousers and a plain greeny grey top.

I could just as easily spread it over the whole web and completey bulled up the story to make it seem extra special.

The fact that I didnt even want it online should tell you something.

Someone obviously wanted a fiver and gave the news to PF.  I was gutted when I saw it and asked Shane and Adrian to edit it or take it off line.  He added a quote from my email to it which was better than the original but not what I had planned.  I wanted time to think and talk with the apropriate people before anything as drastic as downgradeing was sugested.

Shit line, great moves.

Cheers

James

[tommytwotone]

James, got to say nice one both on the ascent and your attitude - a old head on yound shoulders methinks.

Regardless of the grade malarkey, the fact remains you nailed an ascent of a stick 'ard route. Good on ya, and long may it continue.

Oh yeah, and if you need a PR man I can be contracted out for reasonable rates