[clgladiator]

Have recently been watching the tour de france and have been inspired by how hard those guys train and want to apply this to my training. I've been wondering though after a hard days bouldering is it beneficial to jump on the pull up bar and edge?
Also the next day or two when you have DOMS is it good to train through DOMS? Will this make me stronger or am I justified in wussing out with the excuse of 'overtraining'?

[andy higginson]

My observation (from distance/endurance sports training and weight training rather than climbing-specific training) is that muscle soreness is something which is only really a problem when you are untrained, or starting out on an unfamiliar training programme. Once you reach a certain level of fitness you can train once or twice every day without experiencing much muscle soreness, particularly if you mix up training intensities appropriately. The obvious proviso would be that you have to build up fairly gradually to that level of training or you'll get injured.

[webbo]

also cycling is a very low impact sport provided you don't crash.

[clgladiator]

I did actually try a training session after a days bouldering the other day, and found i had little strength or skin left sao the training was of little value, only managing a couple of uneven pull ups and some OAPU's and Ab-Wheel.

[Nibile]

gladiator,
your training frequency largely depends on your overall level of fitness and your training habits. i think one of the most important things is to learn to seriously understand your body. it's hard to tell if you can or can't have a good training session on doms. probably yes, if you choose your excercises wisely.
given my past experience i'd say that that it's always a safe bet to have one more rest day rather than one less.
think long term.

[Eddies]

TWFH suggests 2 hardcore sessions in a row followed by 2 days rest.
http://stuff.mit.edu/afs/sipb/user/yandros/doc/TWFH.html

I generaly find that the soreness goes once im warmed up, if you dont just go steady!

[Clart]

Eddies, have you followed TWFH? I've inadvertently been doing something not dissimilar with 20 reps. I'd be curious to know if you (or anyone else who has tried it) noticed positive benefits related to climbing? I'm resting from an A3 pop at the mo and the cycle seems to take the same time as my projected recovery.

[Eddies]

Ive been doing a watered down version as im saving my self for climbing but will be getting fully involved when the nights draw in.
Cant say im looking forward to it but it will be interesting!

[Clart]

Interesting certainly. I might try it next week and report back, assuming I survive.

[Jeff25]

Clart,

I did TWFH for two winter seasons quite early on in my climbing life when access to a wall was hard to come by but had good access to a proper weights gym.

My thoughts from the top of my head (for what theyre worth):
1. Alot of pain - 30reps is insane burn.
2. Really dead tired, aching body after the sessions (eg. lifting a key to unlock a door was tough!)
3. I was a bit used to weights before i started but it still took me a long time to dial into the first phase.
4. I did arms and shoulders Mon and Wed and Tits and back on tue and Friday meaning i could kinda struggle through a climb at the weekend with some sort of pride.
5. Doesn't do abs, or other 'core' things like thighs so muscle mass gains are minimal. did some aerobic work on most days - get the blood going etc.

Gains
1. Max strength or power not improved that much (first time I did it)
2. Endurance went through the roof to a manic level!
3. Second time round I extended the strength phase at the end slightly and binned the 'bring it all together' phase.
4. Would recomend it, especially if you've not done weights before but would target strength more - especially for bouldering