[Charles]

Didn't find much on the search so thought I'd ask, but please point me in the direction of appropriate topics I may have missed!

I've injured my ring and middle fingers on my left hand by open handing the pocket on Powerband without warming up. I'm not entirely sure what I've done; it hurts to open hand but not to crimp, and the pain is down the back of the finger, mainly around the first knuckle (i.e. nearest the tip).

I that whatever I've done the advice will be to rest and use cold water treatment (which I am doing as I type!) but I'm wondering what bit is injured and, when I return to climbing at a reduced level, how should I tape the fingers to best support them?

[Charles]

I should add that I have just noticed some crunching and pain in my wrist when I clench my fist? I've done another (better worded) search and found some stuff and thinking maybe it is an A1 pulley injury? Everyone who injured their finger in the same manner I have done seems to have concluded as such.

[GCW]

A1 is in your distal palm, you are talking about the A5 which very rarely gets injured.
When you say "back" do you mean the top of the finger where the nail is?

[Charles]

Yes, it hurts on top from the first knuckle to the base of the finger.

[GCW]

Sounds like an extensor unit strain, which is a bit odd on pockets- although I guess lumbricals can be involved.

My usual advise applies, sorry.

[Charles]

With cold water treatment, is it best to do it a couple of times a day or more often?

I mean, will it be more effective if you do it more often?

[GCW]

Use it as often as you want as long as you don't give yourself frostbite.

It's aimed at reducing the initial inflammation that you get with injury.  Certianly, cold treatment more often will reduce initial inflammation.  Will it improve outcome long term?  Dunno.

[Charles]

I thought cold water treatment was used to increase the blood flow to the fingers to encourage repair rather than to reduce the inflammation? 

[slackline]

I thought cold water treatment was used to increase the blood flow to the fingers to encourage repair rather than to reduce the inflammation?  

When an area of your skin is cold your body reduces the blood flow to the region through vasoconstriction.  When hot blood flow to skin increases due to vasodilation.

Its all to do with thermoregulation and homeostasis in homiotherms and exploiting this knowledge in a localised area (i.e. the fingers).

[GCW]

It's a degree of both- you don't want too much inflammatory response, but cyclical cooling can improve local blood flow.  Allegedly.

[Probes]

Yes, it hurts on top from the first knuckle to the base of the finger.

May seem strange but i have done a similar thing recently, trainin monos on a cellar board.. 4 me it was actually was a strain of the ligaments down the side of my finger, which appeared to hurt on the top of finger. Like stretchin the bones apart on my finger. M b the same thing?

[Charles]

It could be. There's nothing painful to touch in my finger, just aggravated by open handing or pinching. Or even day to day things like squeezing the dregs of the shower gel!

How did you tape your finger to support the ligaments? If at all?

[Teaboy]

It sounds very similat to something I've done, the knuckle of my finger swelled up and I couldn't fully bend it. It was noticably sore when carrying thing, palm up with fingers extend (as you would an open laptop). Best guess I had for it was a stress fracture. Rested for about 6 weeks and it imporved a little so I started climbing again some regression but I'll crry on for a while.