[Ackbar]

I leave Sheffield at the end of September.  Well I'm actually leaving the country (for Austria).  So here is the thing.  I have a few months of grit stone bouldering left.  I need to use this time well.  Could anyone suggest some font 7as or 7a+s in the Burbage area.  I have tried all the ones in the guidebooks.  Actually hemline was the only one I got up and I have given up on the rest.  I was looking at the "Peak 7 & 8s" list and noticed lots of 7as and 7a+ that are not in the guides but am not sure 1) which ones are worth going for and 2) where they are.  So any suggestions (and directions)?  "He’s So Derrick - 7a+" in lawerencefield sounds interesting.  Any good?  Where is it?

Cheers.  I'll miss this place. 

Rich

[r-man]

He's so Derick is one of mine. It's a technical wall climb, with good moves, but it is esoteric, and I'm not sure it's been climbed since I did it (people keep telling me they couldn't find it.) Walk past the pool area and follow the lower tier to its end (2-3min) where it culminates in a small bay. Climb the face at the end of the bay, without the aretes (or the large crimp on the left arete). The footblock is also out. Once at the break, top out via jugs on the right arete.



Some that I've enjoyed - you might have tried a few if you've been looking in the BMC guides as well as bouldering guides.

Small is Beautiful at B.North. Climbs the slightly overhanging highball wall left of the Remergence Area. Big moves between breaks. 7A. http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=3155.0

Just Walkin' - Sheepfold - The left side of the front of the buttress to a shallow scoop on the top. 7A http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=11354.0

Dog's Arse LH - B.South - sitstart and layback the left arete of the bum crack. Burly. 7A. Not as good as the others, but I was surprised there was a 7A at B.south I hadn't seen before.

DIY - Stanage - Not that hard, but brilliant.

Burbage Oddment - Burbage North - http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=10716.0

[dave]

I leave Sheffield at the end of September. 

I have a few months of grit stone bouldering left. 

sounds to me like you have about 2 weeks of grit bouldering left!

[nai]

Hi mate, can't believe you've done Hemline but can't do any others, I can't touch Hemline.

Puck Sit Start (burbage boulders) is apparently 7a+ but felt easy for that, quite nice though and probably ok as long as you avoid trying it when the sun's full on the slopey finishing pocks, when even the standup will feel desperate.

[Ackbar]

Thanks for the suggestions.  I'll be sure to check them out as soon as possible.  I like the look of roofless people as well (it's my kind of thing).  I can't wait to do battle with the acid-spitting ants down at Lawerencefield as well.

[Joe_M]

Have yout tried the Buckstone Dyno? It was one of my first grit 7s and it should be ok in the summer heat...

[dave k]

Have yout tried the Buckstone Dyno? It was one of my first grit 7s and it should be ok in the summer heat...

Thats 7b isn`t it and I reckon catching the finishing sloper is much less than ok in the summer heat.

Well done on climbing Hem Line- surely you have not tried every other quality 7a/7a+ in the guide and been sent packing on all of them.

Why don't you tell us the style of grit problems that suit you (slopers, fingery) and you could get some tailored suggestions and some beta.  Also whether you are short arse or lanky or neither.

[Bonjoy]

Funny one Hemline. I’ve heard of people starting at the correct point but rather than doing the start of Shit to reach the break, traversing left and using the foothold on Shit as a handhold to get into the end bit of Hemline. This isn’t a 7 by a long way. Unsurprisingly this variant has become quite a few people’s first ‘7’.

[dave]

yeah thats what we did before it was clear what hemline was. i would have thought that for anyone that can do true hemline there must be a shit load of low-hanging-7a fruit ripe for picking in the peak.

[Ackbar]

OK, I like crimpy problems wall problems, but am best at overhanging problems (I've done Tom's roof and Mark's roof LH and done green traverse and purple haze in two parts but can't link.  And I did all quiet direct to the traverse line but was then too scared to continue).  I am 168cm so I guess that is short ass status.

I did hemline by getting myself established on the two finger pockets (under the roof), then crossing over the right hand so that I was matched on the left hand pocket.  Then reached up for intermediate crimp with left hand, worked feet along the foot ledge then threw up a heel hook on to the scoop.  Finally lunge up with left to the hold in the small break and then up with right to the big hold at the begining of piss.  Seemed like the obvious line.  Great problem.

[r-man]

Except apparently TRUE true hemline (ie. not the problem that anyone climbs) was originally conceived as a lip traverse from right to left:

Hemline doesn't use any holds under the lip. It traverses the slopey lip with feet in the back.

did this with rich heap years ago (i think whilst filming hard grit) and think it was never written up properly in any of the guides. We always thought it would be good if you could turn the lip when 1st matched on it. seemed improbable but not impossible

Ackbar, if you've done it like this, you done what most people think of as Hemline, and 7a+:

http://vimeo.com/groups/4295/videos/3947208

[highrepute]

Except apparently TRUE true hemline (ie. not the problem that anyone climbs) was originally conceived as a lip traverse from right to left:

  so just to clarify TRUE hemline would be starting at the back with the jams and reaching right straight for the lip, then hands traverse the lip from right to left while feet are at the back still? Does this still get 7a/+? Has anyone done it since andy and rich in 1998?

I noticed that the description in the rockfax bouldering guide could be conceived as the TRUE hemline but the description was bad, hence the confusion I guess.

Ackbar, if you've done Hemline you'd romp up any number of grit 7a's. The Nose being a nice one, and I thought fairly easy using short persons beta. Out of interest, how did you do the finish to hemline (i.e. sick) as you are a similar height to me

[cofe]

yeah thats what we did before it was clear what hemline was.

was i there word, cos that's not what i did?

[dave]

nah when i first did it it was after the day after that busa in nottingham 2001? kim + dunnett etc.

[cofe]

didn't think so. anyway good problem - Ackbar should do it.

[Ackbar]

 Ackbar, if you've done Hemline you'd romp up any number of grit 7a's. The Nose being a nice one, and I thought fairly easy using short persons beta. Out of interest, how did you do the finish to hemline (i.e. sick) as you are a similar height to me
[/quote]


I did hemline as in the video, except on the finish (sick) I put both feet on the left and had my hands on the big holds on the right (so kind of bridged) and then reached up from there.  Strangely it took me about It took me quite a few goes to do the finish, much longer than to do what is susposed to be the crux.

Anyway, that is enough about hemline (or pseudohemline)

[tommytwotone]

Breakfast (though I should add it could result in extreme frustration and throwing a tiff when you're there on your own - or that could just me me...)

That slab thing up the hill from the walk out of Burb South is flava, but might be an effort in the heat.

[dontfollowme]

Attitude Inspector seems a bit of a gift at Burbage South.

[nai]

Attitude Inspector seems a bit of a gift at Burbage South.

Not for the short it aint.