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Small is Beautiful, Burb N (Read 1772 times)

RopeBoy

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Small is Beautiful, Burb N
October 24, 2004, 10:48:23 pm
The highball in the wall just to the left of Remergence, to the right of the Grogan and Pulcherrime. A John Allen route from the '80's, given E3 6c in the old Froggatt guide and E4 6c(/b depending on the finish) in PGE.

http://www.rockfax.com/databases/results_route.html?id=1002

Opinions on the grade and finish?

A lovely low down move with a highball finish, I failed on the lower move but the rest of the team made it quite easily but declined topping out due to the 'minging' state of the rock this morning.

You could pop a harness on for this one and get a friend in the top break but I'm sure in better conditions it would be fine.

Odd that given it's proximity to Remergence it doesn't seem to get the traffic especially as it gets a star (albeit as a route).

J

Nigel

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#1 Small is Beautiful, Burb N
October 25, 2004, 12:16:01 am
Have to agree with the comment on the database - the top moves are never 6c, or even 6b. The breaks are good as long as you get the right bits. The hardest bit is the first move which isn't 6c either. Overall about V5/Font 6c+ in new money. A pretty cool problem.  :8)

Jim

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#2 Small is Beautiful, Burb N
October 25, 2004, 06:54:14 am
The top out is no way 6c or 6b. Its not too bad. although saying that I nearly fell off and shat myself (although not as much as fatboy who was spotting me at the time) You seem to slink left wards for the finish?
The crux is matching the poor first break. I found the first move quite easy and could do it every time but took me a while to do the match in the break. After this they are all big holds to the top. The feet get a bit sugary near the top. I've heard it gets V5 but I recon more like 6/7 for me.

fatboySlimfast

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#3 Small is Beautiful, Burb N
October 25, 2004, 08:43:59 am
ive heard talk of people starting to the right of the undercut and topping out on the right as well. The top is interesting to say the least and yes i did shit myself when u topped out Jim!
I would say round V6 overall wit the cheeky finish

 

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