[Andy F]

I'm heading down that way with the family on 31/7 of this year. I'll be around for a week and would like to get a bit in. If anyone knows of somewhere decent within say,  1/2hr drive I'd be much obliged.

Alternatively if someone knows the area and would like to meet up that would be even better 

Thanks in advance.

[deacon]

Roche is probably your nearest place although it's pretty limited tbh. The delights of Carn Brea, Clodgy and Godrevy are around 45-60 minutes away. Carn Brea has great views over Cornwall and Godrevy has a nice beach, all three are worth a visit.
Sorry if you already know about these venues.

[Andy F]

Cheers for that Deacon. As I've not bouldered down that way any info is glady recieved.

[deacon]

Have a read through these mate, loads of info


http://www.blocspenwith.co.uk/
http://www.javu.co.uk/

[uptown]

Check out Downderry if you can, nice beach setting with a great shuffle. Low tide would be best yet fun with a swell too. http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1215
I went there loads when I was at St. Austell. Great pasty shops near Fowey. mmm.

[SA Chris]

Helman Tor is not too far away. Not the most amazing spot, but has a few problems in a beautiful setting, with great views. Suitable for family to enjoy picnic, or nip out on an evening. http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=2479.

There are a few bouldering spots on bodmin moor, there was an article by Dave Bendy in an old OTE, buggered if I can recall which, will have a look for you.

Here is some amusing giffing for you to enjoy from the last time anyone asked the question, and some old links http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=5194.0

[Andy F]

Got to Helman, found it hideously sharp and knarly. Did some stuff on the beach at Newquay, to the east of Fistral beach, in a cove below a big hotel. Steep roof action on mostly big holds, which were well chalked. Anyone know about the place?

[SA Chris]

Got to Helman, found it hideously sharp and knarly.

Limestone fingered puff.

[Andy F]

Got to Helman, found it hideously sharp and knarly.

Limestone fingered puff.

 

[A Jooser]

Got to Helman, found it hideously sharp and knarly. Did some stuff on the beach at Newquay, to the east of Fistral beach, in a cove below a big hotel. Steep roof action on mostly big holds, which were well chalked. Anyone know about the place?

Sounds like you went to Little Fistral at Newquay. A nice spot and reasonable bouldering for anyone who might be in the area but I wouldn’t have thought it worth driving all the way from Fowey for (passing Helman?!). That sharp moorland granite must really have put the wind up you!

Little Fistral got a mention on this thread… http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=7584.0

A bit more about it can be found online via these links…
http://magicrock.blog.co.uk/2008/05/08/fistral-fun-4149819/
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=8934

[Andy F]

I just happened to be at Newquay for the day and just happened to spot Little Fistral and as I just happened to have my slippers in my bag I snuck off and had an hour or so's play. There did appear to be on hard problem there, a sit start into some thin sidepulls just right of the cave. Greasy conditions and no spotter meant I didn't give it a proper go, but it did look good. Any idea what it may be?

[A Jooser]

Nope, sorry I don’t know what that would be. I’ve only bouldered there a few times. A friend of mine from Newquay has mentioned a project there; maybe that was it. Actually I think only one or two people climb there regularly so it’s a bit of a no-names-no-numbers place.

I guess one of the harder problems must be going straight through that big roof in the middle of the long wall at the western end of the beach. Rumour has it this was climbed by a certain visiting Bristol-based loon, formerly of the parish of Llanberis – but like I said no-names-no-numbers.

Let me offer my commiseration to you for having the misfortune of finding yourself in Newquay for the day! Were I in the same position I would have certainly escaped to Little Fistral too. I hope you enjoyed the rest of your stay in Cornwall.

[Andy F]

I guess one of the harder problems must be going straight through that big roof in the middle of the long wall at the western end of the beach. Rumour has it this was climbed by a certain visiting Bristol-based loon, formerly of the parish of Llanberis – but like I said no-names-no-numbers.

Funny you mention that as I did do a good problem through a roof about 15ft right of the cave. From sitter on two crimps move up to two more then pop to long slopey ledge. Rock upto to pocket in the roof with your RH, then again to a slot. LH to a reverse pocket then upto juggy rail. Felt about 6c/+ but as I'm crap at grading problems it could be anything.

The roof problem your talking about isn't by any chance the obvious highball at the seaward end of the beach, looking like a backwards dyno to holds on the lip, as there's none in the roof?

[A Jooser]

The roof problem your talking about isn't by any chance the obvious highball at the seaward (main Fistral Beach?) end of the beach, looking like a backwards dyno to holds on the lip, as there's none in the roof?

It may well be, but as is often the case I’m not really sure what I’m talking about! Highball backwards dyno sounds about right. A few years ago I did a problem on the same roof left of centre, hanging back off a good hold to reach the lip – no backward dyno shenanigans needed. But the one I’m talking about is straight through the middle, or so I’ve been told…

[ben]

Andy/Jooser - There's loads of directs through pretty much every part of that wall, plus a good R-L traverse of the whole wall.  The roof at its widest point was indeed done by said visiting loon and had been repeated lots of time since. It's committing rather than hard really, especially as there's a bit of a protruding ledge below.

I've tried the sit start into small sidepulls you mention Andy a few times, i haven't done it but last time i was there it was well brushed so it may well have been done, i guess V7/8ish?

[Idol eyes]

Down stairs at Bosigran if your like highball aretes...

[Andy F]

I've tried the sit start into small sidepulls you mention Andy a few times, i haven't done it but last time i was there it was well brushed so it may well have been done, i guess V7/8ish?

Looked more towards the V8 end IMHO.