[dave]

Its been suggested the people with a vested interest get together sometime soon and try it, then devise a plan.... (i.e. Keith, Paul, Ted, Rob, Simon, Stu.....possibly others???)

the problem with just taking the opinions of those with a vested interest is that, almost by deffinition, you're unlikely going to get a balanced view. Those with a real vested interest are anyone who might want to try the route in the future, in years to come, and future generations. They who we owe it to to get this right, not just todays players. It might be heartbreaking to see your redpoint slide off into oblivion but they might have to just take one for the team. I'd also be wary of putting too much bias taking the opinion of someone who's, say for example, the wadfather of british sport climbing and has done the route countless of times and thus guessing if its 8b+ or 8c is in effect trying to estimate if he had to use 8.3% or 8.4% of his potential maximum output.

I think klemmow was on it last night too, although i wasn't particularly paying attention.

this discussion is probably academic though having seen the state of the block. you'd have more luck trying to reassamble air france flight 447.

[Jaspersharpe]

Wise words mate.

[dave]

shit i really need to get some bachman turner overdrive on my phone.

[Dolly]

I think klemmow was on it last night too

He was on Make it Funky but gently caressing the Mecca block whilst it was on the floor

[Bonjoy]

He did also try the start of Mecca. He mentioned these moves would now be the crux. It looked hard.

[Andy Harris]

I'm in a speculative mood.

I've yet to see the bits but i'm already of the opinion that the old Mecca is dead. It's seems too big / complex a job likely to result in a sika abomination that would ultimately be unsafe.

Other routes have lost big holds and become harder (Chimes, Lockless etc). It's just a shame if said route was at your limit.

Whilst I've not seen the new climbing my guess would be that if it's missing 4 big jugs and a bomber footlock it will be sig. harder. Can't for a moment believe it's not 8c. Sounds like harder climbing into the original RH crimp and i imagine a v.hard move off this to the next crimp. Then it should be identical.

Originally the start into these 2 crimps probably weighed in at around Font 7a/+. My guess would be 7b-c?

[T_B]

I can't help but think those looking for a F8c project in the Peak, who don't fancy the razorblade and mono on Make it Funky, are rubbing their hands together with glee.

I feel for those people close to redpoint success, but in the grand scheme of things...

[north_country_boy]

I'd also be wary of putting too much bias taking the opinion of someone who's, say for example, the wadfather of british sport climbing and has done the route countless of times and thus guessing if its 8b+ or 8c is in effect trying to estimate if he had to use 8.3% or 8.4% of his potential maximum output.

this discussion is probably academic though having seen the state of the block. you'd have more luck trying to reassamble air france flight 447.

I totally agree with that, however the people with a current vested interest and long standing knowledge of the route are best placed to know how much difference the loss of teh blocks will make.

I personally agree with Andy, i can't believe it won't make a very significant differance to the grade given that it will add potentially two hard moves, onto an already stiff 8b+....

But as you say its all academic if the blocks can't realistically go back on.......

[Stu Littlefair]

I do love the difference in opinion between Christian and Steve.

Hopefully I can get out there tomorrow and have a look. From my own point of view, I kind of hope it has gone up to 8c... 

[corniceman]

Looks like those that cant wait are alraedy rubbing their hands in glee at the prospect. If someone does the moves this weekend my guess is the blocks will never be glued back on. I await with interest from the sidelines of Weedkiller Chimes.
8c!! now thats very tempting, might even have to start doing some proper training again!!

Simon

[cofe]

Steve repeated Mecca, and then did it again with the Mecca extension, yesterday.

of course he did. flipping heck.

[Ru]

Seems like its all going back on.

[cowboyhat]

Any updates on this expected 'going back on'?

[Adam Lincoln]

Any updates on this expected 'going back on'?

Certainly looked 'in the process of' last Friday. Looking pretty neat so far. Though has the block been taken away, as doesn't seem much left on the floor to put back on?

[cowboyhat]

No change then.

Keith took the blocks away in his car.

[north_country_boy]

Almost done, the main blocks are on and the others will go on this weekend i suspect. Then its just teh process of finishing the surrounding area......watch this space, needless to say anyone wanting top try it....Hold fire until the reconstruction crew have finished.....Cheers

[slackline]

Almost done, the main blocks are on and the others will go on this weekend i suspect. Then its just teh process of finishing the surrounding area......watch this non-space, needless to say anyone wanting top try it....Hold fire until the reconstruction crew have finished.....Cheers

 

[cowboyhat]

Is it actually climbable yet?

[account_inactive]

The holds are back in place, but there are some big gaps left to fill in I think.  Looks a good job

[north_country_boy]

Is it actually climbable yet?

Not quite, unfortunately Mr Sharples has been completing an equally impressive restoration of his front bedroom window lintels!!

I believe Kristian was heading there over the weekend to do some more.....

[shark]

Seeing as it seems to have passed unmentioned....

Props to Pig 

Despite those who said it wasn't possible Kris has meticulously restored the hold using £60 of glue and using up quite a number of evenings - probably the equivalent effort of rebolting and cleaning 10 routes. 

[Bonjoy]

Good effort Kris! I'm sure it'll be a pro job.

....probably the equivalent effort of rebolting and cleaning 10 routes. 

Unless Kris spent 10 long evenings fixing the route then I think that's rather an exaggeration. Ask Kris how long it took him to rebolt the Tor.

[shark]

I've told you a million times not to underexaggerate. You ask when you see him too - it did his swede in.



(Equivalent effort is not the same as time spent)