UKBouldering.com

Eastern Edges Today (Read 803050 times)

Stabbsy

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 767
  • Karma: +52/-0
#2850 Re: Eastern Edges Today
February 23, 2024, 12:14:53 pm
Nothing specific as I’ve never bouldered there (soloed a few things some years ago). I guess stuff round Dragon’s Den and The 87 Bus were on the initial hitlist, but I’d settle for dry rock and a few high 6s/low 7s!

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2806
  • Karma: +135/-3
#2851 Re: Eastern Edges Today
February 23, 2024, 12:23:40 pm
87 Bus seeps in the left hand start hold so I'd expect that to be wet.

Droyd

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 113
  • Karma: +40/-0
#2852 Re: Eastern Edges Today
February 23, 2024, 12:33:17 pm
I would put money on Pointy Block Problem and Up to a Point, which are below the main crag (Himmelswillen area), being dry. The Cardinal and Facetime Continuum could well be, as might Grunne Holle/Way Down in the Hole. Although conditions could be a bit crap, particularly for the latter, as the slots have a tendency to feel a bit slimy and are hard to brush (toothbrush recommended). Grunne Holle has an obvious 'stand' (i.e. not climbing out of the pit) start from the mid-height break that is probably worth around 6C.


Stabbsy

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 767
  • Karma: +52/-0
#2853 Re: Eastern Edges Today
February 23, 2024, 07:09:28 pm
Thanks all, we’ll probably give it a go then.

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13453
  • Karma: +679/-67
  • Whut
#2854 Re: Eastern Edges Today
February 23, 2024, 08:16:27 pm
Further recommendations would include:

Nazi Turtles 7A - detached block and will dry instantly
Wharnside Story 6C / Microaggression 6C - close together and don't seem that dank
Kobe Arete 6C - easy and amazing, death landing should be ignorable if you climb 6C upwards
Platitude Inspector ""7A"" / Plongitude Inspector ""6B+"" - again nicely open and easy to access
Bass Roch Arete LH 6C / RH 7A - separate block and LH is reasonably open

(I've not done the 7s off that list)

87 Bus block is so fucking seepy you might as well Call The Fucking Lime to go there.

« Last Edit: February 23, 2024, 08:25:27 pm by Fiend »

Johnny Brown

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 11442
  • Karma: +693/-22
#2855 Re: Eastern Edges Today
February 23, 2024, 09:08:59 pm
Plongitude 😂 I’d forgotten about that.

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13453
  • Karma: +679/-67
  • Whut
#2856 Re: Eastern Edges Today
February 23, 2024, 10:21:48 pm
It's a good couple of moves. Took me many attempts albeit the first session was with my left knee still feeling a bit gammy.

Dingdong

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 579
  • Karma: +42/-9
#2857 Re: Eastern Edges Today
February 24, 2024, 08:23:34 am
Im 15 mins from wharncliffe, lovely sunny and frosty morning, I reckon wharny could be good on most stuff today. Exposed crags will definitely be in good connies though, have a great day everyone!

Stabbsy

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 767
  • Karma: +52/-0
#2858 Re: Eastern Edges Today
February 25, 2024, 10:16:13 am
Conditions weren't amazing yesterday, but plenty of things dry. It would be tough to find some of the problems without either the Rockfax app (which we had) or the GPS co-ordinates on UKC. Casu Marzu/87 Bus were damp, but Platitude/Plongitude, Very Active Badgers, Snakes on a Plain, Nazi Turtle, Micro Aggression/Wharnside all dry. There were people on Grune Holle/Mur de Mystery block and that looked fine as well. Didn't venture any further, but there were people who had done stuff further north along the edge. No idea about Dragon's Den.

From an access perspective, there were a fair few people going over the fence behind the lay-by and cutting across to the footpath, which I don't think is access land. Not sure if it's worth mentioning in the UKC access notes or similar as the fence is starting to get a bit damaged - seems to be an "in vogue" crag at the minute, lay-by full, few cars on the verge, a few more on the next side road. It would be a shame to piss off the farmer to save 5 minutes walk.

Droyd

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 113
  • Karma: +40/-0
#2859 Re: Eastern Edges Today
February 25, 2024, 11:02:47 am
Glad you found some dry rock and had a good day.

As regards the fence, it's somewhat understandable given the obvious alternative is to walk 250 m south from the layby back along Woodhead Road. I've found that pretty sketchy due to the speed people drive and the lack of pavement - it's particularly bad as there's a bit of a blind bend as you approach the path that doubles back into the woods, which isn't a nice place to be with a pad on your back when people are caning it from both directions.

I agree that hopping over the fence isn't a good look though: I think the best thing to do is walk 50 m north from the layby, turn left up Rough Lane, walk 250 m along that to the bend, and head left into the field there. As far as I can tell that's all fine access-wise, but it may be a hard sell for people given you basically do three sides of a square rather than hopping over a knackered, knee-height bit of barbed wire and then do one side of the square...

Stabbsy

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 767
  • Karma: +52/-0
#2860 Re: Eastern Edges Today
February 25, 2024, 12:06:04 pm
I agree that hopping over the fence isn't a good look though: I think the best thing to do is walk 50 m north from the layby, turn left up Rough Lane, walk 250 m along that to the bend, and head left into the field there. As far as I can tell that's all fine access-wise, but it may be a hard sell for people given you basically do three sides of a square rather than hopping over a knackered, knee-height bit of barbed wire and then do one side of the square...

This is what we did - there’s a verge all the way and less sketchy than the alternative. It’s all on PRoW so no issues from an access perspective. I struggle to see it as a hard sell for 5 mins extra.

jshaw

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 138
  • Karma: +4/-0
#2861 Re: Eastern Edges Today
February 28, 2024, 03:33:55 pm
I have an unexpected day off tomorrow. If anyone is passing through the Peak tomorrow morning, please could you post a conditions report to help me decide if it'll be worth the drive over from Manchester?

nik at work

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3589
  • Karma: +312/-2
#2862 Re: Eastern Edges Today
February 28, 2024, 07:04:32 pm
I’ll give you a how it looks in Hathersage as I leave for work at 7, usual caveats apply…

Johnny Brown

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 11442
  • Karma: +693/-22
#2863 Re: Eastern Edges Today
February 28, 2024, 08:43:35 pm
I’ve just been orienteering at Burbage South boulders. Cloud base at 350m, so thick wet fog on the edges, everything drenched. Strong southerly wind, will need to improve overnight…

nik at work

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3589
  • Karma: +312/-2
#2864 Re: Eastern Edges Today
February 29, 2024, 07:13:08 am
Low cloud at 6am, murky morning. Cloud has lifted a bit but still damp air, ground and wall wet, very still.

If cloud continues to lift it could dry, but don’t anticipate mint conditions tbh.

Could be wrong though…

jshaw

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 138
  • Karma: +4/-0
#2865 Re: Eastern Edges Today
February 29, 2024, 09:49:23 am
Greatly appreciated, thank you!

danm

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 829
  • Karma: +112/-1
#2866 Re: Eastern Edges Today
February 29, 2024, 06:12:04 pm
Looked a bit drier at 4pm along Stanage but crag still empty and mostly black. Tomorrow's forecast looks fairly bleak!

remus

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2890
  • Karma: +146/-1
#2867 Re: Eastern Edges Today
February 29, 2024, 06:15:17 pm
Stretching the definition of eastern edges but wharncliffe was good today.

spidermonkey09

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2830
  • Karma: +159/-4
#2868 Re: Eastern Edges Today
March 02, 2024, 12:38:17 pm
What's the general state of play in the Peak today? Considering my options for tomorrow.

stone

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 588
  • Karma: +45/-2
#2869 Re: Eastern Edges Today
March 02, 2024, 12:48:51 pm
My thinking was that today (a sodden mess in Glossop and on "Derbyshire webcams") has little bearing on hopes for tomorrow. My impression is that snow today is minimal and only on the highest tops and will melt back before tomorrow afternoon.

I'm happy to be corrected though.

For tomorrow, I'm toying between Froggart if things seem more hopeful and Roche Abbey if hopeless.


stone

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 588
  • Karma: +45/-2
#2870 Re: Eastern Edges Today
March 02, 2024, 12:54:57 pm
tomorrow's forecast for Hathersage (and similarly for eg Leek) looks promising to me https://www.metoffice.gov.uk/weather/forecast/gcqz6kgdx#?nearestTo=Hathersage%20(Derbyshire)&date=2024-03-03

spidermonkey09

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2830
  • Karma: +159/-4
#2871 Re: Eastern Edges Today
March 02, 2024, 03:13:06 pm
Only a slight breeze and no sun after a soaking though. Based on that I wouldn't expect much to be dry before midday.

Johnny Brown

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 11442
  • Karma: +693/-22
#2872 Re: Eastern Edges Today
March 02, 2024, 05:30:46 pm
Wind was getting up, sky clearing and little snow left on the edges at dusk. I’m hopeful.

nik at work

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3589
  • Karma: +312/-2
#2873 Re: Eastern Edges Today
March 02, 2024, 06:41:50 pm
Don’t get too hopeful, I’m currently struggling to light a barbeque in the rain…


spidermonkey09

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2830
  • Karma: +159/-4
#2874 Re: Eastern Edges Today
March 02, 2024, 06:53:46 pm
A morning "out the window" report from those in the Hathersage area would be much appreciated!

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal