[Stabbsy]

Drove past Burbage Bridge at various points today, low cloud and everything looked soaked, although did see someone walking back from Higgar with a pad so maybe the Leaning Block was climbable? Looked less clagged in further south.

[jshaw]

Looking to get outside tomorrow (hopefully Stanage). How're the Eastern Edges faring?

[remus]

At curbar at the mo, it's pretty wet (to the extent it's pretty much unclimbable). If the rain holds off it feels like things will start to dry and might be ok by tomorrow, especially if the wind picks up.

[mark20]

Any reports from today?
Looks similar tomorrow, cloudy, mild humid , but a good breeze so might be ok ? Thanks

[steveri]

Burbage South gopping this morning with recent/overnight rain. Boulders started to come into condition around 12-1, decent breeze and some sun. I had to leave at 2 but imagine the people I was with got a bit done after. I’m happy for them, grr!

[Stabbsy]

Curbar - arrived fashionably late as I was on child duties. Turns out it was perfect timing as things had only just dried up. 90 mins on stuff in and around the Trench. Sky was amazing coming back in to Sheffield.

[Dingdong]

Uh isn’t stuff still gonna be pretty damp underneath the top layer? I assume it’s gonna need a few more days to dry out

[Bradders]

Uh isn’t stuff still gonna be pretty damp underneath the top layer? I assume it’s gonna need a few more days to dry out

It's much more nuanced than that (isn't everything?). If things have been absolutely saturated after lots of heavy rain then this can be more of a problem, but if it's just been damp that's unlikely to have gone through to the lower layers. And with a good dose of sun and particularly wind grit can dry very quickly indeed even when it's been saturated (see Almscliff).

[Dingdong]

Fair enough I’m just aware of stuff (bull flakes, Captain Hook) at stanage has broken recently because the top layer has dried and people have climbed on it even though it’s still quite damp underneath - worth considering on a case by case basis. I walked through burbage north around 11 and everything was still soaked

[spidermonkey09]

Uh isn’t stuff still gonna be pretty damp underneath the top layer? I assume it’s gonna need a few more days to dry out

Even the most ardent respect the rock advocate wouldn't suggest we need to wait for 3 days of dry weather to climb on gritstone. Nobody would ever get out again!

[Dingdong]

Uh isn’t stuff still gonna be pretty damp underneath the top layer? I assume it’s gonna need a few more days to dry out

Even the most ardent respect the rock advocate wouldn't suggest we need to wait for 3 days of dry weather to climb on gritstone. Nobody would ever get out again!

I went around 3 different crags today between 10-12 and absolutely nowhere was dry, at all. Not just damp but soaked through. Obviously you don’t need to wait 3 days but I can’t imagine much would have dried fully before sunset?

[Johnny Brown]

Gritstone is famously quick drying, but yesterday the temperature rise went some way to reducing that. Also the sun is weak at this time of year so you need to pick a venue where the rock is catching both wind and sun, and arrive late in the day. We were at Crook Hill at 3-4pm, conditions were mint.

[stone]

I know it's not really Eastern Edges (more Far Eastern Pits), but yesterday at Anston most things were streaming with run off at 10am, more was dry at 1pm, most was really nice and dry at 3pm.

[mark20]

Fair enough I’m just aware of stuff (bull flakes, Captain Hook) at stanage has broken recently because the top layer has dried and people have climbed on it even though it’s still quite damp underneath -

That is sad to hear. What has broken on Captain Hook, isn't it all just one big chalky hold?

[Dingdong]

Part of the heel snapped off

[galpinos]

Part of the heel snapped off

The starting heel or the main hold you use as a hand early on then a heel for most of it?

[Bonjoy]

A piece about 35x25x15mm broke off the lip.
I was given the broken bit for potential repair but decided it would be better to just stabilise the hold. It's had a number of ascents logged on UKC since I stabilised (superglued) the hold. I don't think it has changed the difficulty.

[mark20]

Great work Jon. Last time I was up there I thought a few things were sadly looking considerably more worn, like this big foothold, also the one on the slot on Zippy's. Do you think it is time to start pre-emptively stabilising holds like these on popular (battered) problems with superglue to stop rapidly accelerating erosion?

[Bonjoy]

I do a bit of that already if I see things that are getting hit hard and look easily stabilised. Even part stabilising can massively slow erosion. That is just a bit of glue down cracks and some dotting on the soft area so it has increased strength without a full layer. Better to underdo it though and maybe add more later than overdo and ruin a hold/problem though.

[shark]

How dry/undry was it out there today?

[Dingdong]

It was soaked today. Was pretty wet yesterday morning too and spoke to some guy cause he was chalking up all the classics at stanage while they were dripping with water. His excuse was “I’m only here for 2 days and it’s rained every day” - I’m not sure how he was expecting to pull onto Victorian overmantel when it’s soaked tbh, it’s hard enough when dry

[Duncan campbell]

Christ what a knob! Judging by that I’m thinking most of the grit will be wet tomorrow. Anyone been out East? Do places like smeaton edge stay fairly ok?

[mark20]

Looks sunnier tomorrow but no wind. I'm not too hopeful, so will most likely go for a walk. Sunday looks like lower humidity and a better NE wind so if it doesn't wet out overnight it might be decent.

The slab part of Smeaton will be piss wet I expect. Elysium should be OK though - great problem.
I went to Anston last weekend but there was alot of runoff and only a couple of full problems were dry. I've never seen it so wet. But I heard that Church Crag was OK (good backup if Elysium is wet?) and apparently Beef Buttress at Roche should be reliable 

[hstmoore]

We went to Anston (Wave Wall) yesterday at midday. It was lovely in the warm sunshine but the rock was completely wet with run off, as Mark described. Only one or two problems were climbable. I would guess that it dried off by the end of the day/was dry today but not sure.

[stone]

Mark saying above that he thought the grit would be wet today caused me to have a bit of a dither. It is wall to wall blue sky in Glossop at the moment but the roads etc are wet.

Last Monday I went to Anstons when Mark was there and there was a lot of wet. I still had a good day though. I went to Beef Buttress Roache Abbey on Thursday because people had said that is perma-dry. There were wet bits even there but also enough dry rock.

However today is rare in that the forecast is brighter for Hope and Bakewell than for Worksop and Doncaster. I sort of feel I ought to make an effort to get on grit a bit but don't want to find it wet.  Hmmmmm