[deacon]

Hi all, was wondering if anyone knew of a private woodie in this area, that wouldn't mind someone else (me) using it. Obviously willing to pay towards costs. 


Can't justify paying £90 a month to climb indoors as my local wall doesn't do monthly passes.
I've looked through the board directory but nothing in my area.
Any help would be much appreciated.

Deacon

[i.munro]

If it's easy-ish for you to get to London Bridge the Arch is less than half that per month.

[deacon]

Yeah I live in Sutton so driving up to London Bridge after work would be a nightmare, and a return train ticket would be the best part of a fiver so would end up being more expensive than going to my regular wall. Mind you I do really like London Bridge wall so may start going up there on wet weekends. Now that the weather is getting better I've started getting onto the Sandstone most dry nights as it's only a few quid if you get a couple of people in the car. I'ts pretty frustrating having to climb with a headtorch if I want more than an hours session though. Think I'll have a little google at garage rentals although I reckon it'll be pretty expensive unless I get a large group of people wanting to join in.

[i.munro]

The only other place  I know is Crystal Palace. Haven't been for yonks so don't know what it's like now but
 it used to be pretty cheap.

It's pretty old-skool though but I'd say much better than a board.
The opening hours used to seem pretty erratic but if you're going regularly it might start to make sense.

[matthew]

Craggy Island Sutton do session vouchers. 26 sessions for the price of 20...  I popped into that wall whilst visiting inlaws and nearly choked when they asked for  a tenner to go bouldering.... I'm glad I don't live in the south.

[deacon]

Yeah I  climb at Sutton, Craggy now but it's proving to be too expensive although it's a brilliant wall. I used to climb at crystal palace a while ago but think it was going through a bit of a rough time, had a couple of visits where I turned up after phoning them only to be refused entry once I got there. Think I'll try again next week as if they've sorted the opening hours out it's actually a pretty good wall.

Also just looked into getting a garage to build a woodie and its around £150/ month without electric

[i.munro]

Like I said I've not been to CP for years, partly because of turning up a few times & not being allowed in but in your situation I'd guess it's worth checking out.


You can't win though! I've been trying to work out some quick way of getting down to Sutton after work from London (I can't). I'd be willing to pay more than twice what I currently do if it  means it isn't  too rammed in the evening to be useable.

[deacon]

Seems like we may have different problems on the same theme. I think I'll speak to craggy about alternative pricing schemes but don't think I'll get very far. From a thread of yours on UKC I understand that you dislike walls that are too hot (same here), Sutton has been suffering from this lately but think they are trying to rectify the situation.
 On another note do you know where I can get any info on sandstone bouldering font7a and upwards. Got my first 7a tick there last week on Stinging Nettle 7a+ (although I have managed a few others on grit) and am looking for some more projects. CC guidebook isn't much help and I've heard bad things about the Jingo.

[Dr T]

stinging nettle - just out of interest left hand or right hand start??
well done by the way - tough problem at the grade...

[deacon]

right hand start last week and then left hand start on monday although I don't think one is harder than the other. Andy Valentine has a good video of it on the youtube. Do you know where Slap Happy starts? I've got it from standing but cant get the mono to stick when coming from underneath. I can only use my pinkie due to chubby finger syndrome.

[Jameshs]

I think the only solution this is just to hit the sandstone as i doubt craggy will change there pricing 

Beta on Slap happy would be great.

Congrats on Stinging nettle, i was having a play last night on this and it almost went just getting stuck at the slap, any tips? do you drop your heel off when you have the 2 crimps or do you keep it there? as i seem to be keeping it there and still not catching the sloper 

I will have another bash at the weekend and nail it

[deacon]

Hi mate, I kept the heel in and got the left toe on a small undercut hold. Then a dynamic slap for the top. You'll get it easily. I think Slap Happy comes in from the right, left hand using the mono then slap up for the same finishing hold with the right hand.
Looks like they're going to start doing the monthly fees soon,        don't know how much yet though.
Sorry I couldn't get out this week I'll get in touch when I'm back from Font.
Deacon

[Jameshs]

Hopefully it will go when i am next down there. Starting to find the childish low lifes a bit of a problem though. They seem to be trashing the place 

What grade does slap happy come out at?

Have fun in font mate 

[deacon]

Slap Happy goea at the same grade font 7a+.  Seems to be loads of pricks hanging around there lately, caught a bunch of hippies building a bonfire under stinging but I got them to clear it up and fuck off. If your looking for a change theres Stone Farm east and Standen which are both just down the lane where you park the car. Could be some FA's to be done. The rock hasn't been trashed yet and it's all low enough to boulder out. Definitely worth a look.

[Jameshs]

Sounds like a plan, i had no idea there way some down there. I saw the tick marks and that route round the side of Stinging nettle, not impressed really