Spirit or Blade (Read 9070 times)

Martin JWS · May 18, 2009, 08:26:48 pm

OK then, I am new to the whole climbing scene, get hooked about 6 weeks ago, so now I am taking the plunge and getting my own gear.
So far I have narrowed down the choices of shoe to either the Red Chili Spirit VCR or the Boreal Blade.
I have only been indoor and mainly bouldering with a bit of top rope-ing.

Could anyone offer any advice regarding either pair of shoes, I know it is all down to personal preference and all that, but some other opinions are always welcome

nodder · May 18, 2009, 08:58:28 pm

Defiantly the Blade it will stretch out a bit and then be awesome.

tobym · May 18, 2009, 09:30:56 pm

Quote from: nodder on May 18, 2009, 08:58:28 pm

Defiantly the Blade it will stretch out a bit and then be awesome.

Nodder, aren't they canvas-lined? have yours stretched much?
would you buy them if you weren't sponsored by Boreal?

slackline · May 18, 2009, 11:20:16 pm

Quote from: tobym on May 18, 2009, 09:30:56 pm

would you buy them if you weren't sponsored by Boreal?

milksnake · May 19, 2009, 03:16:31 am

well, i've had a pair of boreal falcons for a little while now, which are basically a more flexible version of the blade. They are an awesome pair of shoes so I would recomend the blades over the spirits any day. a friend of mine has a pair of spirits and has no end of trouble standing on small edges in them, though this probally has more to do with the shape of his foot than the shoe itself. go for the one thats fits best or if you cant tell the difference, go for the blades.

lagerstarfish · May 19, 2009, 08:28:18 am

I've had a pair of Spirits for a couple of years.
I got them as a comfortable pair that I could wear when my gout/arthritis makes it too painful to get my feet into anything else - the shape of the toe section means that they can be worn tight enough to give reasonable performance whilst still staying wearable for a couple of hours at a time.
I think they'd be great as a beginner's shoe - in fact, I lent mine to Dancing John for his first go at climbing (a week in Font) and he got on fine - they are sensitive enough to give a beginner enough confidence to know whether or not their feet are sticking to holds.
Thinking about it, they might be too soft for a beginner to be able to use little edges? Great for smearing though.

Not worn the Boreals

tomtom · May 19, 2009, 08:32:14 am

Spirits are great - They were the first pair of boots I bought after c.8 yrs out... comfy - fairly good performance. Not tried blades, but did have a pair of Boreal Jokers after that - they were better than the spirits - but not hugely. Both are probably fine for you - I'd keep em both in mind and wait for the best deal. I never seemed to be able to find any real discounts on the red chilli boots but sometimes there is on Boreals. I have wideish feet and boreals seem to fit me well - maybe not so good for you with narrow feet.
BTW I now use Anazasi Velcro's... painful at first, more expensive, but

SA Chris · May 19, 2009, 08:37:51 am

Quote from: lagerstarfish on May 19, 2009, 08:28:18 am

in fact, I lent mine to Dancing John for his first go at climbing (a week in Font) and he got on fine

Didn't he spend most of the time using any body part apart from his feet though?

Martin JWS · May 19, 2009, 08:42:48 am

Thank you all for the advice, I am leaning towards the Blades, but I will try both before I buy

Nike Air · May 19, 2009, 08:48:05 am

Quote from: slack---line on May 18, 2009, 11:20:16 pm

would you buy them if you weren't sponsored by Boreal?
Quote from: tobym on May 18, 2009, 09:30:56 pm

cause he would..............

Andy F · May 19, 2009, 08:58:50 am

Boreals - the best shoe's in the world

... for campusing and footless work

Nike Air · May 19, 2009, 09:05:36 am

Quote from: Andy F on May 19, 2009, 08:58:50 am

Boreals - the best shoe's in the world

... for campusing and footless work

Jaspersharpe · May 19, 2009, 01:56:25 pm

Quote from: Cocktalk news item

Dave Noden is supported by Boreal

Quote from: Cocktalk news item

Jordan Buys is supported by Boreal and BoulderUK

I see a pattern here!

In all fairness I haven't tried any of these new (to me) Boreals so can't express an opinion.

slackline · May 19, 2009, 02:12:15 pm

I have quite wide feet and have found that Boreals are very accommodating (even though I still climb with my toes all scrunched up still). Currently on my fourth pair of Crux' and have no complaints about the Quattro rubber on 'em.

tomtom · May 19, 2009, 07:24:10 pm

Quote from: slack---line on May 19, 2009, 02:12:15 pm

I have quite wide feet and have found that Boreals are very accommodating (even though I still climb with my toes all scrunched up still). Currently on my fourth pair of Crux' and have no complaints about the Quattro rubber on 'em.

I like boreals - but find the 5:10 rubber works slightly better (but not a huge amount..)
T

tobym · May 19, 2009, 10:08:12 pm

Quote from: slack---line on May 19, 2009, 02:12:15 pm

I have quite wide feet and have found that Boreals are very accommodating (even though I still climb with my toes all scrunched up still). Currently on my fourth pair of Crux' and have no complaints about the Quattro rubber on 'em.

Me too, and my old Pyros, at street shoe size were perfect, my cruxes, however are not wide enough at the toe to let my big toe to squash into the end of the shoe, even at street shoe size, the Blades look a better shape, for me, but unfortunately are s'posed to be canvas-lined.

rashumon · May 22, 2009, 01:14:14 pm

Tried the Spirits for a bit about a year ago and was appalled! they suck donkey's wot's-it's! saggy stiff and totally not sensitive at all. I often see new starters at the indoor walls kicking away hopelessly on holds with them as they are not even sure they got the hold.... + they make your foot go RED!

If I were you, looking for a nice beginner's clog i'd get the 5.10 Anasazi VCS or the Evolv Defy.

Dunno about the Boreals...

milatchi · May 24, 2009, 03:16:21 am

So far I'm very happy with my Blades.

tobym · June 19, 2009, 08:09:23 am

Quote from: nodder on May 18, 2009, 08:58:28 pm

Defiantly the Blade it will stretch out a bit and then be awesome.

Dave, how similar is the fit, to the Crux's? are they as wide/any wider at the toe?

Drew · June 19, 2009, 04:50:13 pm

Quote from: Martin JWS on May 18, 2009, 08:26:48 pm

OK then, I am new to the whole climbing scene, get hooked about 6 weeks ago...

Everyone seems to be ignoring this! This is going to to be the guy's first pair! Why the hell would anyone buy a downturned (if only slightly) shoe as their first? Get the Spirits or something like it (Sausalito, Gambit, Joker), which is flat, firm, and comfy. If you get the Blades, they will wear out in about 3 months. Get Spirits, and you'll prefer the comfy fit, and they'll last you much longer (while your footwork improves).

erm, sam · June 20, 2009, 12:31:09 pm

I have to agree. They are very different shoes.
Untill you have tried lots of shoes in lots of different sizes on your actual foot, it is totally pointless to discuss which you might prefer.
Go to a good climbing shop when it is not very busy and spend 40 minutes trying a load of boots on. Try sizes that are almost certainly too big should be ok and too probablyl too small in lots of different boots. Go home. Go back to the shop later and repeat the procedure with the top 2 or 3 pairs and then you have good chance of getting a pair which will provide the best balance of comfort and performance.
If the shop assistant doesn't point out to you that Blades and Spirits are very different boots then go home immediatly.
Bear in mind that the shoes that fit the best might not be the pair that you want to fit the best.
By the way I have a pair of spirits that I wear for all day circuits in Font and I think they are great. I have other shoes I wear for other purposes, but for a mid level boot they fit me perfectly.

nodder · June 25, 2009, 06:29:01 pm

I would say the blade was similar in the toe box to a crux less down turned i think, its been a while since i wore cruxes. Cant make the quote thing work so this is in reply to a few posts ago. Yes i did buy boreal before i was given them, if i thought for a second i would climb harder in something else i would buy them. That's in reply to the one ages ago.

tobym · June 26, 2009, 10:35:50 pm

Quote from: nodder on June 25, 2009, 06:29:01 pm

I would say the blade was similar in the toe box to a crux less down turned i think, its been a while since i wore cruxes. Cant make the quote thing work so this is in reply to a few posts ago. Yes i did buy boreal before i was given them, if i thought for a second i would climb harder in something else i would buy them. That's in reply to the one ages ago.

Cheers, Dave, and get wadded for being so inept at posting on fora