[99a3136]

Hi,

Does anyone on here know where I could possibly find some topos for bouldering in the south east>


Cheers

[St Hubbins]

There may be a few problems listed on this: http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/downloads/sandstone.pdf

Other than this i'm not sure of much thats available online. That sample is from the best of the SS guidebooks.

Try the search function as it may bring up some links or older posts on this.

[chriss]

There is also the Jingo guide book that is generally wank, but is fairly useful if you climb the lines rather than do the daft eliminate versions like on the Fandango wall at Bowles or Matterhorn boulder at High Rocks.
The new Climbers Club guide is ok, but grade wise a bit up & down in places. Other than that lot you could always pester a local when you get down there. Sandstone bouldering has always been a bit word of mouth kinda' style anyway.
 Good luck.......

[St Hubbins]

There is also the Jingo guide book that is generally wank

Its a flacid wank at that!

[Averageman]

There is also the Jingo guide book that is generally wank,

Tis the book of LIES.
I Agree with Chriss, the best way i think is to ask a local, like me for instance, or another good option is just turn up and just try stuff you like the look of, southern sandstone does have bouldering, and some of it is ok, but it is primarily a top roping venue with some damn fine routes i might like to add.

[i.munro]

Ran into the author down there at the weekend, taking pictures, perhaps for his next opus?

[Averageman]

Ran into the author down there at the weekend, taking pictures, perhaps for his next opus?

Thats right he was, who are you then, i was not climbing that day but i was there, are you a local?.

[Jaspersharpe]

Have you got to have a bash on SG yet Average or is it still wet?

[i.munro]

Thats right he was, who are you then, i was not climbing that day but i was there, are you a local?.

I knew I shouldn't have chosen such a cryptic username

[Averageman]

Have you got to have a bash on SG yet Average or is it still wet?

Yeh things are still a little damp up that end Jasper but, if this weather continues, should be ready by June.

I knew I shouldn't have chosen such a cryptic username

Don't play games, your dealing with a thick person here, just come clean.

[St Hubbins]

Yeh things are still a little damp up that end Jasper but, if this weather continues, should be ready by June.
[/quote]

You're forgetting about next weeks 'torrential rain' thats allegedly coming our way? Still weather is always wrong, was meant to be heavy rain today, cancelled a morning at eridge but there hasn't been a cloud in the sky!

[i.munro]

Quite  but would anyone care to venture a grade for the direct start to Z'mutt (the shallow groove) from a sitter?

[Averageman]

Z'mutt as a climb/boulder problem only gets 5b but as a sitter depends what you use, but normally the low diagonal edge, 6a max.

[i.munro]

Thanks but I meant the shallow groove to the right that goes straight up to where Z'mutt finishes.
Uk 6b in my guide (what a surprise!) but I was after a grade including the sit.

[Averageman]

Your right it is UK6b, i just don't agree with the grade, as for the shallow groove from a sitter, it is such a micro eliminate could be quite hard, the crimps to the right of that groove up the iron stone wall is font 7b, as for the groove proper, no more than font 6b IMO. But hey give it a go, and if chez is in the area ask him he knows that boulder like the back of his hand.

[route149]

But hey give it a go, and if chez is in the area ask him he knows that boulder like the back of his hand.

Yes, he does!

[i.munro]

Ta. I thought about Fb  6B as well. The moves from the SS aren't the crux after all.
It's just that a French guy on Sun was suggesting it was much harder(& he'd just done  Honeycomb with one small pad, so no punter) I was also aware that it would be much harder if you lacked even a little bit of my reach.

[Tom de Gay]

the crimps to the right of that groove up the iron stone wall is font 7b

Do you mean off the two sharp crimps in the centre of this pic, right foot high on the right and rocking through to the top?



I thought this was pretty much the living end of crimpy sharpness and probably warranted a mighty 7c grade

Has the sit start been done?

[Monolith]

the crimps to the right of that groove up the iron stone wall is font 7b

Do you mean off the two sharp crimps in the centre of this pic, right foot high on the right and rocking through to the top?



I thought this was pretty much the living end of crimpy sharpness and probably warranted a mighty 7c grade

Has the sit start been done?

That looks decent.

[neil h]

the crimps to the right of that groove up the iron stone wall is font 7b

Do you mean off the two sharp crimps in the centre of this pic, right foot high on the right and rocking through to the top?


I thought this was pretty much the living end of crimpy sharpness and probably warranted a mighty 7c grade

Has the sit start been done?

I agree there, when we were trying it years ago we heard rummers of it being an 8a project, pull on the 2 sharp crimps, right foot on and jump for the top, 7c def, I think the sitter is a bit crap, big jugs and big feet, wont add much to the grade, and its eliminate too

[i.munro]

I agree there, when we were trying it years ago we heard rummers of it being an 8a project, pull on the 2 sharp crimps, right foot on and jump for the top, 7c def, I think the sitter is a bit crap, big jugs and big feet, wont add much to the grade, and its eliminate too

Not sure this bloke would agree about it not adding much to the grade.

[Averageman]

the crimps to the right of that groove up the iron stone wall is font 7b

Do you mean off the two sharp crimps in the centre of this pic, right foot high on the right and rocking through to the top?



I thought this was pretty much the living end of crimpy sharpness and probably warranted a mighty 7c grade

Has the sit start been done?

I can see i have not been very clear, and i didn't anticipate such interest. Yes without a doubt that problem is 7c, or at least that is the general consensus, the 7b i revered to only uses the left crimp of the two close together, the start is the same but then you take that crimp with the right hand, and then use a few nothings in the back of that groove, moving left to gain the top of the rising flake. Both, i hate to add, are harder for the short. And just for the record, i aint dunem (yet).

[route149]

Sheesh.  Who is that in the vid please? 

[Dr T]

Sheesh.  Who is that in the vid please?  

Peter Wycislik - the worlds stongest Polish Postie - beast, and all round nice guy...

[route149]

He has got to be one strong beast to get up the 7C+ and nearly nail the SD.  Some way mutant contenders have had a go over the years.

Respect to the man.

Oh, he's the same guy that did the first Polish ascent of Masters Edge a couple of years ago.  Du-oh!

[Tom de Gay]

A fine display of beastliness. So did it get done? Hardest problem in the SE? 

[Jaspersharpe]

That looks decent.

Shhh Mono. Don't you know everything on SS is crap, there's no decent rock and no decent routes or problems. Shame on you! 

[Averageman]

Shhh Mono. Don't you know everything on SS is crap, there's no decent rock and no decent routes or problems. Shame on you! 

Don't give the game away Mr Sharpe, i was planing on selling hot dogs outside High rocks.

[Jaspersharpe]

 

In all seriousness, that problem looks top quality.

[i_a_coops]

So does The Slow Pull use those crimps as well? Or does it go left lower down than that?

[ian h]

It goes lower

[clgladiator]

not really a topo thing but wondered if anyone had any beta on either Salad Days or Magnetic? Thanks

[ian h]

What bits you stuck on ?

[Dr T]

for those of you in the facebook way there's quite a but of info here
the link may well have been posted before but I couldn't find it on the brief search I just did

[milksnake]

just got back from my first trip to harrisons rocks, loved it, not quite font but a good subsitute

[clgladiator]

What bits you stuck on ?

On Salad days im getting the undercut with my right hand, but then cranking through to the break seems like a long way and quite desperate?

On Magnetic ive got both my hands in the two pockets, is it then just a slap to the break below the flake? I've been trying a way of doing it using a crimpy side pull out left as well.

[richie0210]

If I knew how to insert pics I'm sure i could find pics of these problems?? any clues welcome please 

[i.munro]

Can't help with the posting but here's a good shot of magnetic

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10057.msg166269.html#msg166269

[clgladiator]

Can't help with the posting but here's a good shot of magnetic

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10057.msg166269.html#msg166269

Thats awesome thanks, clarifies that the way ive been trying is correct, ill obviously just have to work it, needs to be sent before i go to Sheffield. Shame about the shit weather  .  (Ps. Sorry for not searching  )

[chriss]

On Salad days look round the left side, there is a cheeky pocket. Feet up then left again to the break.
As for the direct version pull/push harder.........

[the_loz]

Try this

http://www.mountain-trips.co.uk/boulder_menu.html

Its a work in progress!