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New Brimham Additions (Read 3707 times)

TomP

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New Brimham Additions
April 06, 2009, 12:02:52 pm
In comparison to some of the new lines being dispatched recently (well done Dan, Mark and Jordan!) this is probably tame news but went to Brimham yesterday and several new problems were climbed unexpectedly. I initially went for a day of bumbling highballs but I'm always overwhelmed by the amount of rock there and especially the amount of unclimbed lines.

First off is at the Cleft buttress (see http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/brimham.html)

In the alley there are some blank walls and aesthetic features:

Probably the pick of the bunch is Tin Can Alley (7b+ ish, possibly harder?), which climbs the obvious bulge. From the pocket, gain a row of pebbles and get a high foot to do a massive move to the break below the top (about another half foot out of frame in third pic):

     

Directly right of this is another nice problem tackling the wall, again starting from a big pocket. Quite a big move to a flat ledge and crimps to finish. Pressure Drop - 7a ish:


Matt Waring made a cool addition with a hard mantle (as yet un-named 7a+ish), on the other side of the corridor:


The last addition is over at Dave Cowl's Old Pete problem. Old Greg climbes the arete on the left hand side (7b/+). The rock here is abit scrittly but should clean up with some traffic:



There's a shit load more to do at Brimahm too  :)

SA Chris

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#1 Re: New Brimham Additions
April 06, 2009, 12:19:46 pm
I can remember farting atound on that bit of cleft bittress once when it was wondy and wet. Tried to do a traverse, but never got anywhere. Nice to see some up probs done in it.

El Mocho

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#2 Re: New Brimham Additions
April 06, 2009, 12:21:44 pm
Nice Tom, Tin Can Alley looks good. Need to spend some more time up there.

Pressure Drop - think this is the 3rd route/problem with this name! name alone makes me want to come and climb it...

TomP

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#3 Re: New Brimham Additions
April 06, 2009, 12:28:00 pm
Cheers. It was one of those accidental day where you don't expect anything and walk away at the end having a grin on your face.

Pressure Drop - think this is the 3rd route/problem with this name! name alone makes me want to come and climb it...

I thought it might be. I love the toots tune though, very summery!

andy_e

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#4 Re: New Brimham Additions
April 06, 2009, 01:39:30 pm
Looks good! you at work today tom?

TomP

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#5 Re: New Brimham Additions
April 06, 2009, 01:42:02 pm
Looks good! you at work today tom?

Apparently  ;) I'm sat at a desk and computer but not doing anything. Not sure if that classes as work

andy_e

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#6 Re: New Brimham Additions
April 06, 2009, 01:51:16 pm
Well I popped in but the shutters were down, what do you actually do when there's no children to take work off?

webbo

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#7 Re: New Brimham Additions
April 06, 2009, 01:53:40 pm
i think jim purchon has climbed the other side of the arete to old pete.i'm sure dave cowl told me this but as i've been to bed several times since then i may be making this up.in regard to the others on cleft buttress you might want to try and probe swannys memory,both he and mike grey have done loads of stuff at brimham thats not written up.
for instance they both did a sit start over the roof in to the traverse,just round the arete to your left in the pictures(cleft buttress arete?)then finish along the traverse.
« Last Edit: April 06, 2009, 02:03:37 pm by webbo, Reason: just remembered something »

webbo

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#8 Re: New Brimham Additions
April 06, 2009, 02:14:11 pm
murky rib i mean not cleft buttress arete.

TomP

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#9 Re: New Brimham Additions
April 06, 2009, 02:19:13 pm
Hi Webbo

I very much doubt the arete to left of old pete has been done before. It was filthy. Some holds were brushed on it but not the ones that are any use. I had to excavate a few inches of soil from the top. It certainly had brushed holds at the start but no evidence of an ascent and I heard it was unclimbed.

The others in Cleft Butress/Murky Rib may have been done before but I very much doubt that Tin Can Alley has been (not that Andy or Mike are incapable mind!!!!). The mantle and Pressure Drop maybe. There was no evidence of TCA being cleaned, the holds are very hard to see and an ascent looks unlieky. Jon P also seemed to think they are neglected unclimbed lines. I'd be very surprised if it had been done and not reported as it's a very nice line/problem. I'd heard about SDS into trav and other unreported things there but I'm sure I would have heard about a quality, reachy and crimpy problem before.
I'll ask him though as he is a Brimham encyclopedia!

 

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