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Monad - Stanage
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r-man
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Monad - Stanage
April 05, 2009, 12:38:32 pm
What's the deal with this? Did it yesterday, without a French start, but using the arete, which felt like 7a or something. A nice move, followed by a fun top section. Someone said it was E2 6a - is this with a cheat start? I also read somewhere that with a French start it gets V7 in the BMC guide. Is this without arete?
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grimer
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#1 Re: Monad - Stanage
April 05, 2009, 12:44:20 pm
Depends what you call cheating. Traditionally it bridges the chimley then swings in to the hold. I think the hop method just pops for the hold with a foot on. You've done a static method? E2 6a is probably a bit generous as the top is very easy.
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r-man
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#2 Re: Monad - Stanage
April 05, 2009, 01:01:01 pm
Not static, no, but not a French start either. Pulled on left hand undercut/sidepull, right hand arete, slapped for hold. The arete pulls you the other way, so it's a timing thing. Classy move, I thought.
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dave
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#3 Re: Monad - Stanage
April 05, 2009, 01:14:48 pm
with a french/jumpstart its a good problem, not 7a+ by a mile though for anyone of averageish height, probably in the 6c+ area.
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