[Steve R]

What does general wisdom say is the best angle for training power endurance upon?  That board immediately on the right as you walk in to the works seems about right? what angle is that? 20degrees or so? How long is it as well?  I've managed to make every sentence a question havn't I?
cheers

[abarro81]

Thoughts:
Surely it depends on how strong you are and what you're training for. 9a beasts wanting PE for their latest 70degree project would be able to (and want to) train on something much steeper than someone looking to train for the catwalk and who's aiming for their first 7b and thus could only probably use full on jugs on a 60 board which would - anyway - be totally unrealistic for their project...
The angle at the works seems good to me, though as a circuit fan I'd go for 2 boards and 2 angles if I had the choice.
I like circuits that go up and down not just sideways, the way the bristol walls do it is nice - circuits are marked by numbered tape/tags and you follow with the appropriate hand - 1=L, 2=R, 3=L etc. Allows much more vertical motion on less area, and holds can be reused on the same circuit.

[Steve R]

Yeah, I suppose I was really wondering if it was as simple as matching the angle and type of climbing to your project or if there's some optimum angle where training for PE is most effective.  (In a similar to way to the time-honoured 45/50 degree board as best for developing power.)

So, your 2 board ideal.....  I assume you'd have them adjacent to allow circuits to travel over both?  What would your angles be?

[richdraws]

Vince the aussie who was over for awhile trained on a 50 degree board at home and did 8c in Spain I think. He had lots of finger strength and was good at slapping and holding on.

[route149]

Yeah, I suppose I was really wondering if it was as simple as matching the angle and type of climbing to your project or if there's some optimum angle where training for PE is most effective. 

Chris Cubitt (remember him?) used to do 45 moves on the 45 degree board in the board room at Mile End.  He used to throw in quite a few awkward shapes and you were looking at a lot of solid English 6b moves.

Neil Gresham wrote about this a while back and what Abarro says echoes his view that you train at an angle to ensure that you're training power endurance.  So if you're a beast, that's going to be steep.  If you're a wildebeest, something a bit flatter will still train power endurance.  Go by feel.

[abarro81]

So, your 2 board ideal.....  I assume you'd have them adjacent to allow circuits to travel over both?  What would your angles be?

I'd probably separate them so you can always have 2 people circuiting if required. Maybe one at 15-20, the other in the 30-40 region? 30 with lots of features like on the foundry board for feet sounds good in my head - features for feet would make me climb a bit slower and hold each hold for a bit longer (which me and reeve were discussing recently) without having to force myself to.