[Paul B]

Tonight at the tor something very strange happened. I warmed up thoroughly then went on powerhumps, matched the crimps (open), threw my foot out left and carried on up and beyond to the jug.

On return to the floor I got a sharp 'release' pain in my left palm and I was pretty aware that my ring finger couldn't resist any pressure at all in the open position. There was no sound or sudden pain when climbing that I ignored and I was completely warmed up. No other fingers cause the pain and there is no pain in half or full crimped.

I stopped climbing as soon as it happened. Now, back at home (with an ice pack in hand) the pain is still there but not quite as bad. If I probe with my finger into my palm I can't find anything that seems sore.

I know the treatment is still the same regardless but can anyone give me a clue what this might be?

    

[dobbin]

yes I know precisely what your problem is - YOU SOLD YOUR SOUL TO THE DEVIL TO CLIMB 8B! Although, the price you've paid does seem high, I would want to have at least done 8b+ for the amount of pain you've suffered.

Its in the palm is it? hmm. Well, theres a fascia of slippy stuff which sits between the palm and where the tendon runs which I have ruptured before. Hurty palm, specific to some fingers. Ice morning and night, Ibruprofen throughout, leave off everything until midweek next week, and then gently does it.

(all above advice should be prefaced by the fact that I have no medical training whatsoever. Injuries can get worse as well as better)

[Kingy]

Bad luck Paul, I have lost count of the number of people who have injured themselves on this problem. At least it is in the palm, the pain that you are describing and does not seem to be a dreaded A2 pulley tear. I would agree, ice and ibuprofen and at least 7 days rest, just to be sure it does not recurr. I have not had the injury you describe but had an A2 last year which needed 3 weeks off and then rehab on juggy routes, however your's sounds not as bad as this but obviously do what feels best. Take it easy!

[Jaspersharpe]

Perhaps your luck will change if you remove the two factual inaccuracies from your signature?  

Bad luck Paul. I'm starting to think that Dense is right, whenever you feel like you're getting strong and climbing well, stop for a couple of weeks or you're going to get injured. It's what seems to be happening to me at the moment anyway.

[Paul B]

I'm all too familiar with the dreaded A2's as well, I used to be absolutely plagued by them, maybe I'm still in a pessimistic mood but this feels a tonne worse than any A2 I've ever done.
Its very annoying usually when I injure myself (in the fingers) I really should have seen it coming, i.e I was over doing it or doing something stupid but this I just can't see what I did wrong (apart from shying away from my beloved full crimp).

I'll carry on with the usual treatment... I'm still intrigued to know what it is that I've hurt.

[Doylo]

I`m sure Malc did Magnetic before Hubble. I was openhanding a two finger pocket yesterday when i felt something go in my forearm. Its not fucked but its not good either. I know i love Jerry but going from one injury to the next is a bit much. Bad luck paul

[Paul B]

Ta Shag!
Its clinic night at the works tonight, I'll be there... after driving Nat to the tor and back 

[Jaspersharpe]

I`m sure Malc did Magnetic before Hubble.

Yes he fucking did which is what I've been banging on about! About a bloody year beforehand. JERRY WAS WRONG. 

Good luck with the diagnosis Paul.

[Paul B]

SHARPE just admit defeat...

[Jaspersharpe]

I've just started reading the book so if I find any more errors I'll be sure to point them out for you.

[SA Chris]

See if you spot the sentence that goes nowhere in the middle of a line.

[Kingy]

I`m sure Malc did Magnetic before Hubble.

Malc did Magnetic in 91 aged 17 and Hubble in 92. I have an old High article with an interview by Gavin Ellis from 1995 somewhere at home. I will dig it out and post it up. It was just after he had done Evolution and Progress and is a mini-synopsis of his career to date at that time. It recalls talk of a 'hideously strong bairn from north of the border' in the early 90's 

[Paul B]

so does that mean i now need to adjust my signature to include, "even if that Jasper bloke and indisputable evidence disagrees" sad times. 

back to the injury:
The clinic guys reckon that I've torn the cross fibers in the tendon that keeps the end of the finger flexed when open handing. As I can't find any real point of pain when prodding in my palm and I was told I still have good strength, it might not be the end of the world. I've been told to ice and perhaps deep friction if I can find the right spot with a week off doing anything (inc pullups as to not aggravate the palm) and then start taking it easy. Standard really.

[Kingy]

That's good news Paul, sounds like it not as bad as you first thought. Keep icing man and the rest will do its work. I will nip down to Staples tomorrow morning to get this article scanned in, one of the all time classics!

[Kingy]

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,11074.msg193994.html#msg193994

Here is that Malcolm Smith article which I've posted on the Favourite Old School magazine articles thread. Enjoy!