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New Shoe beta please.... (Read 9713 times)

chriss

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New Shoe beta please....
March 27, 2009, 04:08:51 pm
Need some new shoes. I currently wear Boreal as I like the fit, but hate the rubber. I also have Scarpa Stix which are ok, but I wana try some 5.10's as I'm a dirty little vegan. The Evolve shoes don't really float my boat, but I'm open to suggestions. 
I like softer shoes so was thinking Jet 7's, what's the fit like compared to the others I currently have also are the Dragons worth a go or the tried & trusted classic Velcros the way forward...
Cheers for the advice or abuse in advance.

benpritch

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#1 Re: New Shoe beta please....
March 27, 2009, 05:16:15 pm
depends what you are going to use them for

steep stuff inc font steepness id go for dragons

footy stuff i like green anaztazis

just my opinion


chriss

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#2 Re: New Shoe beta please....
March 29, 2009, 10:17:48 pm
Cheers Ben. I'm a Sourthern Sandstone person so think the greens may be a bit stiff. I'm off to the Swiss for a bit, so may try the Dragons..

Richie Crouch

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#3 Re: New Shoe beta please....
March 30, 2009, 12:27:15 pm
I am massively impressed/happy with the 5.10 5X's I bought online from bananafingers. Definitely worth a look as they are comfortable, soft and with a great heel suited to the steep stuff as well as the all day circuiting comfort/routes. (I take them off for my solutions occasionaly if I need something a bit more toe down in the cave..etc)

Check them out as an option, far better than the old 5.10 velcros I had.

meatball

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#4 Re: New Shoe beta please....
April 01, 2009, 08:46:29 am
I am massively impressed/happy with the 5.10 5X's I bought online from bananafingers. Definitely worth a look as they are comfortable, soft and with a great heel suited to the steep stuff as well as the all day circuiting comfort/routes. (I take them off for my solutions occasionaly if I need something a bit more toe down in the cave..etc)

Check them out as an option, far better than the old 5.10 velcros I had.

Did they sort your contact out? how many shoes have the offered you lad?

Richie Crouch

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#5 Re: New Shoe beta please....
April 01, 2009, 08:52:12 am
I am completely confused by what you mean Dave  ???

chriss

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#6 Re: New Shoe beta please....
April 02, 2009, 09:47:46 am
I checked out the 5x, sadly they are leather...I tried a mates pair of Anasazi Greens the other day, the heal was shit is it better on any of the new models like the Dragons, jet 7 etc as my Scarpas & Boreals fit real well.
Ps I live in the non climbing area called London so shops stocking a decent range of shoes is a fat zero hence why I haven't just gone & tried some on.

robertostallioni

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#7 Re: New Shoe beta please....
April 02, 2009, 01:28:37 pm
I'm a dirty little vegan.

I checked out the 5x, sadly they are leather

You don't have to eat the fuckers.





« Last Edit: April 02, 2009, 01:48:25 pm by robertostallioni »

dave

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#8 Re: New Shoe beta please....
April 02, 2009, 01:38:43 pm
isn't leather these days just a byproduct of the meat industry? in which case you may as well buy the leather shoes then the poor animal will have served a useful life and not died in vain.

Stubbs

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#9 New shoes
April 02, 2009, 03:32:00 pm
Amazing Dave, i never thought of it like that before, would you also say that pork pies and scratchings are biproducts of the chop industry?! This opens up whole new product areas to vegans...

meatball

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#10 Re: New Shoe beta please....
April 02, 2009, 03:40:19 pm
I am completely confused by what you mean Dave  ???

Was a poor attempt at heckling you after your amazing sales pitch for 5.10

dave

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#11 Re: New Shoe beta please....
April 02, 2009, 04:11:53 pm
Amazing Dave, i never thought of it like that before, would you also say that pork pies and scratchings are biproducts of the chop industry?! This opens up whole new product areas to vegans...

exactly. similarly veggies should eat veal, as its a byproduct of the milk industry.

chriss

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#12 Re: New Shoe beta please....
April 02, 2009, 05:19:54 pm
I fucking love UKB you ask a normal question & it turns into a slag fest or a comedy marathon.
I'll just buy some & see how it go's....If they are shit I'll feed 'em to the dog haha........

Monolith

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#13 Re: New Shoe beta please....
April 02, 2009, 07:55:21 pm
Seems an appropriate thread to ask for a headsup. If anyone knows of any stores that have any remaining pairs of 10.5 V10's, I'd be grateful to hear. Found one place locally but will buy all the pairs I can find. Can't envisage a climbing career without them!

benpritch

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#14 Re: New Shoe beta please....
April 03, 2009, 09:02:19 am
Seems an appropriate thread to ask for a headsup. If anyone knows of any stores that have any remaining pairs of 10.5 V10's, I'd be grateful to hear. Found one place locally but will buy all the pairs I can find. Can't envisage a climbing career without them!

likewise if there are any size uk 9s I've just fallen in love with mine.

Monolith

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#15 Re: New Shoe beta please....
April 03, 2009, 05:47:47 pm
It's a bit scary ben how you won't be able to imagine a climbing world without them once they wear into that magic state.

Oli

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#16 Re: New Shoe beta please....
April 03, 2009, 10:11:17 pm
Seems an appropriate thread to ask for a headsup. If anyone knows of any stores that have any remaining pairs of 10.5 V10's, I'd be grateful to hear. Found one place locally but will buy all the pairs I can find. Can't envisage a climbing career without them!

I've recently acquired, on a bit of a whim, a pair of the old style V10's in a 10.5... I've done about 3 problems in them so far, so are pretty much brand new. They might, unfortunately, be slightly too big which'd be a real shitter. If they are I'll let you know if you want first dibs on them? And if so, anyone got a size of 10's? ;)

Monolith

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#17 Re: New Shoe beta please....
April 05, 2009, 07:09:56 pm
Ace Oli. If you decide against them, forge contact and we'll see what's what eh. Cheers man.

rashumon

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#18 Re: New Shoe beta please....
April 27, 2009, 01:24:48 am
Dragons! best shoes I ever used (so far...) awesome heel, point and rubber. had VCSs, Solutions and lots of others before and Dragons are the best so far... 5.10 gonna launch a new V10 (blue with a single velcro) soon so that would be amazing too I'm sure...
Reason I love 5.10s (apart from the veggie thing which is also important to me) is that cos they are synthetic you can chuck them in the washing machine once they get too smelly and rank and get a new pair of shoes the next day. It really does work! you can't do that with any leather shoe... :bow: 


tomtom

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#19 Re: New Shoe beta please....
April 27, 2009, 09:41:42 am

Reason I love 5.10s (apart from the veggie thing which is also important to me) is that cos they are synthetic you can chuck them in the washing machine once they get too smelly and rank and get a new pair of shoes the next day. It really does work! you can't do that with any leather shoe... :bow: 


Does that really work? I'd hate to see 70 sheets worth of boots to get f*cked up so never dared try...

Whilst they may be vegan friendly, the 5.10 non leather does get ultra wiffy quicker than leather..

rashumon

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#20 Re: New Shoe beta please....
April 27, 2009, 03:04:47 pm

Reason I love 5.10s (apart from the veggie thing which is also important to me) is that cos they are synthetic you can chuck them in the washing machine once they get too smelly and rank and get a new pair of shoes the next day. It really does work! you can't do that with any leather shoe... :bow: 


Does that really work? I'd hate to see 70 sheets worth of boots to get f*cked up so never dared try...

Whilst they may be vegan friendly, the 5.10 non leather does get ultra wiffy quicker than leather..

Yup, did it twice with my VCSs and once with my Dragons, 30 degrees gentle wash with Persil bio and they come out as clean as spring, it also removes all that oxidised rubber off the soles... only draw back is that the upper might get slightly stretched out... by, say, a quarter size up... but i'm not sure. and anyway if you size your clogs down enough, the upper stretching doesn't really matter as its the rand and the heel rubber which really keep it tensed around your foot, not the upper soft stuff.
To illustrate, I can still use my Dragons as slippers with the laces undone, they climb just as well like that (even after washing) as they do laced up - as long as no serious hooking is involved...  in fact i prefer climbing with them unlaced for crimpy tensiony steep problems...

Besides they got so rank and nasty that it was a choice of either getting a new pair or trying to save things by washing, I hate to think the kind of skin disorders I may end up with wearing 6 months worth of foot rot every other day on my already Dragon abused poor toes  :-\ ... washing worked and saved me having to get a new pair...

Moo

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#21 Re: New Shoe beta please....
May 06, 2009, 08:36:12 pm
i've never washed a pair of shoes ever usually i like to throw them away as soon as they get any chalk - dirt on them loosing that new shoe look. i'm also a millionare

 

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