[marty]

Here's one for the collective knowledge of UKB. Looking to make some decent gains in 2009, and I am up'ing the frequency of my training. The issue is that it is taking me two days to recover between sessions.

I have always worked on the quality principle, and would not train if I have not fully recovered.

Previous:
Climb / Train Wed; Sore Thurs / Fri; Climb / Train Sat; Recover Sun / Mon;   - two sessions a week.

Planned / now;
Climb Wed; Weights & finger board Thurs; Fri Rest; Climb Sat; Sun Rest; Weights/ Finger board Mon; Tues Rest - 4 sessions a week
(Going back a few years, I was on this sort of frequency, before age / life caught up with me - I have been farting around for the last 3-4 years)

Will the recovery between sessions start to shorten as the body adapts?

Any top tips for shortening recovery between sessions? I eat pretty healthily, and will take the odd protein shake post session for recovery.

[abarro81]

My recovery seems to be better recently which I'm currently putting down to 3 things (with no science whatsoever to back up my assertions):
- Body adapting to the fact I've increased the load recently
- Running 3 x 20 min each week
- ARCing at the end of every session as a warm down

I feel like I can definitely do a good power-endurance/stamina session if arms feel ok but not totally fresh.

[clgladiator]

personally, (im not saying that this is the best method of doing things) I try to train/climb every day during the week and chuck back loads of protein and carbs for recovery, i get this through my diet i.e. lots of meat, eggs and pasta. Then take the weekend off, ive recovered over the weekend for the next week. I find the two consecutive days very conducive for full recovery as just one day off doesnt feel like its made a difference.

[shark]

Here's one for the collective knowledge of UKB. Looking to make some decent gains in 2009, and I am up'ing the frequency of my training. The issue is that it is taking me two days to recover between sessions.
Previous:
Climb / Train Wed; Sore Thurs / Fri; Climb / Train Sat; Recover Sun / Mon;   - two sessions a week.

Will the recovery between sessions start to shorten as the body adapts?

Any top tips for shortening recovery between sessions? I eat pretty healthily, and will take the odd protein shake post session for recovery.

I make that three sessiopns in your previous schedule and Tuesday is missing !!

It depends what you are training for. If its for routes then upping to 4 or even 5 days a week of diffrent sessions make sense in getting your body to adapt to volume. If specifically for bouldering only then 3 sessions a week would be more typical. Fingerboard after climbing as a double session is one way to slot something extra in if you can face it.

[marty]

Here's one for the collective knowledge of UKB. Looking to make some decent gains in 2009, and I am up'ing the frequency of my training. The issue is that it is taking me two days to recover between sessions.
Previous:
Climb / Train Wed; Sore Thurs / Fri; Climb / Train Sat; Recover Sun / Mon;   - two sessions a week.

Will the recovery between sessions start to shorten as the body adapts?

Any top tips for shortening recovery between sessions? I eat pretty healthily, and will take the odd protein shake post session for recovery.

I make that three sessiopns in your previous schedule and Tuesday is missing !!

It depends what you are training for. If its for routes then upping to 4 or even 5 days a week of diffrent sessions make sense in getting your body to adapt to volume. If specifically for bouldering only then 3 sessions a week would be more typical. Fingerboard after climbing as a double session is one way to slot something extra in if you can face it.

Prevously I've been climbing Sat  and  Wed. I cant get out Tuesday. Basically it was a 6 day cycle.

Specifically looking to improve bouldering. Current stretch is upto Font6c, and Font7a on a really really good day, that maybe I've done before.

Strongest I've ever been is Font 7b / 7b+. I would like to consistently climb Font 7a / 7b and stretch to Font 7c within a year.

[marty]

Keep the feedback coming, its good stuff. 

[shark]

Clearly I can't count 

To make the best of your sessions you could target weaknesses. Are you more a strong/static type climber or a dynamic/recruiter type ? If the former you might prioritise recruitment work to compensate if the latter then hypertrophy type work. Similarly if there are grip positions you are weak on you should train these first in a fingerboard session.

Or you could work your strengths and choose problems that suit you.