[roddersm]

Sorry guys I know this isn't a bouldering topic but this is the best forum for climbing so I thought I'd ask hear. I'm off to siurana next week for a week and want to get a few good 7a's and 7a+s ticked. Basically I'm looking for good routes that aren't too run out because I'm scared off falling off, or too reachy becaause I'm short. 

Cheers.

[Kingy]

Yo man, I went to Suirana in December last year and it was damn cold! Snow on the ground, daily fog, rain and freezing winds, not ideal but we did do a fair bit. Of the stuff around that grade that we did, I would recommend the following - the sectors are all v close to the campsite/ refuge:

L'Olla

Guate aqui hay tomate 7a - a nice slab excursion with a testing crux at the top (where it should be)
Valga'm deu quin patir 7a+ - a nice pockety steep wall with some fierce moves

Primavera

Mandragora to first loweroff 7b - can you raise the bar by one grade? If so, this will rock your world, a pumpfest of the highest order up gorgeous orange streak
Remena nena 7a+ - looks excellent wall climbing; we didn't do this one but its a classic!

Village Crags

If you are stuck on a rainy day, this stays dry.

Remulo y Romo 7a - a nice pumper with a reachy initial crux off a pocket
May thing song ales zinc and punk 7a - a toughie at the grade with an improbable finishing roof!!
Pizza de pinya 7a - looks excellent, worth ticking even if on the way back from Campi qui Puigi.
Hostia 7b - if you can cope with 7b, this is a great sustained outing, knocking on the door of 7b+! Maybe one for the end of the trip?

Campi Qui Puigi

Toca-me-la sam 6c+ - a technical tricky number with numerous blind alleys, prepare to queue or go early
Tasta 7a - next to the above, much harder and funky finish
Delicatessen 7a+ the motherlode, we didn't do this but did the 7b+ to its right, looks mega!

If you buy the local topo when ur there from the campsite bar you won't go far wrong. There are other sectors that I never went to like Montsant, El Falco, Suiranella and Arboli which will have a shed load of low sevens. I think Suiranella in particular has some slabbier numbers. Have a good one!

[roddersm]

Thanks man thats some good info.

[ksjs]

reachy shouldnt be a problem but run out may be; many routes arent quite as well-bolted as you might like, not run out but you could be falling longer than you would normally be comfortable with.

Remena Nena as recommended is superb but its not easy at 7a, id say 7a+ and this certainly does feel run out

other recommendations:

L'Olla area:

Valga'm Deu quin patir! 7a+ (also recommended above)

Cargol treu banya 7a

both these are face climbing with some pocket pulling

El Pati area (RHS):

Crosta Panic P1 7a+ cool face climbing, quite technical with steep finish (crux)
there are some new lines in this area and you can get full info from the bar at the campsite. 2 of these new lines are:

Unknown 7a this is the 4th line left of Crosta Panic. steady with good climbing throughout, just keep going.

Ay Mamitz (or similar - i couldnt quite make out the writing in the master topo at the bar) 7a+. i havent done this but did belay someone on it and by all accounts its very good, not cruxy just steady and long - youll need a 70m rope as you probably will for the 7a also. its the 5th line left of Crosta Panic i.e. just left of the 7a i mention above.

El Cargol (the big pillar) area:

Llepet Nicotonic 7a nothing outstanding but i really enjoyed this, a few moves through the steep part and a tricky finale

Espero Primavera area:

Pepiti va de curt 6c+ great value and great climbing - not easy at the grade, a mix of technical and physical

Mandragora 7b+ is awesome but harder than youre after but, if you can do the crux which is low down, you should get the tick as its stamina afterwards though there are a few tricky moves moving away from the 1st belay but after this its just more stamina with maybe one final difficulty to reach the 2nd belay. by the way id ignore comments about 1 or 2 pitches as i think there are 2 belays simply to allow people with 60m rope to do the route.

L'Aparador area:

Petitona 7b perfect climbing and not too hard though quite technical, well-bolted

i havent done anything else in this sector but was told the 2 7bs to the right (Rauxa and P1 of route 13 in local guide) are ok for 7b and well-bolted

by the way, this wall is beautiful in the evening as the fading sun makes it glow

Grau dels Masets (d'abaix) area:

Pluja de pedres 7a+ superb but quite evil pockets towards the end

Cenar, beber, emborracharse... 6c is supposed to be one of the best at the grade in Siurana. i havent done but again i did belay someone on this and it looks very cool

Can Melafots area:

Cop de Sol 6c+ not the most inspiring looking rock / area but there are some very good routes here including this one

Gat reggae 6c quality climbing with varied moves

Can Marges (d'abaix) area:

No dan bolsa 6c+ varied climbing, quite technical towards the end

Can Piqui Pugui area (Siuranas showpiece cliff and very inspiring):

Delicatessen 7a+ is brilliant and a must do: stiff move to kick things off then pocket pulling and a bit of power / stamina

Tocame-la Sam 6c+ as recommended by Kingy is class but not easy

the crack to the right of this El iogurin 7a is brilliant but again not easy (there arent many soft routes in Siurana*): crack climbing with a lovely headwall

*depending on what youre good at or like and where youve climbed before dont be surprised if you find it frustratingly difficult, it takes a bit of getting used to.

have a great time!

[ChrisC]

Agree with what Ted and ksjs said...

Would also add that El Falco is awesome around the grades you are looking for.  Watch out for the wind though as its quite exposed.  More than worth the effort if you like long routes. You'll need a car too.

There were a couple of good easy 7ish things at the Suirenella central area up an orange wall off a ledge.

And 100m? left of Mandagora there was a 7a that went up a white pillar.  Good crimpy wall climbing. Llepet Nicotonic? 

Round the corner towards L'oya then there was another 7a+ up an orangey wall with a steep finish to the chains - Crosta Panic.

Apologies for the lack of names - No guide to hand.

[MorganW]

Pizza de Pinya is a great route but does have a bit of a spicy runout in the middle.

Grau des Masets has some great routes and is a good shade option. Es Algo is a good 7a and there is an awesome looking 6c flake traverse that Toni bolted.

As said above El Falco is a great shade option...p1 of Per Tutatis is one of the best 7a's around.

Can be worth getting the local guide as well as the rockfax.

I also heard about but couldn't find a supposedly amazing 7a directly across from La Rambla which starts near some iron rungs....anyone know about it?