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Top twenty UK bouldering venues (Read 48068 times)

Pantontino

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Top twenty UK bouldering venues
March 10, 2009, 10:53:58 am
In response to JB's assertion (in the Bouldering in the Pass thread: http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,11185.msg189749.html#new) that:

"Porth Ysgo is a great venue, in the top 2 best venues in Wales I think, though it does need bearing in mind neither would get in the top 20 venues in the UK..."

Dare I suggest the following, in no particular order, just off the top of my head;

Almscliff
Caley
Earl
Brimham
Slipstones
Widdop
Kyloe in
Burbage
Plantation
Parisella’s
Wavelength
Porth Ysgo
Bowderstone
Dumbarton
Crag X
Bonehill
St Bees
Pex Hill
High Rocks
The Roaches

Some of these cover quite broad areas (e.g I'm including the Barrel in Wavelength)

( :wave: and then runs for cover)

Mike Tyson

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#1 Re: Top twenty UK bouldering venues
March 10, 2009, 11:04:43 am
Woohoo! I've been to 10 of the venues on the list! The ones I have been to were all great so can't moan really. May I add Cratcliffe? Lovely peaceful venue with a nice ambience and great problems.

SA Chris

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#2 Re: Top twenty UK bouldering venues
March 10, 2009, 11:12:06 am
I have been to 12 of those, and Torridon would be up amongst them. Cratcliffe / Robin Hood's Stride (smaller area than Brimham for example) as a combined venue would / should go in too, as would Glen Nevis.

Bonjoy

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#3 Re: Top twenty UK bouldering venues
March 10, 2009, 11:17:48 am
Some of the things on the list seem to be only there for diplomatic reasons. Realistically do you really think High Rocks and Bonehill are better bouldering venues than Cratcliff/RHS, Wimberry, Newstones/Baldstones or Crookrise?
A totally honest list would be based on nothing but crag merit, surely?  :shrug:

Pantontino

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#4 Re: Top twenty UK bouldering venues
March 10, 2009, 11:19:56 am
Fair point abour cratcliffe/RHS - swap for St Bees

Torridon - I've heard very good things about this, so I'll take your word for it - swap for Crag X

Glen Nevis is very good and is a contender, but I'm not completely swayed on that one - maybe swap for Pex (cue outrage from Scouse contingent)

Almscliff
Caley
Earl
Brimham
Slipstones
Widdop
Kyloe in
Burbage
Plantation
Parisella’s
Wavelength
Porth Ysgo
Bowderstone
Dumbarton
Torridon
Bonehill
Cratcliffe/RHS
Pex Hill
High Rocks
The Roaches

Pantontino

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#5 Re: Top twenty UK bouldering venues
March 10, 2009, 11:24:41 am
Some of the things on the list seem to be only there for diplomatic reasons. Realistically do you really think High Rocks and Bonehill are better bouldering venues than Cratcliff/RHS, Wimberry, Newstones/Baldstones or Crookrise?
A totally honest list would be based on nothing but crag merit, surely?  :shrug:

Okay, okay, I did say it was just off the top of my head. Lets drop High Rocks and Bonehill and put in something else - not sure about your suggestions though? I don't think Wimberry or Crookrise quite cut it - granted they are both good, but truly great?

SA Chris

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#6 Re: Top twenty UK bouldering venues
March 10, 2009, 11:38:59 am
Not been to St Bees, Crag X or Pex, so can't comment.

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#7 Re: Top twenty UK bouldering venues
March 10, 2009, 11:40:02 am
It's a pretty good list to be honest. However St Bees should definitely stay (as should Pex!!), and High Rocks should definitely go. I don't like Almscliff and would rather cut my hands off then climb in The Cave, but I can see their place on the list. And yes you've proved the point, Ysgo is definitely on. What about the Brideys?

SA Chris

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#8 Re: Top twenty UK bouldering venues
March 10, 2009, 11:41:13 am
Shirley some of the Lakes / S Lakes spots are better than Crookrise. Nice crag, but not a great bouldering venue.

Pantontino

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#9 Re: Top twenty UK bouldering venues
March 10, 2009, 11:51:33 am
What about the Brideys?

I agree it is a great venue, but pretty trashed nonetheless.

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#10 Re: Top twenty UK bouldering venues
March 10, 2009, 11:52:32 am
I can get to Pex in 30 minutes from my house but I'd sooner travel the extra 4 hours to go to Bowden Doors

Pantontino

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#11 Re: Top twenty UK bouldering venues
March 10, 2009, 11:58:12 am
Almscliff
Caley
Earl
Brimham
Slipstones
Widdop
Kyloe in
Burbage
Plantation
Parisella’s
Wavelength
Porth Ysgo
Bowderstone
Dumbarton
Torridon
Bonehill
Cratcliffe/RHS
Pex Hill
Newstones/Baldstones/Gibb Tor
The Roaches

Bowden Doors is another 'trashed' venue, no?

nik at work

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#12 Re: Top twenty UK bouldering venues
March 10, 2009, 12:02:06 pm
Brideys is trashed, I live five minutes away and probably visit the place less than half a dozen times a year.

Rivelin Quarries? :)


slackline

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#13 Re: Top twenty UK bouldering venues
March 10, 2009, 12:03:43 pm
What this thread needs is a Survey Monkey.

Go to the above and choose your top twenty crags, they're listed alphabetically (easiest and quickest way, too much hassle to do it geographically)

At present its a bit sparse as it only has crags from Yorkshire Grit, Lakes Bloc, JAVU (Dartmoor Bouldering), the bouldering venues in Scotland with guides listed here and from memory the areas in the Peak that I can remember.

I realise there will be tons of areas missed off so if anyone has a simple list of the bouldering venues stick them up here and I shall add them in (in which case you might want to hold back on completing the survey until such time as they have been added).

GCW

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#14 Re: Top twenty UK bouldering venues
March 10, 2009, 01:24:31 pm
Brideys is trashed, I live five minutes away and probably visit the place less than half a dozen times a year.

Mainly 'cos you never manage to climb anything there  :whistle:
What no Brownstones?

If you're putting in groups like Gibb/New/Baldstones, I strongly agree with the Widdop valley- Clattering Stones, Scout Crag, Scout Hut Crag, Widdop and Dovestones.

Carrock Fell?
And whilst I quite like Brimham, a lot of the rock appears to be made of broken digestive biscuits.

slackline

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#15 Re: Top twenty UK bouldering venues
March 10, 2009, 01:29:01 pm
Oh and if anyone wants to suggest grouping for crags as per GCW's post below let me know and I shall modify the survey appropriately.

SA Chris

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#16 Re: Top twenty UK bouldering venues
March 10, 2009, 01:47:26 pm
Surely Bowden / Back Bowden could then be classed as a single venue?

dave

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#17 Re: Top twenty UK bouldering venues
March 10, 2009, 01:50:25 pm
pinches wall
little extra area
bens roof area
powerband area
saline drip area
kudos wall
millers tale/whitebait area
rubicon warmup traverse area
cragX
minus ten
beginners wall
griffs trave buttress
opposite seans roof
candy buttress
beef
impossible roof
pillbox
kyloe in
burbage
eatswood

slackline

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#18 Re: Top twenty UK bouldering venues
March 10, 2009, 01:51:39 pm
Surely Bowden / Back Bowden could then be classed as a single venue?

Okay done that, perhaps if people hang back on completing the survey until there is a list of venues that includes local knowledge on which venues should be grouped together then a clearer picture will emerge from respondents as opposed to personal view on the top 20.

GCW

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#19 Re: Top twenty UK bouldering venues
March 10, 2009, 02:16:14 pm
I ain't voting til you add Brownstones and Portlethen (and spell Froggart [sic] correctly).

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#20 Re: Top twenty UK bouldering venues
March 10, 2009, 02:29:08 pm
pinches wall
little extra area
bens roof area
powerband area
saline drip area
kudos wall
millers tale/whitebait area
rubicon warmup traverse area
cragX
minus ten
beginners wall
griffs trave buttress
opposite seans roof
candy buttress
beef
impossible roof
pillbox
kyloe in
burbage
eatswood

Now you're talking.

slackline

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#21 Re: Top twenty UK bouldering venues
March 10, 2009, 02:30:40 pm
I ain't voting til you add Brownstones and Portlethen (and spell Froggart [sic] correctly).

Done, done, done.

Plus I've added the locations listed at South Lancs Bouldering and Blackstone Edge (just for you GCW  :)).

Perhaps consider this survey a first draught whilst awaiting further entries and/or consolidation of venues.  Once thats done I shall redo the survey and repost.

SA Chris

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#22 Re: Top twenty UK bouldering venues
March 10, 2009, 02:49:12 pm
I fyou are doing it properly, you need to change Ship Boulder (Torridon) to Torridon. Lot more there than just the ship (although the ship is all that is wtitten up on SC).

slackline

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#23 Re: Top twenty UK bouldering venues
March 10, 2009, 02:59:28 pm
I fyou are doing it properly, you need to change Ship Boulder (Torridon) to Torridon. Lot more there than just the ship (although the ship is all that is wtitten up on SC).

Done  :)

Anymore insight or lists of crags/venues for Scotland welcome (what about a link to that map you and Andi_e were adding stuff to, does that have much on it in terms of bouldering, or is its stuff not documented elsewhere?).

SA Chris

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#24 Re: Top twenty UK bouldering venues
March 10, 2009, 03:05:13 pm
That map was undocumented stuff, mostly small venues. Can add a few others, will need to review.

 

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