[jordysi]

Me, Fatboyslimfast (and his better 1/2), and a team are heading to North Wales Easter weekend.... I've never been, any recomendations on areas, problems (6c-7a font) that are amazin..., where we can stay (bunk barn type things).  Thinking of going off to the coast as well port ysgol... (sp)

Bit of Local knowledge would be great, also is Si Panton's 2004 guide book still the best?

   

[hairich]

hi , the best starting point is the cromlech boulders in the pass to warm up on some classics. then head up the opposite side of the hill to the barrell. the




minimum is a great problem. head across the hillside to boysens groove. one of the best probs in wales.also loads of other cool probs all over this area.

off to coast to porth ysgo.one of the best venues in britain. better than st bees for seaside bouldering. sds to truth awesome.

next day off to sheep pen. amazing location.has a real mountain feel to it.loads of classics by jerry and the locals.the raf fly down the valley in tornados and you are looking into the cocpits. then a short afternoon at the casseg boulder. this is bloody hard to find so pm panton on this site for info plus his guide is great.

last day off to the cave on the drive home.

stay at farm above llanberis in tent or bunkhouse ask for fiona

[Jim]

Go do king of drunks and lordy lordy, 2 of the best problems in the pass

[jordysi]

nice one hairich don't suppose you got the name of the farm, or even a contact number have you?

[hairich]

thier website is camping in llanberis.all details on there.have a great weekend.

i maybe there myself so will pm you if so and meet up.

[Bubba]

I thought that Fatboyslimfast knew the pass like the back of his cock?

[fatboySlimfast]

I do, baldy bastard Si doesnt trust me after bitching about the Killers






twatting him on his bald spot with a meat tenderizer possibly might have done it as well

[Paul B]

off to coast to porth ysgo.one of the best venues in britain. better than st bees for seaside bouldering. sds to truth awesome.

bullshit and bollocks.

[account_inactive]

It's not in the Pass and it's not the cave

[hairich]

bit strong paul. you must have missed out on the unspoilt beauty of sitting on a deserted beach on a warm spring day,listening to waves crashing

[Paul B]

bit strong paul. you must have missed out on the unspoilt beauty of sitting on a deserted beach on a warm spring day,listening to waves crashing

The unspoilt beauty? climbing next to a wedged in blue barrel, old empty plastic containers etc. give me a break. Both venues are next to the sea. They both have the same potential, the only difference is the climbing at St. Bees is a million miles better. Ok, so on a summer day its going to look a whole lot nicer but you simply cannot suggest this is one of the best areas in Britain it simply isn't. As an indicator the darn SS's have specified handholds, not simply what you can reach from the floor but whatever you can scrabble ever lower for.

[Pantontino]

bit strong paul. you must have missed out on the unspoilt beauty of sitting on a deserted beach on a warm spring day,listening to waves crashing

The unspoilt beauty? climbing next to a wedged in blue barrel, old empty plastic containers etc. give me a break. Both venues are next to the sea. They both have the same potential, the only difference is the climbing at St. Bees is a million miles better. Ok, so on a summer day its going to look a whole lot nicer but you simply cannot suggest this is one of the best areas in Britain it simply isn't. As an indicator the darn SS's have specified handholds, not simply what you can reach from the floor but whatever you can scrabble ever lower for.

I've always enjoyed the peaceful ambience at Porth Ysgo. The rock is perfect, there are well over a hundred quality low - mid grade problems (200 if you include the stuff on the headland). The only arse is the landings, which are fine with a few pads.

St Bees is a good venue too, but there is much less to go at and you really have lost the plot if you think the climbing is a "million miles better".

You make Porth Ysgo sound like some crappy junkyard where all the problems are shite eliminates. You must have been to a different crag to me then. 

[dave]

porth ysgo is a brilliant venue. its best sampled with a carfull of mates on a sunny winter day. The fact the landings aren't great will not matter with a few mats and spotters, and you can go around doing everything you like the look of, finishing the day with shredded hands. I've had some memorable days out there, and plus there's not many other places like it.

However it would be a terrible venue to go on your own, or to have a project there since the rock is so over-grippy, and even in winter its always boiling.

[Pantontino]

Me, Fatboyslimfast (and his better 1/2), and a team are heading to North Wales Easter weekend.... I've never been, any recomendations on areas, problems (6c-7a font) that are amazin..., where we can stay (bunk barn type things).  Thinking of going off to the coast as well port ysgol... (sp)

Bit of Local knowledge would be great, also is Si Panton's 2004 guide book still the best?
 

Hair rich's suggestions are all good, but just be mindful of the weather scenario. Hang out in the mountains if you can (Wavelength hillside and Barrel in the Pass, or Caseg Fraith, Sheep Pen, Braichmelyn and the Caseg boulder in the Ogwen Valley) and go to the coast if the weather closes in. Porth Ysgo can be very warm outwith the winter months, but if you haven't been before this won't matter (except perhaps to your skin!) as there are loads of accessible classics to go at. If the weather gets really bad, then your options are Carreg Hylldrem which is a good laugh (4 really excellent independent V4/6Bs and as many fun eliminates as you can invent), or the Llandudno Ormes.

The 2004 guide is still the best for general useage, but there's a new guide to the Parisella's Cave area coming out in a fortnight:

http://www.groundupclimbing.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=230

This area has a rep for hard climbing (and there is probably more hard problems in the cave than any other small venue in the UK, maybe even Europe), but there are some really excellent 6C - 7A stuff too. Go and do Breck Road 6C+, Burning Sphincter 6C, Parisella's Overhang 7A/+. If you go up to V7/7A+ or V8/7B there is a huge amount of quality lines to try. The only down side is that if there is a significant temp rise the rock can turn damp - this is quite rare and you'd be unlucky to be caught out this way.

[Johnny Brown]

As an indicator the darn SS's have specified handholds,

I can't remember ever doing any sit-starts at Porth Ysgo to be honest, perhaps that was your mistake? It's a great venue, in the top 2 best venues in Wales I think, though it does need bearing in mind neither would get in the top 20 venues in the UK...

[Pantontino]

Porth Ysgo is a great venue, in the top 2 best venues in Wales I think, though it does need bearing in mind neither would get in the top 20 venues in the UK...

Of course you are wrong, but I'll have to start a new thread to answer that one JB.

[Houdini]

The unspoilt beauty? climbing next to a wedged in blue barrel, old empty plastic containers etc. give me a break.

FFS Paul_ you've just described every coastal venue, climbing or no, in the western hemisphere.

There are no gabbro, coastal areas w/ in as easy reach as Porth Ysgo in Europe.  It's an excellent venue w/ problems up to 7C and more for the pioneer.  It's incredibly beautiful.  If that's lost on you, then poor you, stick to the cave and the crowds of screaming emaciated youths, more for the connoisseur on the coast.

 

[cofe]

ysgo does seem to be getting a bashing. it's probably my favourite venue in wales, a top venue in the uk. loads of good problems.

[Jim]

you tripping word????
you not been to the cave? best venue in Wales the UK me thinks.
Anyone who disagree's is either weak or has no taste in climbing just plain weak

[Houdini]

problems up to 7C

Problems upto 8A+, sorry.

[Paul B]

oh yes that "line" (V11?) near ugly women start on the ultra low low undercut. Looking back over photos it was a miserable day so I might be being a touch harsh however I do think some judgement is being clouded by the affect a bright summers day might have on your opinion on the place. Each to their own.