[Steve R]

Everyone, wads (well sometimes in mags and stuff) and punters alike, rattle on about 'working weaknesses'.  I remember seeing a 'strength test' (?) thread somewhere but couldn't find it with the search - I think this was designed to highlight weaknesses but if I recall correctly was understandably biased to the power/bouldering end of the scale.  As I understand it, people are pre-disposed to be naturally better at power/power endurance/endurance depending where their genetics place them on that spectrum.  I fancy myself as an allrounder so as such, would be interested to know methods of identifying weaknesses and finding where I fit on said spectrum.  So, to cut to the chase, anyone know of any methods to identify relative weaknesses? Or equally, identify relative strngths or what you're naturally likely to be better at?  (excluding non-physical variables)

I suspect most just 'know' what you're good and not so good at, both physically and in terms of technique, etc.  And then train accordingly to redress the balance if they feel the need to?

My problem is, with a few notable exceptions (flexibility, use of heels, and some other stuff..) I have no idea of what I'm better/worse at and, I suppose, wouldn't mind finding out if possible...  (If for no other other reason than to help decide whether to put effort into the likes of supercool or the likes of overnite this year.  )

[Adam Lincoln]

Its a good idea to ask your climbing partners what they think your weaknesses are. They see first hand and are perhaps best placed to suggest what yours are.

[joswald]

There is an interesting NG article on the PF website.
James

[abarro81]

Steve, you have 2 main weaknesses
- You don't give me enough lifts to rubicon and the tor
- You don't eat enough muffins

More seriously, my presumption has always been that you've been more of a power man than a stamina man, but now I think about it I'm not really sure what I'm basing that on... Sorry, useless.

[shark]

(If for no other other reason than to help decide whether to put effort into the likes of supercool or the likes of overnite this year.  )

Your weakness is..... a lame attitiude to redpointing if that quote is anything to go by. And living in Hull.

[JohnH]

Personally, I've found this a bit of a tough one too, and other than (and related to) what Adam suggested, I've found that just trying to analyse your climbing from a more neutral perspective really helps, ie: it's really easy to point out other peoples weaknesses, whereas it's all too easy to fall into bad habits, neglect certain aspects of your own climbing or let your own assumptions (ie: thinking "I'm just shit on pockets/overhangs/pinches") get the better of you, instead of allowing you to focus on and attack that weakness until it becomes natural. One thing that helps is to look at footage/photos of yourself climbing, whether this be bouldering clips that your mate shot at the crag or just leaving your camera phone running while you're training on a board; and then analysing the footage as though it was someone else, paying close attention to where your centre of gravity appears to be and where it's obvious that a more efficient sequence could be.

This only really helps in terms of refining your technique/footwork etc on a general level (for example I realised that I rely on my flexibility too much sometimes, just over-complicating sequences; and also that I really need to work on my shoulders for more open moves and on making better use of and strengthening my core) whereas I've never really needed to analyse whether or not I'm a better on routes than boulders because my stamina is laughable, so it's never really been a question for me, anyway, hope that helps.

There is an interesting NG article on the PF website.

Translation=There is an interesting Neil Gresham article on the Planetfear website 

[chillax]

I realised that I rely on my flexibility too much sometimes, just over-complicating sequences

Amen to that you bendy fecker! 

I've never really needed to analyse whether or not I'm a better on routes than boulders because my stamina is laughable

Don't worry, that'll get sorted at Ailladie this summer!

[webbo]

  I fancy myself

if you follow the example of the white rasta and spend time sitting in the cafe with your shirt off.i'm sure the path to enlightenment will be yours for the taking. 

[Steve R]

yes, way of the white rasta....you might be on to something there webbo.  I'm sure he and his entourage will have some firm and well thought out opinions to offer about all this anyway.

[webbo]

maybe as that young man suggested bin the weights and stick with bodyweight exs.i've heard there are things called push ups and pull downs that are supposed to be good.