[michal]

I'm wondering how many moves people typically do per session.  Obviously this will be a bit different depending on the workout, so perhaps we can break it down into a power session, performance bouldering day, and a power endurance training session.  How many moves do you do for each, after warmup.

I've realized that when I go to do a power session at the gym or hangboard session I have have no clue how many hard problems I should be attempting or how many hangs I should be doing.

Thanks.

[Monolith]

I tend to do 50-60 sets x 1 move on the board.

(Semi) Jokingly aside, I rate trying to do 4-5 hard hand movements on a 45-50 degree board whilst keeping feet on smeary screwons on the kickboard or at the base of the angled panel if the holds are marginally better.

There will be better advice to come but I'm a fan of this methodology.

[St Hubbins]

More of a question that would be better posted on ukclimbing rather than here, and they would no doubt say that counting moves is inadvertantly supporting nationalism.

Endurance sessions for me are measured in distance and time and how pumped i get.
Power sessions, i usually repeat some stuff i find easy then move up to something i've recently done and see how much easier that felt than last time. then i get on projects and bang at them till they start giving in.

[slackline]

I always make sure I do 420 moves per session (in a tenuous homage to Douglas Adams answer), irrespective of how many problems I do 

[richdraws]

More of a question that would be better posted on ukclimbing rather than here, and they would no doubt say that counting moves is inadvertantly supporting nationalism.

Is it fuck.

It has already been said that the europeans do more moves and circuits could be of benefit to peoples climbing (Stu Littlefair?). I would like some more info on how people have responded to higher or lower volume, strength gains, hypertrophy gains, fitness gains, technique gains, injury?

[GCW]

Firstly, we need to define a move.
Is every change of foothold a move?  Is every handhold a move?  Is adjusting a hold from a pinch to an undercut a move?  Is tapping the back of your hand on the last hold a move?

After this, we may be able to give you a more accurate answer.

[Paul B]

It has already been said that the europeans do more moves and circuits could be of benefit to peoples climbing (Stu Littlefair?). I would like some more info on how people have responded to higher or lower volume, strength gains, hypertrophy gains, fitness gains, technique gains, injury?

From an outside view; stu does seem to be going 'rather' well at the moment with his high volume strategy. Its certainly interesting, whether or not I'd have the mental strength to go round and round in a euro stamina woody i'm not so sure.

[north_country_boy]

I joined Stu for a 800move eurowad inspired session recently.

Although hard work, it wa very endurance and recovery based which is great for spanish crags, and if you see this as your main weakness area, but not as beneficial if you are relatively fit. The timed recovery element is interesting though, and the structured timings and circuits of a specific number of moves were obviously devised after much thought and practice not just some stoned, dreadlocked Spaniards guess-timates....

Therefore I think the whole 'no. of moves' question needs to be specific for what you are training, power, power endurance, endurance, etc...... For me, it would be more beneficial to be doing a higher intensity (more difficult circuits etc) but less moves, to improve my power endurance......

Identify your weaknesses & objectives first......

[joswald]

Therefore I think the whole 'no. of moves' question needs to be specific for what you are training, power, power endurance, endurance, etc...... For me, it would be more beneficial to be doing a higher intensity (more difficult circuits etc) but less moves, to improve my power endurance......


I think you mean endurance of strength. Power endurance is technically incorrect.
James

[Adam Lincoln]

I think you mean endurance of strength. Power endurance is technically incorrect.
James

We know whats he means and its what everyone else calls it.

[north_country_boy]

I think you mean endurance of strength. Power endurance is technically incorrect.
James

No he doesn't.

Correct Adam. No i didn't mean 'endurance of strength'.

To add to my earlier post. I don't we should look at the Spanish and replicate what they do in their training for the UK, the style of routes is often very different, with UK limestione being more about power (RHS of the Tor/Rubicon) and power endurance (Malham catwalk) and lots of the Spanish Crags being more about endurance and to a lesser extent power endurance.

However it is safe to say 99% of people in the UK don't 'train', and we could all massively increase the intensity and volume of our training sessions.

[reeve]

I joined Stu for a 800move eurowad inspired session recently.

...and the structured timings and circuits of a specific number of moves were obviously devised after much thought and practice not just some stoned, dreadlocked Spaniards guess-timates....

I'd be really interested in the specifics of this, as I'm going for volume over difficulty atm, given the poor state of my elbows. Would appreciate it if you could elaborate?

[michal]

In an effort to pare this down:

My goals: harder bouldering.  I boulder about V7 consistently in a day with the occasional V8.  Would like to increase this in order to climb some things that have inspired me in Yosemite.

My weaknesses: body tension on big, steep moves; finger strength on steep walls.

Leaving out endurance training for the moment, how many hard moves in a typical boulder training session for 1) circuits, 2) working on maximum power gains.

Thanks.

[joswald]

"Note, strictly speaking power endurance should be called 'strength endurance', though in the climbing world we like our own rules!"

http://www.8a.nu/?IncPage=http%3A//www.8a.nu/articles/ShowArticle.aspx%3FArticleId%3D1683

[GCW]

Don't believe everything you read on the internet 8a.nu.

Physiologically speaking, strength is the ability of the neuromuscular system to produce force.  Power is the amount of work done over time.  So I can see where they are coming from, but what they are talking about is the ability to train force output (strength) over time.

Feel free to argue amongst yourselves

[chillax]

Don't believe everything anything you read on the internet 8a.nu.

[abarro81]

I joined Stu for a 800move eurowad inspired session recently.

Holy frickin shit. Was that when I saw you guys doing circuits on the wave? How did you manage to fit 800 moves in (i.e. length of circuits + reps)?

[mian0503]

 - Start every session with about 200 easy moves of warm up.
A move for me: no matching, moving opposite hands every time,


- strength session about 100-150 moves on hard (for me) boulderproblems.

- strength-endurance 250-350 moves depending on the type of training(minutetraining, 4by4, circuit etc.)

- endurance 600-1200 moves.

 It all depends on which week i am in. Train progressively for 3 weeks, 1 week easy. and so on...4 week block. ex. endurance(600-700-800-800-900-1000-1000-1100-1200) three days of climbing a week. the other days some other type of training running, tension etc.

hope it helped a bit, and forgive me for my bad English!

Mikael

[michal]

Thanks Mikael, that's very helpful.  I'll try it out.