[205Chris]

Anyone know what size peg fits the pocket on No More Excuses at Stanage?

I'm not after any more beta than this I just don't want to ab the route first or buy a whole bunch of pegs I won't use again.

Thanking you.

[Palomides]

I placed a long channel peg (dunno if that's the right name? U-shaped cross-section, about 2cm by 2cm) and then shoved a smaller blade peg in above it to make it solid.

It wasn't tested in a fall, but didn't ping out when my second was swinging around haplessly, so pretty solid.

I suspect some sort of chunky slider nut might fit, but I recommend taking a whole bunch of stuff - you don't have to carry it far, and can always drop the bits you don't need.

[RopeBoy]

Carry a bit of corrugated cardboard in your chalk bag just to pack the peg in to help stop it from moving up and out. It goes in quite well iirc.

J :-)

[Zods Beard]

Kudos to anyone who's climbed this route, looks great.

[Bonjoy]

 Fortunately for me I found a full rack of pegs abandoned on a route in the dolomites so had plenty to play about with when I did it. What you need is a channel peg about an inch deep at the fat end. This will fit in very snug without any need for packing material or extra pegs. I doubt the placement would work with any sliders i've seen but a very tiny tricam might work (if they go that small)

[etjoset]

I didn't have a channel peg so I used two lost arrow blades placed back-to-back. These work pretty well too and, although I didn't test them, I would have expected them to hold a fall. A large friend higher up was also useful. I think that I placed a 3.5, though the hard climbing is over by then. Super route.

[Johnny Brown]

Bearing in mind the crux is getting to the peg pocket, if you've half a head for heights you might be better just highballing it. For me fannying around with gear would have just made the start harder and the top (only 5c) more tiring.

[205Chris]

Cheers everyone for the info. I did think about the highball approach but as there is gear available I thought I might as well make use of it.

I'd forgotten my Dad had a bunch of old pegs from his climbing days which I've now raided and looks like I've got something that should fit. Just need to get on the route now.

[John Gillott]

It's no doubt because I'm very very unfit but I must confess to being a little pumped at the top and glad I had a rope and gear for that last move. I wonder what happened to this highballer - do you think he made it? 

http://www.moonclimbing.com/videos-c-367.html

As others have said, a channel peg is perfect.

[Johnny Brown]

Fair enough, I had always imagined I'd lead it too, anded up there on the way to Lowrider and just got in done. As a highball/ solo it still felt E4, no harder, and that's with only a couple of pads that were handy for the start but irrelevant by the top. As well as not getting pumped fannying with gear you get free use of the pocket for hands and feet too... I enjoyed it enough to have done it again since anyway.

Don't blame me if you hurt yourself mind

[Palomides]

I kind of agree that it'd be a lot less faff to solo it (or even just take a rope for the top), but for me, placing the peg was part of the fun of it - it's such an unusual placement that it'd be a shame not to use it.

No More Excuses without a hand-placed peg would be sort of like doing White Slab without doing the lasso & pendulum. You don't have to do it that way, but it's part of the fun and the experience. 

[dave]

the pendulum on white slab is nonce-sense.

[Bonjoy]

...you get free use of the pocket for hands and feet too...

This isn't actually true as the peg goes in a smaller pocket above the three-in-one cluster used as a hold.
I'd have to say that the peg helped me man-up to do that move and now i've done it and know the moves/holds i'm pretty sure i'd be happy to highball it in future.
I think that if you're nervous enough to want to track down the correct size peg, then you're probably nervous enough to want to use it.

[John Gillott]

Yes indeed, the peg helped my confidence for the next move and then the Friend helped for the top move!

I guess if you're stopping off on the way to work / do a Font 7c+ soloing a, what, few English 5b/c moves stacked on top of a Font 6b? shouldn't be too much trouble. However, if soloing 5b / 5c onsight too high up for mats to help makes you feel nervous at the thought, then take some gear.

[Johnny Brown]

I guess if you're stopping off on the way to work / do a Font 7c+ soloing a, what, few English 5b/c moves stacked on top of a Font 6b? shouldn't be too much trouble.

Ironically enough the 7c+ in question is one Bonjoy has done but I've only failed on!

I thought the lower section was harder than font 6b, pretty tricky really. That said I am fairly comfortable on 5b/c moves at 20-25ft. If you're not ignore me....

[craic-head]

I wonder what happened to this highballer - do you think he made it?  
http://www.moonclimbing.com/videos-c-367.html

Help! Which vid do you mean? I can't find it...

[dave]

theres a vid of No More Excuses on the 2nd or third page of the moon videos bit. he's in a red shirt.