[Adam Lincoln]

Didn't see one of these threads anywhere.

So.

Classic must do's. Any grade really.
Tip and hints for the place.

Also, is this guide the latest if i order it before i go?
http://www.lakesclimber.com/terradets-p-11907.html?p=product

[Kingy]

I have been twice and really enjoyed it both times. All of the routes on the less steep left hand sector are well worth doing. Highlights include Jam Sesion 7b, Pasta sin Agua 7a+, Tarambana 7b+, some a bit polished but not excessively.

Then the steeper right hand sector is where the big boys' stuff begins, I have done Avant Match which is a really good 7c (possibly 7c+ with mootings of a broken hold). over-caffeinated sugary drink company looks an amazing 7c+ but is perhaps a bit polished. Effecto 2000 looks an incredible steep 8a. Primera Linea looks a good 8a to do, possibly one for the flash?? I have heard than Bon Viatge is a great route also.

Basically, the density of hard climbing on this right hand sector is gobsmacking. All very steep and long so pack your fitness!!! I have a one page A5 topo I can copy for you but don't know about the latest guide. Enjoy!

[T_B]

All on the left 7a+ - 7b+ are fab.

I fell off the 7c on the right - Avant mach?, and thought it was a bit too steep and polished for my liking.  The one immediately to the left of it (Occident?) looks nicer.

Orient is fantastic - nice moves and I guess soft at 7c+ (only 7c+ I've on-sighted).

Bon Vitage is absolutely stunning and soft at F8a (nevermind 8a+ which it gets in the guide!!). Very flash/on-sightable.

Primera Linea is more vertical and conditions dependent and I don't think particularly easy for F8a judging by watching folk on it.

L'Anarkista is the 8a+ of the crag and I don't believe soft for the grade as Sellers called it F8a+.

[Adam Lincoln]

All very steep and long so pack your fitness!!!

All that cave training will come in handy then   

[Adam Lincoln]

Bon Vitage is absolutely stunning and soft at F8a (nevermind 8a+ which it gets in the guide!!). Very flash/on-sightable.

I am a sucker for a soft holiday tick 

[Bonjoy]

I spent nearly month there in 07, fantastic crag! Virtually every route is a classic. The exceptions being two or three with nasty mono moves. The two main ones to avoid for this are Effect 2000 and Mallorca Es Funky. Some of the most popular ones such as Occident and over-caffeinated sugary drink company are a bit over polished, but are still great fun.

Best ones I did were: L’Anarkista – quite tough for Spanish 8a+, steep power endurance, reminded me a bit of the Oak in an unobvious way; Latido Del Mieda 8a – superb pumpy drainpipe tufas, a very striking line; Flix Flax 8a+ - not one of the more famous route here but most excellent, toughish boulder problems split by rests, very vertical technical. Also really loved Millenium (mad slab crux), Primea Linea (very flashable on a cool day, especially if reachy clips are in place), Orient, Xarapo De Basto, Formula Weekend, Energia Positiva and all the other ones I forget the name of! Bon Viatge is good and also the biggest soft touch at 8a+ you will ever come across, super flashable so long as you don’t fluff the slap (like I did).
Get as much fitness in before you go and you can’t fail to have an amazing trip.

[Adam Lincoln]

Nice one guys. And the guidebook, is it the one thats in the above link thats current?

[TobyD]

think i'd generally agree with most of the above knowledge: especially stay away from Effecte 2000 unless you like mono filth. over-caffeinated sugary drink company is an excellent 7c+. L'adrecador is a stunning 8a+ that not so many people seem to get on, with brilliant moves, and an upside down double knee bar rest. Un bonita session de mete y saca is good, and soft 7c+. Formula weekend is also good (sensing a theme here?) but hard for the grade as far as Bruixes goes. I thought Bon Viatge was a bit substandard as far as the rest of the crag goes, and probably mainly popular because it is a total path for the grade for tall people (like probably 7c+ ish if you can keep your feet on a large foothold for the crux) Having said that i'm probably bitter about not having done it!

Re guide: i honestly wouldn't bother if you want to climb on Bruixes and not any other crags, the refugio has a free colour photocopied topo, which is fine. The printed guide has some mega gift grades  i s'pose...

have a good one!

[Bonjoy]

Ditto what creantime said about the guide. Other than Bruixes it doesn't cover any other good quality single pitch stuff, the rest of the book is all low grade multipitch and a few scrappy local interest sport crags.

[Ged]

Latido del miedo (8a) is awesome.  Sustained bottom, good rest, then awesome tufa madness for ages.  Definitely the best route i did there

[niall mcnair]

Yaayy!!!

Terradetes is my favourite single crag on the continent, 'course there are other large area crags like Tarn but none have the sheer quality packed into nearly every route here....

Personally, I found most of the 7cs and 7c+s a little bit soft touch apart from over-caffeinated sugary drink company ( Harder than some of the 8as I thought anyway....tickticktickticktickticktickticktick!! )



Some pics here:  http://deftmoves.blogspot.com/2008/04/some-scots-getting-pumped-in-spain.html

I wouldn't bother with a guide, you can copy a topo from the refugio.

When we were there last april, we were getting up 7am as crag comes into sun at 1pm...only drawback to the place 

Also, worth noting there is a steep crag in the valley opp. Bruixes  and opp. a big multi-pitch face which has a collection (about 15) of very good routes from 7b to 8b+, forget the name but it's mentioned in Ste Macs article and again topo in the refugio.  Some very good 8as and up the middle section and an amazing 8a+ better than all the 8s at Bruixes....  Stays in shade all day and dry in rain.  Not as polished as Bruixes with grippier tufas

Have fun!!!

[Stu Littlefair]

Regina is the name of the place on the other side of the valley (and slightly back towards Camarasa/Lleida)

[Bonjoy]

For some odd and annoying reason that crag is not in the guide, despite being developed well before the guide was written.

[Stu Littlefair]

I think I have a topo of Regina at home somewhere. Will try and post a scan/photo of it on the vimeo group over the weekend...

[Adam Lincoln]

One final quickie guys.

If i wanted to turn up perfectly fit for here, which i do want too. What is the perfect training for it? Is it just long long routes on good holds, or is it hard sections to rests to hard sections.

Sorry, want to hit the rock running as it were.

Thanks again.

[TobyD]

lots of knee bars etc - possible to sprint between rests. Most routes don't really have any savage moves on them as far as i recall. Lots of pinching though.

[Bonjoy]

The routes are long with sections of sustained climbing punctuated by strenuous rest positions such as big jugs on steep ground or knee bars of varying usefullness/obviousness/painfullness.
If you can replicate this sort of thing at the wall you'll be quids in.
Any mileage in general, especially on slightly overhanging ground (most of terradets is fairly vertical compared to many sport crags) will help with the main skill which is reading moves quickly and correctly.

[Adam Lincoln]

Updated topo for anyone going soon. How has Bon Viatge still not got downgraded to 8a!
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_vr6YupCHn1E/SMPIyIcUDLI/AAAAAAAAAC0/IsRZn0AgbLw/s1600-h/Bruixes.png

[T_B]

And they've missed off Orient. Lame topo!

[MorganW]

And they've missed off Orient. Lame topo!

Here's a more complete one i dug up:

http://chezmorgs.blogspot.com/2009/05/terradets-topo.html

[Adam Lincoln]

And they've missed off Orient. Lame topo!

Here's a more complete one i dug up:

http://chezmorgs.blogspot.com/2009/05/terradets-topo.html

That's the older one, but few more things on it. Cheers.