[edshakey]

I have, but it's not going to fill my time quite the same - it's not exactly on my doorstep like running is! It'll be more of a trek to a wall than normal until depot reopens, and good days for winter trad/sport can be a bit rare.

However, I will make some effort to, especially since my partner is trying to console me by promising to get out trad-ing at some point, despite being the biggest fairweather climber I know - I'll be holding her to that! One freezing day at Brimham and I'm sure she'll be withdrawing it in an instant 

I am grateful that impact is what I need to avoid, rather than all forms of exercise involving my knee - could be a lot worse I suppose 

[SA Chris]

Bummer. Are you 100 % confident diagnosis is right? Worth a second opinion?

[edshakey]

Unfortunately confident. I got shown the MRI and it looks exactly like any Google image search result for bone bruise. And the doctor is a knee specialist. Reckon i'd just be kidding myself by trying to get it looked at again 

My next step is to ask for another chat about what I should/shouldn't/can/can't do, in more detail than today, since I think I was a bit shocked and didn't really know what to ask. Once I've established that, I can look at what I can do to keep busy, stay fit, and potentially get ahead on the rehab/prevention stuff - I'm sure it would benefit my knees in the long run to strengthen them, so if I can do that soon, it might help me get back out once the bruising has ceased.

[mrjonathanr]

When I had knee pain the physio advised uphill only- shorter strides, lower impact. Plus walking down makes for good intervals if he short and steep.

Might be a place to start when you’re ready?

[edshakey]

Good thinking. And I was hoping to be hill training anyway, so this could keep me on top of it.

[T_B]

Poles might help too.

Seems weird that the recovery time is longer than a stress fracture, not that I’ve ever heard of someone having a bruised bone tbh.

Hope it get better quickly. I’ve heard slant boards are the silver bullet for knees.

There’s always pool running if you’re fully psyched!

[SA Chris]

Maybe look at getting some trainer with a bit of a stack for when you get back?

[edshakey]

Poles might help too.

Seems weird that the recovery time is longer than a stress fracture, not that I’ve ever heard of someone having a bruised bone tbh.

Hope it get better quickly. I’ve heard slant boards are the silver bullet for knees.

There’s always pool running if you’re fully psyched!

Thanks, I'd not heard of it either, will keep looking into it - although from first impressions, lots of bone bruise information seem to talk about an impact from a projectile or similar, whereas mine seems to be from my own femur!

What is a slant board/what's it for? Never heard of them before. They appear flexibility related?

I was looking at poles anyway, this might make sure I do get them

Maybe look at getting some trainer with a bit of a stack for when you get back?

Yep another on my list - cushiony shoes for roads. Not massively worried if roads will cause me issues in fast shoes in the long term, just so long as I can run on them with something chunky when needed


Appreciate the help from all, if I get my act together I'll probably come out of this with improved strength and conditioning in other areas so maybe it'll all be a positive! Got to look for that silver lining

[SA Chris]

I had a few sessions with a guy who had done The Running School practitioner course, and he definitely highlighted some issues with my technique and I have had less (but not no!) injuries since.

[T_B]

https://www.physioparts.co.uk/muscle-power-slant-board?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIr8CTo-T5-wIViJ7tCh1wUQGXEAQYBSABEgL4cvD_BwE

Seth Demoor rated it for sorting his runner’s knee:

From 12 mins:

[Fiend]

Good luck Ed, and keep thinking of that freezing day at Brimham!

[edshakey]

I had a few sessions with a guy who had done The Running School practitioner course, and he definitely highlighted some issues with my technique and I have had less (but not no!) injuries since.

That is an unfortunate thing about this - I don't know for sure what the cause was. Too much hill running this year? One particular run? I did have a short fall onto a locked knee while bouldering indoors recently which was probably the worst instantaneous pain I've ever felt, but I already had a problem by that point so don't think that's it. Gonna keep researching.

https://www.physioparts.co.uk/muscle-power-slant-board?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIr8CTo-T5-wIViJ7tCh1wUQGXEAQYBSABEgL4cvD_BwE

Seth Demoor rated it for sorting his runner’s knee:

From 12 mins:

Will take a look, really appreciate the link.

Good luck Ed, and keep thinking of that freezing day at Brimham!

Cheers. When i'm freezing my arse off on some sandbagged offwidth, I'll try to remember that this is what I wanted 

[SA Chris]

IDK, could be any of a number of things, or could just be spannering it bouldering as you say.  Might be worth getting a pro to look at how you run though.

[chriss]

Last time I had shin splints one of my local physiotherapist's had an anti- gravity running machine.

It allowed me to train as normal without the impact. Well worth a Google in your area.

I've also got into yoga, you can do classes or in a spare room Hopefully you'll be out on it soon. I'm recovering from a stress fracture, so feel your frustration.

[mrjonathanr]

Well not climbing related (though it did stop from going to the wall, soI suppose there’s a tenuous connection) but sat in the dark without water and electricity because we have sprung a leak draining directly onto the main fuse board in the house.

3 hours later, LV still have not answered the phone. We have different expectations of what ‘home emergency’ cover might provide 

Ryanair pulled a number on Tuesday too. They cancelled the flight home for our school trip. Got o E 24 hrs later- about how long LV insurance take to answer the phone it seems. Idiots.

[Fiend]

That's balls. Hope they sort it out soon!

[edshakey]

Proper shitty. Are you able to stay warm enough? Gas heating maybe? Not the ideal time of year to be without any form of heat  hope it gets sorted ASAP!

[mrjonathanr]

Thanks for your replies.,We are okay. Mrs is up in arms but we have a wood burning stove, candles etc. A bit like Ynys Ettws with nice carpets.

Worth knowing to avoid LV tho. After 3h59 both calls dropped. Some 5 hrs after contacting them- nothing. It’s not bad service, it’s the absence of service. Don’t buy their products is my advice!

The other factor is it’s the end of term, I have just  spent 6 days running a trip abroad, I’ve got my own bed now, bliss.

[Fultonius]

Meant to be going to Alicante in 4 days....

Had a fight with a
 

NSFW  :

Two finger pocket routes it is for me then....

Luckily (as far as the A&E Nurse could tell), no tendon cuts - but right down to the bone!

[Aussiegav]

Strong on the back 3?   If not, there’s your silver lining.

Sorry to hear about your accident.   Good luck with the healing & the trip.

[Fiend]

Shark stop hacking Fultonius's account!!

(The image didn't load but i'm gonna tuck into some pigs-in-blankets anyway)

[Wellsy]

Oof sounds bad, hope it heals well

[Fultonius]

Open-handing seems possible on day 1 and about 75 degree bend doesn't cause any pain in the cut. Might not all be lost!

Is the pic not working for anyone?  Can't be having you lot miss out on the gore, pigs in blankets or not...

NSFW  :

A few mm either way and I could have severed my collaterals, finger extensor etc...

[mrjonathanr]

Yikes! I bet you’re relieved it’s not worse than it is, judging by the depth of cut. Hope it heals soon.

[Paul B]

Meant to be going to Alicante in 4 days....

The cycling is quite good nearby