[tomtom]

You look like a shark who needed a hug at the end there Simon

I've transcended shouting and swearing to a more desolate place

Maybe take a pet rabbit (substitute for other fluffy cute animal you may like more) to eatswood to cheer you up afterwards?

(Please note that the BMC does not condone live animal sacrifices)

[dave]

The last few sessions at eatswood I have been punting the final moves on the Reverse but took punterdom to a new level today.

Got to the end of the traverse fresh and had my right hand on the ledge and then did the cross through with the left arm to match on the ledge but instead of going over my right arm I somehow managed to punch my right wrist instead and promptly fell off.

  

Got to the same point afterwards but pumped out. Oh well - progress of sorts. 

The best part is I'm sure plenty of folk do eatswood reverse finishing at the start position of the traverse (duh!), i.e. one hand in the crack. So you've already done the problem but didn't notice. Now THAT'S a punter.

[Nibile]

 

[shark]

The best part is I'm sure plenty of folk do eatswood reverse finishing at the start position of the traverse (duh!), i.e. one hand in the crack. So you've already done the problem but didn't notice. Now THAT'S a punter.

Really? In that case I've done it at least 4 times. Sounds like a cop out though.

My long term project is to link back into the Original for a mega pump as I doubt I'd get hardly anything back on the ledge

[dave]

Always seemed a no brainer to me to start the reverse at the point you finish the normal traverse, and finish it at the point you start the traverse, i.e. the definition of a reverse. Linking them together seems like a good idea to kill some time if you're determined not to train power for the Oak.

[nik at work]

I'm fairly sure this has been said before but...
Fuck me you climb slowly!
The cotrast with syke Mike (?) in the cave is startling. I think you have been trying this for a while? I think I'd be hoping to have a more fluid and faster style. Sorry not wanting to pile criticism on top of misery...
Next time

[petejh]

Amazing vid! 

[rich d]

How do you play the vid at full speed?

[geoffg]

As someone of a greater vintage than shark I can tell you that's not slow.

[tomtom]

How do you play the vid at full speed?

Take morphine. Or some speed. Though I can't figure out if being faster or slower would make the film faster or slower. Or give shark some speed. Or watch some lawn bowls.

[shark]

As someone of a greater vintage than shark I can tell you that's not slow.

Quite. The benchmark in slowness from my generation are Keith Sharples and Alan Murray.

[shark]

Always seemed a no brainer to me to start the reverse at the point you finish the normal traverse, and finish it at the point you start the traverse, i.e. the definition of a reverse.

The thing is you start the Original from sitting but you don't end the Reverse by sitting down so the the sidepull is just another hold on the route when doing the Reverse whereas matching the ledge is a more natural finishing point.

Maybe Kristian is right - the Original should start from the ledge.

[moose]

As someone of a greater vintage than shark I can tell you that's not slow.

Quite. The benchmark in slowness from my generation are Keith Sharples and Alan Murray.

And, I am quite possibly the "New Baseline".  A video of me on the problem would resemble an eerie Eastern-European stop-motion animation, perhaps one of a tramp who finds himself in a nightmarish world where he keeps falling sideways. 

My only chance of climbing immortality is if the Olympic bid replaces the speed climbing element with the equivalent of a "slow bicycle race".

[Jaspersharpe]

As someone of a greater vintage than shark I can tell you that's not slow.

Quite. The benchmark in slowness from my generation are Keith Sharples and Alan Murray.

Al Murray climbed on my board once. That was funny.

[rich d]

bit of a first world problem when compared to turkey and nice. turns out my dozy twat of a mate has booked our holiday through lowcostholidays. com which went bust yesterday,  and isn't in abta.  looks like the flights are ok but our hotel hasn't been paid for and we fly a week today.  so at the moment we'll probably have to pay for our rooms again. 

[tomtom]

Paid by credit card? (Possible silver lining?)

[rich d]

Paid by credit card? (Possible silver lining?)

we paid our friends by bank transfer as they paid lowcostholidays as  they did all the booking etc, unfortunately they paid by debit card, but they may be able to claim back through the chargeback scheme and their bank was fairly hopeful thismorning. Still as it's all inclusive and if we have to pay again, I'm going to eat and drink my money back...

[Andy F V2.0]

As someone of a greater vintage than shark I can tell you that's not slow.

Quite. The benchmark in slowness from my generation are Keith Sharples and Alan Murray.

And, I am quite possibly the "New Baseline".  A video of me on the problem would resemble an eerie Eastern-European stop-motion animation, perhaps one of a tramp who finds himself in a nightmarish world where he keeps falling sideways. 

My only chance of climbing immortality is if the Olympic bid replaces the speed climbing element with the equivalent of a "slow bicycle race".

This is true. Mountain ranges get eroded faster than you climb. But you still get up the routes, antigravity slowness?

[moose]

Be poor enough, and even gravity can take pity.... or get bored.

[rich d]

Paid by credit card? (Possible silver lining?)

we paid our friends by bank transfer as they paid lowcostholidays as  they did all the booking etc, unfortunately they paid by debit card, but they may be able to claim back through the chargeback scheme and their bank was fairly hopeful thismorning. Still as it's all inclusive and if we have to pay again, I'm going to eat and drink my money back...

Just been confirmed that my holiday insurance doesn't cover it.

[lagerstarfish]

I got a phone call today from the accommodation that I've booked for 2 weeks in Tenerife (flying on Saturday) to say that they've double booked and the villa is not available - paid for it months ago

not a package holiday and not on credit card (cost was more than my credit card limit)

got some options sorted, but it was looking pretty grim this afternoon

[tomtom]

Fuckers..

[Oldmanmatt]

I'm working toward a level 4 Injury rehab trainer's Dip. Thought I'd short circuit it by 8 months by doing the "Intensive" course at the start of my second year (instead of halfway through).
Day 1
Just been handed 400+ pages of notes in A+P and Nutrition, exams (6 of them) a week Wednesday.
This would be why the lecturer smirked when I said I'd like to do it early...



All posts either sarcastic, tongue-in-cheek or mildly mocking-in-a-friendly-way unless otherwise stated. Looking at you, here, Dense.

[Bonjoy]

Maybe Kristian is right - the Original should start from the ledge.

I think it makes more sense starting at the ledge, especially if people want something closer to a 7C experience. The crack start position is arbitrary and even less logical now the landing has been cleared than it it used to be. Rubble Rouser  starts from the ledge.

[mrjonathanr]

As someone of a greater vintage than shark I can tell you that's not slow.

Quite. The benchmark in slowness from my generation are Keith Sharples and Alan Murray. is Geraldine.

fixed