[SA Chris]

Kate or Stirling?

[andy_e]

[GCW]

 

Is this the French piece of shit or the Italian piece of shit?

[nik at work]

French piece of shit. Maybe I should start thinking about a Volvo...

[GCW]

Yeah, join the Old Man club.

[SA Chris]

Get a Focus. Dull as ditchwater (the average UK variety, not the cool LA stuff), common as muck, but reliable and easy to service and maintain. Like a Volvo with no personality.

[galpinos]

Like a Volvo with no personality.

Drives better than a volvo though.

[SA Chris]

I can only compare to the old Volvo 240 I had so will have to agree.

[gcarmichael]

Footage from this evening, bit of a ridiculous reaction at the end...

[Jaspersharpe]

Completely understandable reaction. I've watched the end about six times and still can't work out what actually happened! You did the move and just stepped off....

 

[tomtom]

Good bemused wandering. I tend to a. stare at the rock in complete disbelief. b. swear repeatedly, incoherantly/etc..

My favourite was after grasping- yet deciding for some reason completeley beyond me to ungrasp the top of Deliverance (I've still not got as close!).

This was at the same time as a coached climbing trip from the Works was swarming all over the boulder, and my repeated bellowing of 'CUUUUNNNNNT' turned a few heads and gained a few evil stares.

[andy_e]

Ouch! That's like having both feet on top of the problem yet somehow slipping off the top out (which I've done)...

[gcarmichael]

Even closer this evening, can't believe i fell off here! 

[Bonjoy]

I think a fall or two right at the end are obligatory on Staminaband. Pretty sure I came off the same move. Dropping that right foot off is far from piss when you’re boxed.

[Jaspersharpe]

Don't say that! It'll get in his head....

I always used to fall off the move down off the glassy sika pinchy thing (1.10 on George's vid). If I got past there I did it. Mind you, it's completely different now.

[SA Chris]

Different in so far as if you can do 4 moves on it you are happy?

[Three Nine]

I cant drop my right foot down at all; its the only move i cant do. I can get my right hand down ok, but then as soon as right foot comes off I fall 

[Jaspersharpe]

Different in so far as if you can do 4 moves on it you are happy?

If I could walk at the moment I'd be happy but yes, something like that........ What I meant was that the footholds have changed so much that some of the moves that used to be easy are hard and vice versa.

[Bonjoy]

 
This is true. The middle bit used to be the crux and was on terrible footholds. Which goes a long way to explaining why PB used to get 7c+ (as did SB!).

[Baldy]

NNFN!

Last day in Rocklands today, and I had been sessioning Caroline pretty hard.

I was going to put in two big days yesterday and today so I could do it.

Yesterday I got to the final crimp, a position I have never fallen from. And then fell from there. 

I wouldnt have been too pissed, but I also got the deepest split I have ever had. Deep and wide on the right ring finger..

9 days left, hopefully the skin can heal and I can send!

[SA Chris]

Torrential rain yesterday as soon as i stepped out of office. 20 min walk to car saw most torrential rain I've ever seen up here, softshell soaked though in 5 mins. Stopped and sun came out as soon as I got to car! Everything soaked, and got to work today and laptop dead in spite of optimistic leaving out to dry overnight (was in my backpack) so now trying to make do with a crappy loaner with loads of stuff i normally rely on not working.

[Dolly]

So fucking cunting Ryanair have cancelled our flight out to Italy at the end of October.
We've booked the return flight and the hotel for the 5 of us and my yearly week in the Italian October sun pretending to be a real roadie. They say we can book an alternative to another airport subject to availability.
Customer service doesn't open until 10 tomorrow when I will be giving them the full extent of my love

[Nibile]

Went to the project yesterday, pulled on and felt really strong. While I was enjoying the feeling of dominating the move, the left hand starting hold, a whide pinch, exploded in a thousand pieces...
The sitter is still doable but now I'll have to use a foothold as the left hand starting hold. That was hard for me already, really didn't need it to be harder! Next time!

[Jaspersharpe]

It's harder but still doable? This should be in YYFY Lore! 

[Nibile]

It's harder but still doable? This should be in YYFY Lore! 

Ahah, I was about to post it there!!!
It will be there when I do it.