[SA Chris]

Is that outdoors? WTF where they thinking?

[uptown]

Is that outdoors? WTF where they thinking?

Yep. Kilnsey.
The justification was that the hold was flexing and it's shared with an existing route. You can do the existing route with the hold as a pinch or an edge for your right-hand, whilst my project took the edge with my left-hand. The gluer doesn't use the edge on their sequence and is trying the existing line so 'reinforced' the pinch by covering the edge with glue, therefore making the second crux to my project impossible.
I think the intentions were good yet it highlights a lesson to be learnt for potential gluers : a good repair shouldn't alter the characteristics of that area of rock, you don't need loads of glue for it to work. Also just because you don't use a certain hold doesn't mean others don't. 

[SA Chris]

Sounds like a bit of brain power could have been applied.

Can you get a battery powered dremel to tidy it up?

[chris_j_s]

 

Just finished sticking 2 of my fingers back together after chopping about 3/4 of the way through both of them! Guess I'll just have to get good at climbing on the back 2 on my left hand!

[erm, sam]

OUCH!

Axe+woodburning stove by any chance?

On the plus side it does sound like a great training opportunity...

[Dolly]

Just finished sticking 2 of my fingers back together after chopping about 3/4 of the way through both of them! Guess I'll just have to get good at climbing on the back 2 on my left hand!

Hard luck mate. Have been there and know how it feels.

Horrible accidents can happen very easily cant they ? What's the prognosis from the docs ?
It might seem a long way back but youll get there

[chris_j_s]

No, luckily not the axe/woodburning stove combo! That would have been a lot worse!

I have a vague recollection of your posts Dolly and it isn't a patch on your accident!

This was done using a stanley knife with a fresh blade whilst cutting plasterboard. Was literally making the last cut before all the cutting was finished and had been very conscious of not chopping fingers but obviously just had a lapse in concentration at a very poor time!

Have cut through index and middle fingers about 1.5-2cm from the finger tips and, like I mentioned, about 3/4 of the way through both of them.

Didn't go to the docs as they seemed to hold together quite well after half an hour of pressure (during which I randomly made a cup of tea - don't people do odd things whilst in stressful situations!!).

They have now been superglued which seems to be holding them together a treat although it still looks pretty shocking at the moment and hurts like a bastard...

[Jaspersharpe]

 

Might be idea to get them looked at anyway!

[Dolly]

Agree - its worth taking the time to get a medical opinion - you want to make sure they knit properly

[ben]

you cut 3/4 way through 2 fingers and you're not going to the quack?!  hardcore..   

[JamieG]

I would definitely go to see the doctor.

A friend of a friend had a similar injury, but probably not as deep a cut as your sounds, and tried to just bandage it up. After a few days the tip started to go black and smell weird so he went to A and E. They said, if he'd left it any longer he'd have lost the tip of his finger due to the infection spreading.

Don't mean to get all doomsday on you, but probably not worth the risk. Good luck.

[galpinos]

Have cut through index and middle fingers about 1.5-2cm from the finger tips and, like I mentioned, about 3/4 of the way through both of them.

Didn't go to the docs as they seemed to hold together quite well after half an hour of pressure

WTF! you are mental. Have you cut throught the bone?

Ditto the doctor advice. It's not worth losing the use of two fingers for.

[chris_j_s]

WTF! you are mental. Have you cut throught the bone?

Thanks all for your concern

I don't know how but no, I don't seem to have gone through the bone! The cut took something of a diagonal line but it is just 1mm or so away from my finger nail on one side.

It honestly has stuck back in very neat fashion and despite being quite numb to start with feeling has returned to both fingertips. They are a little swollen but not an unhealthy colour. Luckily my mrs is a vet and insisted on it being cleaned up properly to avoid infection.

Bizarrely I'm a little surprised at everyones reaction as going to A&E seemed excessive - my main concern was that I'd planned to go climbing that afternoon and now couldn't, but tales of fingers going black have worried me to the extent that maybe I will go and see what my GP thinks just in case!

[boulderingbacon]

first thing i was ever taught as an apprentice was if you cut yourself do not get blood on the job, then finish the job, then go to the hospital. had to do this when i cut through the top of my hand with a jack saw. by the time had drove my self there the steering wheel was covered in blood. funny thing was once i was stitched up they said i wasn't allowed to drive.

[fatdoc]

WTF! you are mental. Have you cut throught the bone?

Thanks all for your concern

I don't know how but no, I don't seem to have gone through the bone! The cut took something of a diagonal line but it is just 1mm or so away from my finger nail on one side.

It honestly has stuck back in very neat fashion and despite being quite numb to start with feeling has returned to both fingertips. They are a little swollen but not an unhealthy colour. Luckily my mrs is a vet and insisted on it being cleaned up properly to avoid infection.

Bizarrely I'm a little surprised at everyones reaction as going to A&E seemed excessive - my main concern was that I'd planned to go climbing that afternoon and now couldn't, but tales of fingers going black have worried me to the extent that maybe I will go and see what my GP thinks just in case!

tendons... you are a climber.... you NEED to see an A&E dr to get them assessed, soon.

[uptown]

Sounds like a bit of brain power could have been applied.

Can you get a battery powered dremel to tidy it up?

I went back yesterday and two taps with a toffee hammer and wood chisel got shot of the glue fillet. No change to the hold underneath so the project is still on. Disheartening to see that 'someone' has been trying the line though since my last visit - tick marks all over the holds past the hangerless bolt. Do people have no scruples? [sigh]


Hope the fingers mend ok Chris.

[Jaspersharpe]

Time to get the lip balm out uptown! 

[TobyD]

[/quote] Disheartening to see that 'someone' has been trying the line though since my last visit - tick marks all over the holds past the hangerless bolt. Do people have no scruples? [sigh]
[/quote]

well, i wonder who that might have been eh? 

[TobyD]

NNFN
 
just got really important dissertation marks through. Not good news. 

[duncan]

just got really important dissertation marks through. Not good news.

Frustrating when input ≠ output (as assessed).     

Does this influence the overall degree mark?  If it is any consolation, the boss of a major London hospital physio. department recently told me "of course we don't look at the degree grade - we go on personal statement and interview". 

[TobyD]

just got really important dissertation marks through. Not good news.

 
Does this influence the overall degree mark?  If it is any consolation, the boss of a major London hospital physio. department recently told me "of course we don't look at the degree grade - we go on personal statement and interview". 

yes..... but that is reassuring, thanks duncan!

[Muenchener]

<self-pity>
Feeling cursed at the moment.

Living near the Alps means: lots of super-inspiring routes to look at, plan and aspire to. Living near the Alps with job & family means: planning climbing weekends with babysitting arrangements long in advance, then watching with mounting dread as the dreamed-of weekend approaches and the weather forecast gets steadily worse and worse.

Case in point: Frau M's planned first multipitch weekend last summer. Babysitter arranged long in advance. Weekend arrives: raining, and Frau M has a cold. We finally drag ourselves out on an improving forecast Sunday afternoon for four pitches of pure mediocrity at Nassereith, firmly crossing that crag off the list of places to bother with ever again.

Case in point (2): had planned to go to Oberreintal tomorrow for four days with my Wednesday night wall group from the German Alpine Club. Supposed to be superb Alpine semi-trad up to about ten pitches on immaculate rock with loads of classics in my 6a-ish target range. Weather forecast is heavy rain & thunderstorms until Sunday. Rest of group now plans to drive down to Ticino where weather should be better, which would be ok except that I too now have a heavy cold & am not sure if I feel up to a long journey.

Case in point (3): first meet-up last Sunday at the wall with another Brit expat whom I met via ukc. He turns out to be a nice guy and a much better climber than me - 7b/c or so at the wall - and is enthusiastic for Alpine mutlipitch. Last route of the evening, he dislocates his shoulder trying a 7c. Oh well, I have a couple of long UIAA 3-ish ridge traverses on my to-do list that might be suitable rehab for him.
</self-pity>

[andy popp]

just got really important dissertation marks through. Not good news.

Frustrating when input ≠ output (as assessed).     

Does this influence the overall degree mark?  If it is any consolation, the boss of a major London hospital physio. department recently told me "of course we don't look at the degree grade - we go on personal statement and interview".

In most cases (e.g. almost all postgrad studies) having already taken degree classification into account as a basic qualifying criterium. Plus side, its very hard nowadays for one weak module (even a dissertation) to be make and break for the whole degree.

[RopeBoy]

NNFN

Trip to Font at half term;
Our share of gite (family holiday) - £200
Chunnel ticket                              - £170
Petrol there and back                   - £150 ish
Spending money for family           - £500

Twatting ankle on first day of week long trip - priceless! 

[sidewinder]

Physio at cliffhanger confirmed my suspicions and it looks like I am/have joined the UKB/DC club.