[GCW]

With foot locks?   

[andy_e]

No, without, and without matching in the roof either, as per Johnny G.

[nik at work]

Obviously lanking it then Emo.

[Richie Crouch]

Nah Andi is a beast on form ready to crush ice cool granite in a few weeks! 

[andy_e]

Another NNFN from today- I failed to link Zippy's Traverse although I had all the moves wired- or so I thought- but then found much better beta at the end of the day when I was spanked and couldn't do it. Ah well, next time, given better conditions!

[tomtom]

Rimcheese.

Drove 1 1/4 hours to Almscliff to discover its the only place in Yorkshire that was raining (well in my journey anyway). Then was torn between a dank midgy dogshitty Wetherby and a dank midgy Caley decided to give the latter a blast as it wasnt raining over that side of the valley.

Caley was dank and midgey but exposed faces near the sugarloaf were dry enough. No cars on the road so the place to myself I thought... ah no, it was the evening that Bramley youth club were having their night walk... I rapidly tired of explaining what I was doing to a group of youths (who were OK to be fair - despite seeming to think I had a big bag of coke instead of chalk..) went up and down the roof of the world a couple of times (to chants of monkey boy - sigh) then retreated to the quiet near the sugar loaf (the supervisors were there but had gone elsewhere after having a can and a fag...). Attempted to slither up the pinch.. made friends with a few thousand midges and went home.

Bah humbug 

[slackline]

Sounds like a classic evening 

Should have come to Stanage, t'was minty fresh and no midges 

[Jaspersharpe]

Gotta keep an eye out for twats rolling their cars round that way though.

[DaveC]

Gotta keep an eye out for twats rolling their cars round that way though.

 

[Stabbsy]

Drove 1 1/4 hours to Almscliff to discover its the only place in Yorkshire that was raining (well in my journey anyway). Then was torn between a dank midgy dogshitty Wetherby and a dank midgy Caley decided to give the latter a blast as it wasnt raining over that side of the valley.

Should have persevered with Almscliff. It went from piss wet through to bone dry in about half an hour and turned into a lovely evening. However, my pad now stinks of stagnant water.

[tomtom]

Drove 1 1/4 hours to Almscliff to discover its the only place in Yorkshire that was raining (well in my journey anyway). Then was torn between a dank midgy dogshitty Wetherby and a dank midgy Caley decided to give the latter a blast as it wasnt raining over that side of the valley.

Should have persevered with Almscliff. It went from piss wet through to bone dry in about half an hour and turned into a lovely evening. However, my pad now stinks of stagnant water.

Yup  Thought that as I drove past it on the way home... such is life. Though the other week I got fed up of messing around under the virgin boulder waiting for it to stop/dry and figured it might be the same...
Hows it looking today? forecast looks turd..

[slackline]

Gotta keep an eye out for twats rolling their cars round that way though.

Yeah, yeah 

[Stabbsy]

Drove 1 1/4 hours to Almscliff to discover its the only place in Yorkshire that was raining (well in my journey anyway). Then was torn between a dank midgy dogshitty Wetherby and a dank midgy Caley decided to give the latter a blast as it wasnt raining over that side of the valley.

Should have persevered with Almscliff. It went from piss wet through to bone dry in about half an hour and turned into a lovely evening. However, my pad now stinks of stagnant water.

Yup  Thought that as I drove past it on the way home... such is life. Though the other week I got fed up of messing around under the virgin boulder waiting for it to stop/dry and figured it might be the same...
Hows it looking today? forecast looks turd..

The Virgin boulder was getting a bit crowded for the first half hour last night and the Virgin traverse was never much good as a warm-up! Keeps raining on and off in York today, but the showers are so patchy that you might get lucky.

[Andy F]

On a chuffing theme, Grooved Arete yesterday:
First go - didn't get the sidepull at the top of the groove right.
Second go -got the first pinch and then pinged. Annoyed I got back on quickly where I'd stopped and went to the belay. Progress - two overlapping halves.
Third go - Right foot wasn't quite right so came of higher pinch. Reworked the move, decided to put foot on higher hold next go
Fourth go - feeling strong. Cruise upto the pinches again. Put right foot on higherhold, reach for jug and foot pops. Ahhhggghhhh.
Fifth go - Cruise upto the pinches, put right foot on lower hold. slap for jug but go above it, my fingers hit blank rock. Agggggghhhhhhhh.
Sixth go - feeling tired, get to the top of the groove , reach for the pinch and come off. Shattered

I feel completely broken, physically and mentally 

[Jaspersharpe]

You'll piss it next go.

[nik at work]

Have a wad for your (mighty impressive) efforts (and the excellent sequence suggestions). Next time (for you, not me, sounds like I've got another four years to go yet....)

[Andy F]

Cheer Nik, was good to meet you. I just hope the enforced (family holiday) lay-off doesn't do too much to reduce the fitness.

[Fultonius]

Nooooooooo! My longest peroid of relatively injury free climbing came to an end last night.

Seven months with only very mild tweaks here and there, climbing well, projects getting crushed.

Noooooooo.

Was at a local sport crag (Dunglas, loose and a bit rubbish) and had just done a 7a on 1st redpoint and then decided to try the 7b direct version. First go it felt desperate, but I managed to work out a sequence that made the most of the bad holds with lots of changes in body position. Anway, I digress.  So, on the 1st RP I got though the bouldery section to the rest where it joins the 7a. Just one hard pull on a sick, sharp crimp evil sharp finger wrecking crossly piece of horrible basalt and then crusie to the top.

At the time I heard the dreaded pop-crunch sound but it didn't hurt and a genuinely though it was the rock snapping, not my finger. How wrong could I be!

So, in the shower this morning and I squeeze the shower gel (at this point I still didn't know it was trashed) and ouch, ah, oh no....what's that, a fucked A4 you say...


Baws!

[GCW]

A4?

Welcome to the Pulley club.  Have a look at this and this, which is becoming a diary of pulley rehab. 

[SA Chris]

Bummer Ali. Bust out the bike.

[Fultonius]

A4?

Welcome to the Pulley club. 

I've had a few "tweaky" pulleys before, but this is the first one that's properly crunched! At least this way I know what it is and what to do.

Aye chris, that's the plan. Might buy a new DH bike.....

[BB]

Do it. DH is the perfect way to ensure your fingers mend.

[Fultonius]

So, Mr GCW,

How well recovered do you feel now, 3 months down the line?

Like I say, I heard a crunch but it wasn't sore at the time. This morning it was noticably sore to touch (and squeezing a bottle of showergel hurt) but there is no swelling and it doesn't hurt just sitting about doing nothing. I'm going to try and avoid testing, prodding and poking it - maybe 1 or 2 squeezes a day to check the tenderness (as in, squeezing my bad finger witha good finger. Not testing it by using it)

1 week of doing absolutely nothing that could strain it. Then re-assess.

That's the plan.

[Fultonius]

Do it. DH is the perfect way to ensure your fingers mend.

Aye, but I'll probably go and hurt something else ;-)

How much can a well looked after 2nd hand DH be had for these days?

[BB]

Nothing if you can get Fatdoc to bequeath his to you.