NNFN!!!! (Read 891455 times)

Fiend · May 12, 2009, 10:02:33 pm

Quote from: Drew on May 12, 2009, 07:46:40 pm

Quote from: Sloper on May 12, 2009, 07:39:47 pm
Quote from: Jim on May 12, 2009, 07:04:32 pm
I also think the nose is 7a+, especially when problems like gorilla, early doors and trackside get 7a. harder than all those for me.

I agree.

Really? I reckon Trackside is piss, as is The Nose, but GW and ED are nails. A Power Endurance thing perchance?

There is definitely some sort of lank - weakness - inability to grade correlation going on somewhere, but I have no idea where Jim's gut or nai's shortyz skillz factor into it....

Sloper · May 12, 2009, 10:06:21 pm

ED is not really power endurance, more technique and the ability to deal with well, er slopers (not that people would accept more than one Sloper)

Houdini · May 12, 2009, 11:10:52 pm

Everything on that boulder is pure beginners material, excluding that hellish one-move wonder slab thing up the center of the front face.

Jaspersharpe · May 13, 2009, 08:27:08 am

Everything on that boulder is dogshit morelike. Why GW is mentioned as some sort of classic problem I have no idea. Lagers showed me this scummy pit with a sandy chossbag snappy pile of shit traverse on horrible holds and I thought he was taking the piss at first. I fell off a couple of times showing zero enthusiasm to actually try to climb the thing and left, vowing never to return. Trackside and in particular The Nose on the other hand are excellent problems.

Fiend · May 13, 2009, 08:58:12 am

Gorilla Warfare is ace. It's not the most inspiring setting (especially when there are fucking hordes of puerile tickers there), but it is a great problem, powerful, sustained, yet reasonable, with a bit of committment required too, plus a fairly good line of weakness. Good to have power bouldering at that sort of middling standard on the grit too.

Jaspersharpe · May 13, 2009, 10:41:49 am

Or in other words.....dogshit.

To each their own.

Fiend · May 13, 2009, 10:48:02 am

....says the Peak limestone climber

Jaspersharpe · May 13, 2009, 11:52:54 am

Yes, says the Peak limestone climber. In fact this is my point entirely. Gritstone is (rightly) famous for top quality bouldering and then this bag of shit is held up as an example of one of the best problems. Then people have the cheek to slag the quality of the lime! What a joke.

lol

Johnny Brown · May 13, 2009, 12:00:41 pm

Has anyone held this up as one of the best problems on grit? Have they fuck.

Crap it may be, but if you've done anything other than urinate at Minus ten you need to go find a mirror and take a good long look at yourself.

Jaspersharpe · May 13, 2009, 12:03:36 pm

Glad you agree JB.

cofe · May 13, 2009, 12:09:23 pm

I'd say GW is a good grit prob, as is ED. those slopers are real nice, and I like the topouts. There's a lot shitter grit probs out there. So there.

Johnny Brown · May 13, 2009, 12:19:03 pm

I'm no fan of traverses, but Hurricane is a great move. The block deserves to exist just for that. Plus the end of Early Doors makes a great up problem, and the aretes behind are great easy highballs. We're hardly talking Tom's roof here are we?

Scouse D · May 13, 2009, 12:20:21 pm

I like GW too. Nice holds; powerful; longer than most problems; a top out (unlike most on limestone) and ultimately very satisfying.
Early Doors is also a fantastic problem.
Hurricane is also a fantastic problem.

cofe · May 13, 2009, 12:21:10 pm

and who could forget Humpin'...

I imagine Hurricance is a great prob too...

Jaspersharpe · May 13, 2009, 12:27:08 pm

Bunch of gays. You can keep your pit.

cofe · May 13, 2009, 12:42:46 pm

i just hope you've learnt your lesson.

Fiend · May 13, 2009, 12:46:56 pm

Jasper just got owned

P.S. I've gone for a dump at Minus Ten does that count??

Jaspersharpe · May 13, 2009, 12:50:30 pm

Quote from: cofe on May 13, 2009, 12:42:46 pm

i just hope you've learnt your lesson.

Indeed I have.

That some people have no taste.

Although I knew that already.

cofe · May 13, 2009, 12:55:43 pm

slackline · May 22, 2009, 09:18:09 am

NNFN!!! Why did I move left at the top of trying to lead Right Unconquerable for the first time last night and ignore the shouts of "Its easier on the right"

Still, happy to have led it and will be going back to do it cleanly, although next time I'll warm up on something else first instead of jumping straight on it

Fiend · May 22, 2009, 10:02:53 am

It's best direct shurely??

Or better and easier, if you can jam, tackled by the other crack a few metres left

slackline · May 22, 2009, 10:13:31 am

Direct if you're in the right place to start with! Didn't want to scuttle left into the wide crack, but hadn't gone far enough right to be in the correct place.

Friend led Left afterwards, which I thought was easier than Righ. Then did a weird route called Vogon which goes up Monday Blue (the arete on the right), then traverses across the break at 2/3rds height to finish up Little Unconquerable. The reason for the name only dawned on me this morning (and its very apt

). Namenlos to warm down which was nice, so a good evening all in all really, just annoying I didn't get Right clean.

Oh yeah, having just topped out Left heard a "Help!" from a german guy who was stuck at the top of Right, went round and he was plastered to the top and wanted pulling over. Asked him where his last piece of gear was, but couldn't get a clear answer so helped him out. Should have let him take the fall though as he had a cam in the break under the top.

Johnny Brown · May 22, 2009, 10:44:47 am

I scuttled left into the wide crack the first time I did it. Seemed like the logical exit at the time, what with wilting arms an' all. And I stand by my tick.

Namenlos is great isn't it. I really like Monday Blue too, I've never understood why the Little Unc has got 'a reputation' though.

SA Chris · May 22, 2009, 11:05:01 am

Quote from: slack---line on May 22, 2009, 10:13:31 am

Then did a weird route called Vogon which goes up Monday Blue (the arete on the right), then traverses across the break at 2/3rds height to finish up Little Unconquerable. The reason for the name only dawned on me this morning (and its very apt ).

Pray tell?

slackline · May 22, 2009, 11:19:02 am

Quote from: SA Chris on May 22, 2009, 11:05:01 am

Quote from: slack---line on May 22, 2009, 10:13:31 am
Then did a weird route called Vogon which goes up Monday Blue (the arete on the right), then traverses across the break at 2/3rds height to finish up Little Unconquerable. The reason for the name only dawned on me this morning (and its very apt ).

Pray tell?

Vogons are the aliens in Hitchikers Guide to the Galaxy that plough through the middle of solar systems to make the Intergalactic Highway (at least in the first book thats what they're doing).

If you climbed this route on a weekend day you'd be pissing off anyone who wanted to do Left or Right Unconquerable (both *** classics) and also Monday Blue and Little Unconquerable.

Which all in all I thought was therefore quite an appropriate name.