[GCW]

Dunno.  You tell us, beastiality student perv 

[c3po]

Checkout the little one finger pull up, surely he should have popped an A2 by now!

[LucyB]

Back on topic:

NNFN! We're not going to melloblocco cos the weather looks pants. It would've been an expensive trip just to sit in a bar with a bored baby looking at the rain.

 

[Sloper]

Listening to Percy about how much he'd be making if the rain was in the Peak......

[tommytwotone]

NNFN - just had another frustrating session on Breakfast this afternoon.

Have returned home with my tail between my legs, and only scuffed up skin to show for it. DAMMMMMIT!!

[nai]

I found  that frustrating when I did it too, pretty tricky to find a sequence that works.

I think I can remember the moves though, just shout if you'd like beta.

[Fiend]

It's quite a solid V5. I found the trick was to have good conditions, bear down on the arete, and be very careful slowly sliding the heel-toe out.

[moose]

I found that udging up into a crossed-hands arrangement on the arete helped me resist the barn-door when I released the heel-toe: RH on lowest sidepull, LH on highest (pinching thumb around arete). 

If that helps, don't then do what I did: celebrate by falling from a clearly damp 'The Nose' (6 months later and still got Golfer's Elbow).

[tommytwotone]

It's quite a solid V5. I found the trick was to have good conditions, bear down on the arete, and be very careful slowly sliding the heel-toe out.

Cheers - I think that if I'm being honest it might be ability rather than beta on this one!

I was trying the beta I'd been given in a thread I started ages ago: RF heel-toe, RH bear down on small crimp / bump LF up the ramp thing to get LH on the good crimp round the arete and then spin off releasing the heel-toe.

I then resorted to trying a crazy method that seemed to have promise, heel-toe as before but work RH onto the good crimp round the arete (left pinching the arete)...could get the heel-toe out in control and actually get my LF round the arete, but then didn't have anywhere to put my LH!

Think I'd have been better off accepting Dobbin's call and going to Rubicon instead...

[nai]

I then resorted to trying a crazy method that seemed to have promise, heel-toe as before but work RH onto the good crimp round the arete (left pinching the arete)...could get the heel-toe out in control and actually get my LF round the arete, but then didn't have anywhere to put my LH!

This is what I did, then from LF around the arete, cross LH over to the top hold as Moose suggests, bring RF onto one of the good holds on the face, RH to somewhere around the LH, then pop.

It's quite a solid V5. I found the trick was to have good conditions, bear down on the arete, and be very careful slowly sliding the heel-toe out.

I thought it worth 7a, harder than The Nose for me.

[tommytwotone]

I then resorted to trying a crazy method that seemed to have promise, heel-toe as before but work RH onto the good crimp round the arete (left pinching the arete)...could get the heel-toe out in control and actually get my LF round the arete, but then didn't have anywhere to put my LH!

This is what I did, then from LF around the arete, cross LH over to the top hold as Moose suggests, bring RF onto one of the good holds on the face, RH to somewhere around the LH, then pop.

It's quite a solid V5. I found the trick was to have good conditions, bear down on the arete, and be very careful slowly sliding the heel-toe out.

I thought it worth 7a, harder than The Nose for me.

I think this is the beta that's gonna work best for me - if we get a cool / not humid evening I reckon I'll head back out and get on it again. I've only got a week and a bit until I'm no longer a Sheffield resident, so I've got to knock it off before then!

[Fiend]

Rinsing Easterlies tonight dude I hope you were out.

It's two grades easier than The Nose for the more "compact" gentlemen.

[tommytwotone]

Rinsing Easterlies tonight dude I hope you were out.

Sadly not - spent the day at The Roaches getting hammered by said easterlies at the top of routes!

On the plus side, I did Valkyrie - found the second pitch a bit weird / (h)airy but what a quality route! 

[nai]

It's two grades easier than The Nose for the more "compact" gentlemen.

One of us must be doing something wrong and if you think The Nose is 7a+ it must be you (not sure if I'm supposed to insert a smiley of some kind here to indicate this is a light-hearted gesture not intended to cause offence).  You must need the right beta, try this:

[butters]

It's two grades easier than The Nose for the more "compact" gentlemen.

One of us must be doing something wrong and if you think The Nose is 7a+ it must be you (not sure if I'm supposed to insert a smiley of some kind here to indicate this is a light-hearted gesture not intended to cause offence).  You must need the right beta, try this:

I seem to remember that Fiend had extensive (self produced) beta produced over many visits for The Nose and that it felt harder than the given grade due to it being (for someone of Fiends stature) a height dependant problem as hinted at by the "more compact gentleman" reference.

bluebrad 

[Fiend]

Nai, correct, my method was harder than that, I did see that video on the Nose thread already. I will grant you that assuming that beta works for all shorties, then The Nose will merely be a hard V6, and Breakfast a middling V5, so not two grades difference.

Another cool easterly tonight before the rain comes in tomorrow, get to it! The trick with Breakfast is about dragging the right foot out - don't just release it but scrape it along the rock to stop the swing.

[Jaspersharpe]

So close to a puntering there Fiend. This is The Peak, keep your filthy V grades to yourself.

[Jim]

I also think the nose is 7a+, especially when problems like gorilla, early doors and trackside get 7a. harder than all those for me.

[abarro81]

Well I think breakfast's harder than the nose. So there. (For reference, I lank both of them)

[Jim]

anyway, more NNFN
Lost my best sunglasses the other day, think they fell out my bag when getting off the plane.
Also 10 days in the sun doing nothing and my fingers hurt just as much as they did before
NNFN all round

[Sloper]

I also think the nose is 7a+, especially when problems like gorilla, early doors and trackside get 7a. harder than all those for me.

I agree.

[Drew]

I also think the nose is 7a+, especially when problems like gorilla, early doors and trackside get 7a. harder than all those for me.

I agree.

Really? I reckon Trackside is piss, as is The Nose, but GW and ED are nails. A Power Endurance thing perchance?

[tommytwotone]

Another session, more lost skin but no result...arse. On one attempt I actually got the upper crimps in my hands with heel round the arete, but then dropped it.

Think I might have to write this one off as one I'm not going to manage. Yet.

[Drew]

I think it was Nai who suggested a sequence very similar to mine: Once stood up with RH on good crimp, release RF from Heel-Toe, but move it left, and get a good Toe Hook in the same break, cross LH over RH to pinch arete, bump RH into crimp on arete right beside LH, RF on starting handhold, slap top with RH.

One trick I've learned though, is when the RH is on the good crimp, I lean over and around the arete, which allows me to move my RF easily, to wherever I want.

Dunno if this will help, or confuse, but I thought I'd add it anyway.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Seeing as the nose is todays hot topic thought I'd share my NFNNNFN (No Fucking Nose No No Fucking NO) moment...
Went up and had a go yesterday as I really should have done this by now and pissed what I thought was the hard bit, went a bit too far left at the top and promptly ran out of holds leaving me firmly ensconsed on the mat with a sore ankle and groin (the groin was due to spring voyage and sone deicidedly bunched upness getting the slope and rail thing - not so much as a nnfn that,  more an "ouch but that might actually go in the cold" - O.B.T.M.A.G.I.T.C!). Arse!