[OllyRyan]

Recently I've started to notice just how weak my legs really are, and now I'm thinking about it more whilst climbing I reckon it's affecting me a lot more than I'd realised before.

I've been trying to build them up recently with the eventual aim of being able to do a pistol as that seems to be the most extreme leg movement used whilst climbing. I'm not having much joy and can barely do the 'Method two - single leg step-ups' on a 1 foot box as shown on http://www.beastskills.com/Pistol.htm

What are peoples opinions/experiences on optimum leg strength? Can most climbers do a full piston? and can anyone suggest any good exercises to train my legs up?!

Sorry if this has come up before i've tried  on this site but couldn't find much...

[Johnny B Badd]

This seems identical to what was once known in Martial Arts circles as 'The Stork'. Trust the Yanks to re-invent it with some Wild-West, Shoot 'em up terminology! 

I've always found this easy (as in banging out reps, type easy). However, because its a forward facing stance, the muscles involved aren't really related to movement on rock. Deep step-ups, say rockovers are sideways movements with emphasis on the hip-flexors. Sods law, cause I'm weak as a baby on slabby stuff.

Pointless exercise m8, IMHO.

[Paul B]

However, because its a forward facing stance, the muscles involved aren't really related to movement on rock.

I can't comment on whether or not its of any use, my legs look like that of a sparrow but I disagree with that statement, its a compound movement, essentially a one legged squat, its GOT to be hitting muscles used when climbing:

Muscles

Target

    * Quadriceps

Synergists

    * Gluteus Maximus
    * Adductor Magnus
    * Soleus

Dynamic Stabilizers

    * Hamstrings
    * Gastrocnemius

Stabilizers

    * Erector Spinae
    * Gluteus Medius
    * Gluteus Minimus

[chillax]

I can't comment on that particular exercise, but in my experience that kind of leg strength is only ever needed for high-stepping and rockover action on nasty hard slabs (easy stuff tends to have holds). good footwork and body tension would seem to be the more desirable traits, especially on steeper stuff.

[duncan]

I think this would be a pretty good exercise for people who felt they had weakness on high rock-overs.  As Paul says, it mainly targets the hip and knee extensors.  Storking with the hip rotated externally - frogging - would increase the specificity of the exercise.  Work up to this, I take no responsibility for torn knee menisci!

Unlikely to be a top training priority for most people though. 

[slackline]

Leg strength/flexibility seems to have quite useful to one Pete Whittaker...

Warm Love...



Dynamics of Change...

[richdraws]

Though he is pulling not pressing. I wonder what exercise you could do to strengthen those hamstrings? 

[Houdini]

Just go running.  No need to get too technical.

[Serpico]

Though he is pulling not pressing. I wonder what exercise you could do to strengthen those hamstrings?  

This is what Athletik Spesifik (late of this parish) recommends:
http://www.athletikspesifik.com/climbing-circuit.html

[OllyRyan]

Just go running.  No need to get too technical.

Did start running but i've got dodgy ankles so try to avoid it, have just bought a turbo trainer so hoping that will have a positive benefit.

This is what Athletik Spesifik (late of this parish) recommends:
http://www.athletikspesifik.com/climbing-circuit.html

Cheers for the link looks like a good circuit to work on.

I went to the wall last night and tried to concentrate on my legs on the slabs, it was depressing!! With my foot at knee height on a huge hold I couldn't push up without a whole lot of hauling with my arms. By the sounds of it i've just got weak girly legs and just need to man up more...

[tomtom]

Recently I've started to notice just how weak my legs really are, and now I'm thinking about it more whilst climbing I reckon it's affecting me a lot more than I'd realised before.

I've been trying to build them up recently with the eventual aim of being able to do a pistol as that seems to be the most extreme leg movement used whilst climbing. I'm not having much joy and can barely do the 'Method two - single leg step-ups' on a 1 foot box as shown on http://www.beastskills.com/Pistol.htm

I'm tall with really long legs which = long levers. I cannot stand up on one leg when fully compressed. I spent a while doing these pistol exercises - in an open doorway was the best place, where you could grip the frame and give yourself a little boost when needed. It used to kill the muscles on top of my thighs just above the knees. After ten I could barely walk - as in legs collapse!
I've stopped the exercises now, but they defo made a difference. Its another one of those tall person disadvantages IMHO :-)
T

[OllyRyan]

Its another one of those tall person disadvantages IMHO :-)
[/quote]

Wouldn't consider myself to be tall (5ft 11) but also never considered that I had weak legs either! Very frustrating at the moment as I seem to constantly be finding situations were i'm not strong enough to straighten my leg. Hoping though that once I get a bit more strength I should notice some rapid improvement, specifically on sport routes.

[tomtom]

Its another one of those tall person disadvantages IMHO :-)

Wouldn't consider myself to be tall (5ft 11) but also never considered that I had weak legs either! Very frustrating at the moment as I seem to constantly be finding situations were i'm not strong enough to straighten my leg. Hoping though that once I get a bit more strength I should notice some rapid improvement, specifically on sport routes.
[/quote]

Olly, for me not being able to straighen the legs from fully closed has only ever really been a disadvantage on slab routes - you know the old stand up on a smear with a fingertip round a pebble gritstone job - where its all down to that one leg with the hand just for balance. On most sport/more vertical routes theres nearly always another way to do it!
Try just doing squats (or wahtever theyre called) with both legs - then with a laden backpack.. or the pistol things - but use the doorframe it really helps and makes it feel alot more controlled!
Good luck!
T