[kook]

the foot hold is still there and could probably be glued back on if someone knew what they were doing

[Bonjoy]

Actually thanks to the stabilisation work that got done i'd say the chipped hold is now one of the most solid at the crag (compared to some of the huge scars appearing about the place thanks to hold erosion.

Problems like this are bound to get broken and worn down, especially as people nowadays won't walk away from something if it is a bit wet etc. with the amount of freeze thaw that has gone on this winter its not suprising that holds are shedding.

The stand is definitely much harder now if it was 7b+ish before. i did it from a stand just after it got broken by using a fairly indestructible smear for RF just under the roof. As Dave said there are also other options for the left foot, but non look like they're as permanent as the smear. sitter will likely be back upto hard 8a/8a+ now i'd say

where as the foothold left from the snapped one is just biscuit. I'd be all for brushing the biscuit away and stabilising whats left with some sandtex. That way a classic problem might become a bit more respectable and permanent. there are quite a few other problems at this crag which would appreciate a bit of sandtex too... or we could just let them gradually wear into vienna style vulgarities and all complain how appalling it is that it has happened.

I'll do the work if no one objects too much

Go for it that man. I don't think anyone on here will complain, so long as you do a decent job. The prob with the chipped handhold was not primarily the sealing, more the unsubtle way that a big fat crimp was brushed out of the sandy rock exposed by the chipping. The application of stabiliser was also a bit slapdash but that should have weathered in now I’d imagine. Whoever sealed it probably didn’t realise the importance of bringing a rag to dab off excess sealant.

[Scouse D]

"You don't have to climb something to know how hard it is" -  Lee 'Ben Moon' Anderson

[Johnny Brown]

The stand is definitely much harder now if it was 7b+ish before.

It can't be - as Ru said the hold is about three times the size. I must just have been having a good day. It was tricky enough that I knew I wouldn't have been able to do it from sitting though, or not without a siege. It was, as they say in Arkansas, a' low-percenter'.

As slaps go, it was a technical one requiring an unusual trajectory - I can see why the strong and static might struggle, through that doesn't make it hard. The kind of move Leo would do in two goes.

[Andy Harris]

Big lad canadian Frank but do you remember his mate who’s done so much of the Peruvian he had to get a new septum?

It was John W who pulled off the intermediate, think I still have it, and maybe the bruise I got when he elbowed me on the way down.

That move was v.deceptive, v. easy to feel you were close but in reality a long way from it. I suspect this is why a number of people think its easier as they got close. Don’t really think height made a massive difference, it was being able to do the move in control and having the strength to keep yourself close to the rock at the top of the move rather than the finger strength to latch it at speed.

[Johnny Brown]

Hmm. Not having the strength, I just changed the trajectory so my CoG was moving inwards at the end of the move, not out. Once I sussed that it wasn't too bad. 7c tops.

[Jim]

can we have a big "HALAM" medal for johnny footwork
and a little one for dense

I remember the original hold being small, the new one is massive in comparison

[a dense loner]

"You don't have to climb something to know how hard it is" -  Lee 'Ben Moon' Anderson

anyone who thinks you have to climb something to have a very good idea how hard it is "is a fucking idiot", and you can quote me

[c.j.d.]

I don't think for a second that the standup used to be 7b+, that's just crack babble.

Loveley.  Bloody long haired crack whores.  '7b+' my Brad Pitt reversing arse.

I guess the bottom line seems to be that this is still a good problem, with the stand being 8a, and the sitter 8a+.  Cool.

[brad]

Hello to all
I found and brushed this line up in late 96..a few weeks later i was up there again doing a little filming of my first ascents of the new found and freshly brushed up egg boulder (i never called it that by the way, it must have been alan williams as he was the only person who handled the correspondence from this area for the new guide fax 09) john welford was trying the footless version of t crack, he couldnt do it blaming the odd flake of snow was giving poor friction, we chatted a while he offered me a cup of raspberry tea and we talked more stud in the cave of t crack looking out at the changing weather, he had just done "the bastard" at rubicon and told me also that he had just injured his hand at work with a with a heavy chain. i still have it on film somewhere.. john w popping his head around to see what i was up to filming and climbing in the snow ;0)
anyway..as we were talking i mentioned the good line id found and he seemed keen to look at it, he was the second person to lay eyes on it at that time, it was overgrown with brambles and a elder tree was all over it too.
i had that many problems to do all of rowtor to go and brush up + loads of problems at eagle tor, stanton, brads block...etc that i didnt have the time to work it and left it for another time, it turned out id left it too long as ben moon snatched it all up.
so thats the story of sweet thing

[account_inactive]

So you saw a line but didn't clean or climb it?

[brad]

i used to do it like jerry did on a bouldering video until that hold was ripped off.. i never saw the sit start

[a dense loner]

what do u mean? you never tried the sit start?

[brad]

sorry, i should correct myself...jerry moffat did it like i used to do it    the easier way id say but thats history now

i never tryed the sit start, it wernt that obvious at the time

[a dense loner]

u tried the sit start with me one day

[brad]

that must have been after ben did it then
forgive me but who can you be? 

[a dense loner]

sorry but u saying u never tried the sit start silly me thought that u meant you'd never tried the sit start

who i am is of no importance, we don't know each other we just happened to try it together one day

[account_inactive]

Even his name is a riddle 

[uptown]

Even his name is a riddle 

nowt up with me.