[tim palmer]

anyone done it?  Was shut down on saturday, might just be i am too weak (esp on 2 finger pockets) but does anyone have any magic beta?

[account_inactive]

Went to Cratcliffe the other day and think this is the problem I looked at to the right of Kaluza.  There was some obvious holds at waist height and then a good finishing hold.  I've read that it starts on undercut (not that I saw these) and is 8a.  Any beta as per Tim's request?

Cheers

[r-man]

Yes, that's Sweet Thing. Apparently a key foothold has recently broken, and it hasn't been climbed in its current state.

[Tom de Gay]

Wasn't it chipped/vandalised a few years back? Key hand hold chipped off or on?

[dave]

A hold was knocked off, then someone optimistically brushed the remainder into a hold.

[account_inactive]

I assume that effects the sit start as the top looked climbable

[cofe]

the hold that was fucked and re-fucked was the right-hand hold you chuck to the top off. SS (from memory) starts on undercuts, to a 2 finger pocket, to said-fucked hold, to top. etc.

[Johnny Brown]

That hold used to be a lovely slope, now its a huge, ugly chipped crimp. And no increase in grade 

Which foothold broke? The one you threw to the top off?

[account_inactive]

Those holds don't look like they should be on an 8a.  Foot holds would have to be terrible I would have thought

[cofe]

i've not seen it for ages. the SS used to be 8a+ or whatever back in the day, and i remember watching beasts get spanked on it. the original problem is basically a thing of the past.

[account_inactive]

Shame

[c.j.d.]

I asked about this on another thread recently.  Seems that no one is in the know.

Basically, I know that the key hold that you used to launch to the top off has gone.  This now may have been brushed back into existence (clarificartion on this anyone?).

To my knowledge, it has not been reasended in its current state.  It was a tough 8a at the time. Katz got close on the SS, but I guess what I am interested in is: is there holds, is it realistic, will it be as good, as the original move was way cool.

[account_inactive]

The holds that you go to the top from look pretty good (big that is).  As I said I didn't look at the sit start.  The holds were all covered in chalk when I walked past so someone looks to have been trying it

[nodder]

Sounds awful.

[cofe]

Katz did the sitter, pre-hold destruction.

[monkey boy]

The problem still goes, the foot hold broke that you chuck for the sloper off but there numerous other ones that can be used. Sit on an undercut and slopey crimp, pocket, fucked hold, top! Had a brief play on this when I got from Font; it was too cold and I was very unpsyched but it felt hard, definately worth at least 8a. Its easy to get the distance for the top but holding it is another matter.

[Andy Harris]

The last move was prob 8a in it's own right, a huge slap to a poor sloper. The hold that was created was significantly better than the original and looked awful. That last moves had to be one of the greatest moves there was. Put some effort in to this but it broke before I did it, gutting, such great  moves.

The start moves were always hard (7c) with bad feet.

I seem to remember it was found by Canadian Frank but done by Ben.

[kook]

don't know what the hand hold was like before it broke but in my opinion the moves are still great and its def harder to hit the top on the link now i broke the foot hold (sorry) but still possible. i heard that before the hand broke it was a bit higher which might actually have made the jump a bit easier because you're less bunched even though it was less positive, if that makes sense. i find that the starts one of those where if everything clicks it feels straight forward, if you doesn't you're landing on your arse. its cool though

[Johnny Brown]

The last move was prob 8a in it's own right, a huge slap to a poor sloper.

Hmm. That would have been my first 8a, and by far my quickest. I did it in a short session, 10 goes or something, and would have had it down as hard 7b+. Rather a difference...

The hold that was created was significantly better than the original and looked awful. That last moves had to be one of the greatest moves there was.

Agree with both of those statements. I never had any interest in doing the sitter, and I've certainly no interest in trying it now with that chipped mess.

i heard that before the hand broke it was a bit higher which might actually have made the jump a bit easier because you're less bunched even though it was less positive

Hmm. I doubt it - it was about 1/2" higher, and much worse. And lets be clear - the hold didn't break, it was vandalised.

I seem to remember it was found by Canadian Frank but done by Ben.

Wow. What a guy - such vision. Where is he now?

[carlisle slapper]

Actually thanks to the stabilisation work that got done i'd say the chipped hold is now one of the most solid at the crag (compared to some of the huge scars appearing about the place thanks to hold erosion.

Problems like this are bound to get broken and worn down, especially as people nowadays won't walk away from something if it is a bit wet etc. with the amount of freeze thaw that has gone on this winter its not suprising that holds are shedding.

The stand is definitely much harder now if it was 7b+ish before. i did it from a stand just after it got broken by using a fairly indestructible smear for RF just under the roof. As Dave said there are also other options for the left foot, but non look like they're as permanent as the smear. sitter will likely be back upto hard 8a/8a+ now i'd say

where as the foothold left from the snapped one is just biscuit. I'd be all for brushing the biscuit away and stabilising whats left with some sandtex. That way a classic problem might become a bit more respectable and permanent. there are quite a few other problems at this crag which would appreciate a bit of sandtex too... or we could just let them gradually wear into vienna style vulgarities and all complain how appalling it is that it has happened.

I'll do the work if no one objects too much

[dave]

I don't think for a second that the standup used to be 7b+, that's just crack babble.

[Stu Littlefair]

I don't think for a second that the standup used to be 7b+, that's just crack babble.

what he said. I spent a lot of time trying this the same time as ben. Could do the start every go, but never snagged that move, not even from a stand. It was at least 7c+ from standing before. Haven't been back since it broke.

I reckon some repair work would be bon. Needs to be done carefully  - the repaired crimp looked awful when first done, though I've not seen it recently.

[Ru]

The original hold was about an inch or so above the current one. It was a small crimp 4-5 mm in depth. The new hold is at least twice the size of the old one. When the problem was first done, there was a tiny intermediate ear for the left hand below the top - this snapped soon after and the problem was repeated without it. The start moves, for me at least, were significantly easier than the top move (in its old state). I'm impressed with JB thinking that this move was only 7B+, I thought it 8A and never managed it. I've not tried it in its current state, I think James did it and thought 7C+/8A and I think Mick's done it too.

[a dense loner]

to be honest i agree with johnny. i tried it years ago with brad of brads wall fame. nearly latched the top move, a lot, and i can't jump out of a bunched position. johnny however can, the top move had never seen 8a, i would have been quite happy to tick 7b+ for it, maybe 7c. i'm also quite happy to question stu and ru, the 2 shortest people at a crag on any given day, about the reasons they find a big move hard

[a dense loner]

now i've just wrote that i seem to remember brad telling me the top move was 7c. obviously this has nothing to do with the problem in its current state. it just goes to show how hazy memories are