[craig12784]

I'm relatively new to climbing. Been going for a few months and thought it was time to treat myself to a pair of shoes instead of hiring. I bought Red Chili lace ups after trying about 15 pairs on and deciding they fitted the best. Problem is, i went along to the climbing centre and was disappointed to find that the usual grip which I was used to was gone. It was as if the bottom of the shoes had been greased!
Anyway enough waffle, the question is....

Have I bought the wrong shoes?
Do I need to "wear them in"?
My climbing partner has suggested rubbing sand paper on the soles, is this a good idea?
Any other tips appreciated!
Or do i just take the £60 on the chin n get a different pair?

Thanks alot for any1 who helps!

Craig. 

[Scraggadoo]

I don't have any experience of red chilli shoes so couldn't really tell you.  Also I never hired any in the past, but might help for us to know what you are comparing to?

I have tried 3 different makes and have found them all to be roughly the same, some subtle differences I am sure you will notice.  I think they probably just needs wearing in a bit, especially as I don't find the abrasion indoors to be as much as you would get if you were outdoors.  Wouldn't bother with the sandpaper myself, the holds will do that job for you.  Another thing, even if the shoes you have are slippery, having shit ones on (in my opinion) forces you to use your feet better and your body tension as well so when your shoes start to feel like they should you should be a little better (but only a fraction!).

Someone will be along to tell you whether i'm speaking horseshit or not.   

[GCW]

I wouldn't be too worried about friction at the wall.  The technique/foot position will be far more important.

If I were you, I'd stick with the boots and learn to use your feet well.  Once this pair wears out you'll have a better idea of what boots to get next.  I wouldn't rush to spend more cash.

[craig12784]

ok thanks guys, i do work on my technique each time i go anyway but just to clarify, there's nothing i can do to improve the grip?
i no its not a race but when using the centres shoes i was almost running up the walls, now im like a snail lol n as im sure u no the longer you take the more tired you get!
cheers climbers!

[GCW]

Just use them, they'll rough up with time.

[magpie]

You probably just need to get used to them, if you've been wearing a different shoe for a while then you're bound to notice a difference.

I've been climbing in Evolvs for ages now, which are super soft, sticky rubber, and as soon as I change into my newer shoes I get spat off everything* for the first while, it just takes time to adjust to a different feel on your feet.


*no, it's not just cause I'm shite, it's the shoes 

[robertostallioni]

im sure u no the longer you take the more tired you get!

Is that like

"the faster you drive somewhere, the less time there is for accidents to happen..."?

[GCW]

the longer you take the more tired you get!

I tried that excuse on with the wife, but she didn't seem satisfied.

[soapy]

really, that's not the impression i get

[kev.]

i had a pair of red chillis and noticed they were really slippy when i first used them, this was indoors and i was a bit dissappointed, but they wore in and got sticky after a while and i got a lot of good use out of them, on the other hand i my 5.10s which have the C4 rubber felt pretty good straight out of the box. Personally i wouldnt give up on a shoe unless it was really uncomfortable.

[robertostallioni]

the longer you take the more tired you get!

I tried that excuse on with the wife, but she didn't seem satisfied.

really, that's not the impression i get

Hmmmm. I had the same experience as you Soapy, so I asked these guys.

But they were of the same opinion as us.

[craig12784]

erm ok lol
so if i did decide 2 get a new pair, and wanted them to stick to the wall like glue. Wot would you experts recommend?

[slackline]

erm ok lol
so if i did decide 2 get a new pair, and wanted them to stick to the wall like glue. Wot would you experts recommend?

Accurate spelling and grammar.

Failing that some synthetic gecko plastic.

[milksnake]

waddage to the 1st peson who can succesfully identify the gecko in the pics.

[highonair]

i hate to state the obvious but why not just buy a new pair of the ones you were hiring, nice and new nice and fresh and you can use them