[Adam Lincoln]

Too right. Video on the way?

Ill get onto it. Managed to get Bob retro first ascending it, and Nige doing it.

[Adam Lincoln]

Sorry for delay in footage, been working away this week like a dog!

[r-man]

Looking forward to it Adam. Keen to try this problem - we avoided it on Saturday because it was just too busy!

Some easier stuff from the Technical Genius area:

[Adam Lincoln]

All i did was left he camera rolling so it wont be anything special. Once i am less busy i might actually learn how to use it properly. Dam i hate working.

[dave]

good stuff r-dude. that cabin boy, and the ramp just right of it, and both aretes of that block are very good problems, as good as the main bouldering at the crag, with a couple of mats. probably 6b+, 6b, and 6a/5as respectivley.

[Baloo]

Whats the chance of any of these problems being in nick on the morrow?

[Idol eyes]

I allways tried this on the rt hand arete... tis harder than a 7 on this side... never thought of bumjoy's method...

[travs]

Firstly thanks for the list r-man. It was much appreciated and led to a good afternoon out on Saturday. We climbed most of the problems listed except for the ones over on Copenhagen wall and they are all very good. we have a few additions which should expand the list a bit, I'm sure some of these will have been climbed before :

1. 7a Crack right of Oarsman arete - climbed from the right.
2. 7b 'Pocketed' - Wall left of Hornblower - start right hand in crack of Hornblower and then up and left via mono.
3. 7a+ Sit start to Technical Genius.

[dave]

You're right, all of those have been done before. good circuit.

[r-man]

The first two have already been mentioned in this thread by Bonjoy, at 6b+ and 6c+ respectively.

If by the third you mean a sitstart using the left arete, then this saw lots of ascents on ukb day. Group consensus was 6c, but there are lots of heels and toes that make it much easier than it could be. Very good problem.

[travs]

Thanks Robin, Can't believe the wall left of HornBlower is only 6c+ though. We had a pretty strong team out and it only saw one send, have you done this yourself? There seemed to be a few projects on the go as well, have any of these been done yet?

[Ru]

The wall left of Hornblower also saw few ascents on the day that 'everyone' turned up. I found it quite conditions dependant and did it when my fingers cooled down. I wouldn't argue with a grade anywhere between 6c+ - 7a+. I.e 7a sounds about right.

[r-man]

No, I haven't done or tried either of those two on the Hornblower wall.

The wall right of Obstructive Pensioner is still a project.

[Bonjoy]

I upgraded it to V6/7a in the descriptions I sent to Grimer for the new book after seeing folk struggle with it. I'd found it a lot easier than Obstructive Pensioner (which I still haven't done), possible due to my lack of flexibility hence giving it two grades lower. It's pretty knacky and the short have to do an extra (crux?) move. Maybe 7a+ would be better. Any other grade votes on it? I think it's going in the book with the name 'Oar 'Ouse.

The Oarsman crack on its RHS sounds like the way Mark Stokes climbed the line original, based on his vague description. Stiff pull off the deck then not to bad laybacking, seemed the same difficulty as Hornblower to me, or just a touch harder. The sitter (sans block on the left) adds some really good hard moves and ups it to solid 7a I thought, maybe 7a+. The arete based version seems like a slightly easier inferior variant to me.

[Johnny Brown]

Bransby did the right-hand side of the HMS Daring arete yesterday in about 5 goes. I like to think I'd have done too if my skin hadn't been destroyed. Deadpoint to pocket in crack - 7b/+?
He also finished off my lame attempts at the left-hand finish to Gritstone Megamix (ie traverse lip of roof to arete, then up) on his first attempt. The project right of Hornblower survived though.

[Bonjoy]

7b!?! Have people's minds broken? How can the RHS of the arete resist the combined effort of a lot of climbers who have climbed a lot of >7bs, not least one Michael Adams and only be 7b?! So it's the same grade as long established peak 7bs such as T Crack, Big Al Queada, Perfect Day Direct, Mark's Roof, Rambeau, Chip Shop Brawl etc, or even bottom end 7b+s such as China in Your Hands, Desperate, The Rib, Dick Williams? I find that hard to believe. Someone's tripping on goofballs, either you boys or me, who is it?
The fact an evidently on form BB took 5 goes in itself suggests it's likely to be more than 7b.

[Jaspersharpe]

Just downgrade all that lot to 7A. That's what supposed to happen in The Peak nowadays isn't it? 

[Johnny Brown]

Ben got on it first, fannied about, I had three goes I think, hit the hold on the last go, at which point Ben abandoned his boiling Bransby sequence and adopted mine, and did it. My skin really was in an appalling state yet got me so far and why I didn't have another go when it was clearly on. Ben's method may be pocket-strength dependent but I'm pretty sure given good skin and conditions I could jump straight to the top hold at no more than 7c, it isn't the first 'desperate project' to not turn out to be that hard - Big Al Quaeda being a case in point. I can only imagine previous suitors have been confusing themselves with clever dick sequences instead of just jumping past.

[Adam Lincoln]

at which point Ben abandoned his boiling Bransby sequence

Have you been hanging around Tim Emmett lately! Boiling indeed 

Anyway, all the cool cats are saying boilingness now! 

[Johnny Brown]

Bransby has been boiling since at least 2001, I don't know when Tim picked up on the word but I suspect its more recently.

[cofe]

7b!?! Have people's minds broken? How can the RHS of the arete resist the combined effort of a lot of climbers who have climbed a lot of >7bs, not least one Michael Adams and only be 7b?! So it's the same grade as long established peak 7bs such as T Crack, Big Al Queada, Perfect Day Direct, Mark's Roof, Rambeau, Chip Shop Brawl etc, or even bottom end 7b+s such as China in Your Hands, Desperate, The Rib, Dick Williams? I find that hard to believe. Someone's tripping on goofballs, either you boys or me, who is it?
The fact an evidently on form BB took 5 goes in itself suggests it's likely to be more than 7b.

it's a scam. i've never seen bb guns and john welford in the same room at the same time.

[Percy B]

If that's 7b, then that new thing at Rhylstone can only be 8a+........

Oh, I see how the BB grading system works now. The worlds gone mad

[El Mocho]

To be honest my grading for the HMS rhs would be pretty similar to JBs suggestion. I would prob go for 7B+. On the go I did it it felt easier than the left side but I don't think that means it is actually easier. All I did was to think in my mind "I am the best, my footwork is imacculate, I never fail, I am the strongest" and it felt easy. Obviously all my naming energy is elsewhere at the moment but I'll take one of the rejects from the rhylstone thing.

Gritstone Megamix LH prob 7a/7a+ - a grade or so harder than the original. Gritstone Mashupmix?

[grimer]

You'd hane done it on the left if only you'd microwaved your chalk.

[David S]

Gritstone Magimix maybe Ben?