[Three Nine]

No that's clearly bullshit, as if you're tired and can't do anywhere near your current max hang, then you can't be recruiting very much.

[mctrials23]

To get stronger you must be pushing the muscle to its limit so I would imagine that doing this type of exercise when tired would not result in any gains but would instead set your recovery back.

[a dense loner]

if, for instance, i was sad enough to do 2 finger sessions in a day. my 1st one would always be crimping and my 2nd  open-handed. this is the only way to do it. i have no science to back this up but it is the truth

[dave]

[account_inactive]

No that's clearly bullshit, as if you're tired and can't do anywhere near your current max hang, then you can't be recruiting very much.

Well fuck you very much. 


So a power session on crimps at the Tor would stop you from maximal recruitment on pockets or pinches?  It's very rare (for me anyway) to be that tired in the fingers on every possible grip type. 

[Stubbs]

So a power session on crimps at the Tor would stop you from maximal recruitment on pockets or pinches?  It's very rare (for me anyway) to be that tired in the fingers on every possible grip type. 

Been well into this at the wall in the last few months - doing a normal 2-2.5 hr sesh on the boards which involves mostly pinching and crimping and then doing half an hours fingerboarding to finish off, all pockets and open handed stuff, can definitely feel the benefit.

[account_inactive]

I was going to also bang on about how deadhanging strengthens connective tissue and can also be used to train the Golgi tendon...........