[Probes]

Just interested in opinions. I've a cellar board that is about 60deg, and every hold on it appears easier to crimp than hang open handed. Ive spent hours trying to create woodies for this, but ive not found the holy grail yet, any ideas? Im sure its down to the angle of the board. by way obviously mono's and shallow pockets work.

[GCW]

I may be wrong, but surely you can open hand anything if you're strong enough?
As you say, it's often easier to crimp things, so you just need to force yourself to avoid crimping.
I've noticed some people almost always open hand in preference.

[nik at work]

I'd agree. The open hand or crimp is down to the climber as much as the hold.

[mini]

We got some slopers from Bleaustone that are designed specifically for steep boards (we have them on a 45 degree board). No chance of crimping them blighters!

[dave]

theres a lot of crimpy holds that would be uberoncomfortable to drag i recon.

I think the problem with making your own wooding holds for openhanding is the surface has less grip than resin holds so you've got a lot less scope as far as getting them exactly right. I'd go for some basic striaght rung-type holds with a very generous radius on the edge for comfort, err on side of too slopey to start with, then keep sanding them down at the back and re-trying them until you've got something good. also the same hold will be pretty tempting to crimp so you've got to have some self control. pretty much the only way you can make an uncrimpable hold is to make them pocket slots which physically impede the knucking-up necessary for a crimp grip. this will be a ballache using wood, just set a rule and stick to it.

[account_inactive]

Pretty much every indoor hold can be pinched

[tobym]

I tend to open hand everything, as my fingers are too short, and my thenar eminences too fat, to crimp. I physically can't crimp. (But then I can't climb hard, either, )

[Probes]

Yeah it is your choice i gues, but would like when thrashing about to not have to start forcing myself to open hand stuff. I aint no slouch when it comes to open handed stuff but there is prob 1 hold that is 50/50 crimp/open effort wise, the rest are blatently easier to crimp/pinch, even the bloody slopers. Might give the bleu stones alook. The fiddling with rung idea sounds good.

[Probes]

mini, do you know what bleustones they are?

[Dr T]

mini, do you know what bleustones they are?

I think you'll find they're called 45 degree slopers

I have some....

[Probes]

mini, do you know what bleustones they are?

I think you'll find they're called 45 degree slopers

I have some....

  im havin those.

[IanP]

I'd agree. The open hand or crimp is down to the climber as much as the hold.

According to http://www.athlon.com.au/articles/r&i_dodgyelbow.pdf

'Two groups of people crimp:
beginners—because it feels
stronger—and those who never
grew out of it.'

As somebody who crimps all the time who am I to argue 

[mini]

mini, do you know what bleustones they are?

I think you'll find they're called 45 degree slopers

I have some....

Them are they.

[Houdini]

Crimping IS stronger, as you utilise the strongest digit: the thumb.

[Eddies]

Crimping IS stronger, as you utilise the strongest digit: the thumb.

Thumb is a swear word at our wall... right Mini?
Stricktly no thumbs on slopers. (unless, like me you can hide your dirty habit and crimp slopers without your mates seeing!  )

[Krank]

Thumb is a swear word at our wall... right Mini?
Stricktly no thumbs on slopers. (unless, like me you can hide your dirty habit and crimp slopers without your mates seeing!  )

I always see.

The slopers are very very nice though.

[chriss]

On a bit of a side note I'm looking for some slopers for our 45 degree board, what are good ones to go for apart from the obvous Bleaustone babies?

[Jaspersharpe]

'Two groups of people crimp:
beginners—because it feels
stronger—and those who never
grew out of it.'

Horse shit.

As somebody who crimps all the time who am I to argue 

I do too.

[dave]

i'd love to see one of these prophets of openhanding tackle, without crimping, things like caviar, pump up the power, walk on by, mur de lamentations, bain de sang etc etc etc.

openhanding by choice is all very well indoors where you've got a choice, but in the real world it doesn't always work like that.

[philo]

yeah its preference, i open hand almost everything with my thumb pressed to the wall or side of the hold, automatic-drag-syndrome i guess as i am forever getting yelled at to crimp that mofo hold

[Paul B]

i'd love to see one of these prophets of openhanding tackle, without crimping, things like caviar, pump up the power, walk on by, mur de lamentations, bain de sang etc etc etc.

I think in general on steep boards most things crimp up quite well, Carlisle Slapper pretty much agreed even on his jumped up fingerboard that he and Ned use as a steep board. You can almost always get your thumb on as well indoors whereas outdoors this isn't usually the case!
I've only just become aware of how much specialising in one grip type can limit you. To all you crimpers out there learn how to drag because someday you WILL need it.

[Probes]

Coor this site is fast approaching ukc for blind rage and an argument for the sake of having nowt better to do (not that thats a bad thing).
Update for anyone as sad as me... ive concluded i am right, everything goes as a crimp on a board at 60deg, if you think otherwise your just a dafty, but applying a moments thought ive stuck some small volumes on and hey presto.. open handers gallore!